F-150 back end a little bouncy after leveling kit install

[SixD9R]

Hey guys- Over the winter I installed a leveling kit and bigger tires on my 2016 F-150. I'm pretty happy with the way it looks and rides overall. One thing that I have been noticing lately though is if I hit a nice dip in the road at highway speed the back end seems pretty loose and bouncy (is that even a word lol). Other than the leveling kit and tires, the truck is completely stock. I'm thinking maybe upgrading the rear shocks might do the trick but was wondering if you F-150 guys have had any similar experiences and if you did what you did to resolve it?

I was browsing Summit Racing and was looking at these 2 possible options. A little pricey but i know it's possible to spend even more.. The Rancho's are adjustable so I consider than to be an advantage. What do you think?

 

[rivermobster]

I can't tell you much about your truck, my F150 was an 86.

But I can tell you...

Rancho's are the worst shocks Ever! LoL

Go with Bilstein's at least.

 

[Dalton]

100 bucks a shock is pricey?

Blistein is the way to go


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[OldSchoolBoats]

Bilstein all day.

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[Pivot]

Shocks are toast. Fyi, when buying a f150 the FX4 has a 'upgrade' shock. Not great but better.
100 per shock seem cheap to me

 

[azsunfun]

believe monroe makes a coil over.

 

[rivermobster]

believe monroe makes a coil over.

I guess I'll have to correct myself...

Monroe makes the worst shocks Ever.

Monroe also makes Rancho's...

Go figure.

 

[SixD9R]

Thanks for the replies gents. I was also concerned about the Rancho’s but was interested in the adjustable feature.
Some of you must have a lot more money that I do lol. I was thinking the prices were high on the 2 examples I posted compared to others I saw on Summit Racing.
I’ll be driving the truck from Pa to Florida in July and want the truck to ride and handle well.

 

[Guest06]

If you can find them, i did Fox’s on my 2500 and they really ended up making a big difference. But about 550-600$ for all 4.

 

[Riverbound]

Bilstein 5100 other options are not much better than what came factory.

 

[pronstar]

Bilstein yellows were way too bouncy in the rear of our suburban.

Fox 2.0, $150/pair, calmed it right down.

Still running Bilstein yellows up front.
But it bothers my OCD so will be putting Fox 2.0 coilovers there soon.


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[Runs2rch]

Bilstein yellows were way too bouncy in the rear of our suburban.

Fox 2.0, $150/pair, calmed it right down.

Still running Bilstein yellows up front.
But it bothers my OCD so will be putting Fox 2.0 coilovers there soon.


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Hahaha I am the same way.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Thanks for the replies gents. I was also concerned about the Rancho’s but was interested in the adjustable feature.
Some of you must have a lot more money that I do lol. I was thinking the prices were high on the 2 examples I posted compared to others I saw on Summit Racing.
I’ll be driving the truck from Pa to Florida in July and want the truck to ride and handle well.

Bilsteins...

but for the bounce..... what psi are you running in the rear tires? Im guessing its too full for the load and why its bouncy feeling.

 

[CLdrinker]

If you want a nice ride get this setup.
I just put some Falcons on my Jeep and they make the Fox’s I took off seem like junk.

But if you think $100 is expensive...

 

[Uncle Dave]

If you need adjustability go with the higher end Bilsteins.

My ranchos lasted a whopping 40K.
If the shocks are red and white run from sight....

5100's are the price performance winner.

 

[Badchoices03]

Play with the air pressure in your tires...if you are running a larger tire at full air pressure, with no load...it will feel a lot more "bouncy" then your stock setup was.

 

[SixD9R]

Bilsteins...

but for the bounce..... what psi are you running in the rear tires? Im guessing its too full for the load and why its bouncy feeling.

Haha I actually had to go check. They all have 38-39 in them, max is 65 per the sidewall. Actually seems to be on the lower side? Based on the way it feels, I think it’s more the shocks than anything. For 2 bills I’m willing to give that a try.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Haha I actually had to go check. They all have 38-39 in them, max is 65 per the sidewall. Actually seems to be on the lower side? Based on the way it feels, I think it’s more the shocks than anything. For 2 bills I’m willing to give that a try.

Drop them bad boys down to 35 with little to no load in the bed. Are they D or E rated tires? (it used to be D rated tires were only 65 PSI but that has seemed to change in recent years). Not sure if itll sure your ride comfort but it will prolong the life of your tire.

 

[BigAl96]

Your factory shocks are over-extended and aren't valved correctly for your ride height. Look into either the fox or icon rear shocks for your truck and make sure to get the longer ones designed for a 1.5-3 inch level

Ford F150, F250, Ranger, Bronco & Toyota Tacoma, 4Runner Parts | Stage3 Motorsports

www.stage3motorsports.com

 

[boatdoc55]

I don't know didilly shit about shocks but that's a nice looking truck!!!

 

[pronstar]

Haha I actually had to go check. They all have 38-39 in them, max is 65 per the sidewall. Actually seems to be on the lower side? Based on the way it feels, I think it’s more the shocks than anything. For 2 bills I’m willing to give that a try.

I have E-rated MT tires on my Silverado half ton.

35 psi gives me 900 lbs over my axle ratings…so there’s plenty of capacity in reserve.

Load inflation tables will give you info on capacity for any given psi [emoji106]

Here’s one from Toyo…they’re the same for all tiremakers, so just lookup your tire size/rating regardless of who makes the tire. These specs are identical industry-wide.

https://www.toyotires.com/media/2155/2017_commercial_loadandinflation_tables.pdf

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[Nanu/Nanu]

Does this happen more frequently or is this more exaggerated when you listen to hip hop on your radio?

My thought would be your truck likes twerking. Just my $.02.

 

[Springfield]

Fox’s on my F150

 

[Lavey5150]

I had those adjustable Ranchos on my F-150 for a while, I liked them, great adjustability for towing or having three Motos in the back or none at all. They eventually died from the elements and abuse.I put some Rough Country ordered direct Work just fine. They were the only 6 inch lift shocks available 6 months ago during "chinavirus" your not Bryce Menzies, remember

 

[SixD9R]

Your factory shocks are over-extended and aren't valved correctly for your ride height. Look into either the fox or icon rear shocks for your truck and make sure to get the longer ones designed for a 1.5-3 inch level

Ford F150, F250, Ranger, Bronco & Toyota Tacoma, 4Runner Parts | Stage3 Motorsports

www.stage3motorsports.com

I lifted the front, not the back. If anything I would think the back would be slightly lower since the CG shifted to the the rear a little. If I’m wrong on that, let me know.
Also, I’ve been working from home since the China virus so if I’m driving the truck I’m usually carrying something in the bed.

 

[SixD9R]

Back again- so are you guys thinking that lower tire pressure like 35 would be better? It’s only 3-4 psi lower than they are now. I find it hard to believe that would make much difference. Plus if the back end feels loose, wouldn’t higher pressure result in a stiffer tire and tighter handling? School me if I have it all wrong. Thanks!

 

[Bowtiepower00]

Look at the toyo load inflation table linked above, and do a chalk test. 30-35 PSI should be plenty. I ran 40-45f and 30-35r on my Ram 2500 with 5k front end weight and 3500 rear weight. You are significantly lighter than that. If that doesn’t work do the bilstiens or fox shocks

 

[SixD9R]

Look at the toyo load inflation table linked above, and do a chalk test. 30-35 PSI should be plenty. I ran 40-45f and 30-35r on my Ram 2500 with 5k front end weight and 3500 rear weight. You are significantly lighter than that. If that doesn’t work do the bilstiens or fox shocks

I know this is probably a dumb question but what’s a chalk test?

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

Pretty simple. Go push down on your back bumper. If it bounce more than once before settling you need shocks. Even stand on it and jump down. It should go down, back up and stay. If it goes down and bounces a couple times before it stops you need shocks. 2-5 psi in the tires isnt going to do shit but band-aid the effect!!

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

Not to mention.. running a tire that "suggest" 60psi(example) at 30-35psi is going to kill the life of the tire. Outside tread is going to wear quicker than the middle from cupping. Run 50psi on a tire that suggests 35psi is going to wear out the center faster then the outsides. The suggested psi is in collaboration with the tire to run flat on the ground. Too much psi wears the center, not enough psi wears the outsides. Jmo

 

[JD D05]

Been said a lot already. A good valved shock for your truck and you will be good. Fox at a minimum.

 

[JD D05]

Back again- so are you guys thinking that lower tire pressure like 35 would be better? It’s only 3-4 psi lower than they are now. I find it hard to believe that would make much difference. Plus if the back end feels loose, wouldn’t higher pressure result in a stiffer tire and tighter handling? School me if I have it all wrong. Thanks!

I run really low pressure in my vehicles just above where they don't vibrate when braking hard

 

[CLdrinker]

Not to mention.. running a tire that "suggest" 60psi(example) at 30-35psi is going to kill the life of the tire. Outside tread is going to wear quicker than the middle from cupping. Run 50psi on a tire that suggests 35psi is going to wear out the center faster then the outsides. The suggested psi is in collaboration with the tire to run flat on the ground. Too much psi wears the center, not enough psi wears the outsides. Jmo

You are wrong about the air pressure and tire wear.
A 35” tire with a 65psi rating maxed out to 65psi, has a much different foot print depending on if it’s on a 1 ton diesel or a f150.
If this was a factory wheel and tire setup I could understand your point.
But jumping on the back bumper is spot on.

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

You are wrong about the air pressure and tire wear.
A 35” tire with a 65psi rating maxed out to 65psi, has a much different foot print depending on if it’s on a 1 ton diesel or a f150.
If this was a factory wheel and tire setup I could understand your point.
But jumping on the back bumper is spot on.

I would agree if you air the tires up to psi off the vehicle, and then bolt them on. But while on the vehicle is what I'm talking about. Most tires have a "suggested" run psi and a "max" psi. But everyone has their own opinion. Tires are built to keep the tread flat at a certain psi. And if it's a radial running to low of pressure will waer the cords out quicker also. Jmo

 

[CLdrinker]

I would agree if you air the tires up to psi off the vehicle, and then bolt them on. But while on the vehicle is what I'm talking about. Most tires have a "suggested" run psi and a "max" psi. But everyone has their own opinion. Tires are built to keep the tread flat at a certain psi. And if it's a radial running to low of pressure will waer the cords out quicker also. Jmo

Amount of weight changes changes the foot print. If you have Jeep that weighs 4000lb and a 1ton diesel that weighs 7500lb. That will change how much pressure is on the tire.

everyone has their opinion but I did go to a 3 day tire school when I was a salesman back in the day...

 

[pronstar]

I would agree if you air the tires up to psi off the vehicle, and then bolt them on. But while on the vehicle is what I'm talking about. Most tires have a "suggested" run psi and a "max" psi. But everyone has their own opinion. Tires are built to keep the tread flat at a certain psi. And if it's a radial running to low of pressure will waer the cords out quicker also. Jmo

Load inflation tables don’t specify psi that compromises the tire [emoji106]

I got over 40k on the last set of E-rated tires (80psi max) tires on my half-ton truck. Ran them at 35 psi. Even wear across the tread, I posted about it a while back. Still had 5/32nds of tread left IIRC

Also, tires don’t come with recommended pressures beyond max, for the rated capacity of the tire.

Vehicles, on the other hand, come with a recommended tire psi that’s applicable to the OEM tire.


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[Flying_Lavey]

I would agree if you air the tires up to psi off the vehicle, and then bolt them on. But while on the vehicle is what I'm talking about. Most tires have a "suggested" run psi and a "max" psi. But everyone has their own opinion. Tires are built to keep the tread flat at a certain psi. And if it's a radial running to low of pressure will waer the cords out quicker also. Jmo

Tires can be put on ANYTHING that have different weights and uses and all. That is why there is only a MAX psi rating and not a minimum PSI rating. No matter what tire is on the truck, the door sticker with the suggested PSI is what should be used for empty or light load situations as that is based on the vehicle weight. Not the tire maximum ratings.

I know this is probably a dumb question but what’s a chalk test?

Put chalk all the way across the tire pretty heavy and drive the truck a short distance. Depending on if there is any chalk left and if so, what the pattern is will tell you if your tires are over or under inflated.

 

[SixD9R]

Hey guys- just updating this thread.

Thanks again for the info!

I installed the Bilstein’s in the photo of the OP and the truck is definitely riding better and I have better control. I drove it about 50 miles on the highway yesterday didn’t feel the bounce I was getting with the OEM shocks.

The truck only has 43K miles so I’m not sure if the originals were shot or just sorry. I tried comparing the compression and rebound of the Bilstein’s to the factory units off the truck and there was a very noticeable difference as the Bilstein’s were much stiffer.