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First time I've held a TIG torch in 5 years.....

lbhsbz

Putting on the brakes
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I was never great at it....had a job tonight where it was kinda the only option. I pushed shit outta the way on the bench, hit the bench with a flap wheel to freshen it up a bit lol....and ran a short bead....on the bench...yep, still got it (at least as good as I had it before). Looked around a bit for my box of collets/tungstens and couldn't find it, so I cleaned up the tungsten that was in the torch (too big, no idea what kind cuz the paint mark is gone) and found a couple pieces of like .045 filler bent around the garage door that I'd been using to hang calipers that I paint because I can't find where I put all my filler rod either.....and here we go...

Project in question is a set of old ass Dunlop calipers from some '60s Jag, these things are like 1 or 2 year only....pistons are all pitted to hell with bad chrome, so I had to improvise. There is a feature in the piston that locks into the brake pad that is very necessary, so I can't just throw in a different piston that fits. There's also a pin in the casting that engages in another feature in the back side of the piston....I'm unsure of it's purpose, but I'd like to maintain it if I can. MGB pistons are the same diameter...and I've got lots of those, so we'll try to make that work.

Open up the inside of the MGB pistons a bit, bore a hole through the bottom of 'em, face down the bottom surface some, then shorten the original pistons a bit and turn those down to fit in the MGB pistons. Simple....right? lol.

Most outfits that sleeve brake hydraulic cylinders use loctite 680 or something similar...which is good to 300°F. That doesn't sound like a temp range I'd like to attach my name to, so I did it a bit differently.

I figure the caliper bore is bare iron and it survives just fine when it full of fluid and without air, so bare steel should be just fine too....in the area of the weldment.

Maintained the chrome on the critical parts of the piston....should work, first one tested good with no leaks, 2 more pistons to go.
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Like new…sorta

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lbhsbz

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Cool. Distortion bad?
Distortion? They still fit in the holes, so distortion is....insignificant? Insignificant enough at least lol.

Edit....my eyes are shot by about dinner time, I can't see a damn thing detail wise after 12 hours of being awake. I should really do my welding in the morning....would likely turn out a lot better.
 

monkeyswrench

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That's slick. I think I'd trust a weld more than Loc-tite.
Looks good!
 

scottchbrite

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Distortion? They still fit in the holes, so distortion is....insignificant? Insignificant enough at least lol.

Edit....my eyes are shot by about dinner time, I can't see a damn thing detail wise after 12 hours of being awake. I should really do my welding in the morning....would likely turn out a lot better.
New helmet might help if it’s an old generic one. The new tech is amazingly clear. I’ve also started using a pair of 1.5 magnifier spectacles. Getting old sucks
 

lbhsbz

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That's slick. I think I'd trust a weld more than Loc-tite.
Looks good!
The loc tite retaining compound (same stuff used for bearing races that don't fit tight in the bore anymore) is more or less designed for this sort of application, and would probably work pretty good here....if applied correctly. I've seen plenty of sleeves leak though, and would rather not take the chance. The way to make them not leak is to cut OD grooves and ID grooves that match up in the mating parts so that the retaining compound can form sort of O-rings as well as just act like glue....that's a pain in the ass and requires more measuring and tool grinding than I have the patience for at the moment.
 

Spudsbud

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Its been 11 years for me since full retirement. I shutter to think.......
 
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