boatsnhoes
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- Joined
- Jul 28, 2020
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Yes, it runs directly through the transom creating this kink. Are you saying you run the push lock hose by connecting to the fuel connector on the engine then run though the throttle cable area? My cable to come though a different hole off to the side of engine. Do you have picture by chance?Problem is with the rigging on the boat. Look at your throttle and shift cables too. You can hard line to the pump. The only fuel line I use anymore is the 3/8 push lock hose from parker.
It is indeed too short and is getting replaced, but the issue remains the same with a longer hose, it kinks when in the upward position. I am looking for solutions as to what others have done to help with the issue. I've tried using a 90 degree barb off short hose but did not work well either. I am not having issues with this, its more preventative so its not always kinked - the old hose cracked due this.From this picture the cables and hose looks too short by a lot. Definitely a rigging problem and not a fuel connector problem.
Everything looks pulled tight and up. Can you post a picture of where it goes into the boat? You see the throttle cables should be resting in those holes.It is indeed too short and is getting replaced, but the issue remains the same with a longer hose, it kinks when in the upward position. I am looking for solutions as to what others have done to help with the issue. I've tried using a 90 degree barb off short hose but did not work well either. I am not having issues with this, its more preventative so its not always kinked - the old hose cracked due this.
Best pic I have at the moment and I circled as you can see. This is in the trailering position, it of course levels out when in operation.Everything looks pulled tight and up. Can you post a picture of where it goes into the boat? You see the throttle cables should be resting in those holes.
I see, I see. That's going to be tough.Best pic I have at the moment and I circled as you can see. This is in the trailering position, it of course levels out when in operation.
I know - that's why I'm here lol.I see, I see. That's going to be tough.
hahaI know - that's why I'm here lol.
The fuel line is marine grade from west marine…It wasn’t clamped yet because this was before I purged the lines and put a hose clamp on it. Do you have anything productive to help the original question?Better quality fuel line should not kink. That fuel line looks like that cheap crap. And why isn't there some kind of clamp on that fitting over the hose? If You end up with an air leak at that connection you'll smoke that motor
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I get it and the rigging isn’t the best just what I inherited from previous owner. It’s going to Lavey next month for a full restoration and the transom is A1 on the list for many reasons.Either that or re rig the boat so the fuel line and cables don't turn a 90゚ when you tilt the motor. I've been rigging outboards to boats longer than you've been alive and that don't look like a good rigging job.
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You have a picture of the transom bracket of your boat? The 2 you posted looks like the engine is WAY too close for a Sebring. Pushing the motor back from the transom would most definitely help your rigging issue along with increasing your performance by moving the CG back and freeing up the boat.I get it and the rigging isn’t the best just what I inherited from previous owner. It’s going to Lavey next month for a full restoration and the transom is A1 on the list for many reasons.
Do you have any pics of what your referring to in running directly to the fuel line with no connector? At this point maybe not a big deal since the boat is getting re-rigged in the near future.
That crossed my mind as well. Here’s a few pics for you:You have a picture of the transom bracket of your boat? The 2 you posted looks like the engine is WAY too close for a Sebring. Pushing the motor back from the transom would most definitely help your rigging issue along with increasing your performance by moving the CG back and freeing up the boat.
That helps a lot more. The bracket looks ok. But, I think those control cable penetrations should be on the vertical portion of the transom and not the angled top part. Might want to talk to Chris about being able to relocate them when its getting work done.That crossed my mind as well. Here’s a few pics for you:
That’s a good idea. They are rebuilding the entire transom so I will definitely talk with them about relocating the fuel line but I’m sure he will already want to do so lol.That helps a lot more. The bracket looks ok. But, I think those control cable penetrations should be on the vertical portion of the transom and not the angled top part. Might want to talk to Chris about being able to relocate them when its getting work done.
Also, why the torque tamer on the skeg? Without a low water pick-up, you cant run that engine high enough for it to really do anything.
I’m definitely looking to get a higher grade fuel line and will se if I can find some fire rated ones. The consensus seems to be running the fuel line from one side of the transom to the engineTemporarily, I’d put a 90 on the fitting and have the fuel line exit to one side or the other and make a reasonably sized loop.
The only line I use any more is the fire rated $2.50/ft heavy wall stuff. I’m not sure I could kink it if I tried to link it.
Or use the heavy fuel line and add a big loop down below so the line can slide in and out of the rigging hole as you trim and turn
More awesome idea I just had…I’m definitely looking to get a higher grade fuel line and will se if I can find some fire rated ones. The consensus seems to be running the fuel line from one side of the transom to the engine![]()
Damn that would probably work perfect.More awesome idea I just had…
get something like this and change out the o-rings to NBR or something that can deal with fuel…screw one into the fitting at the cowl.
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