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GM gurus - drive cycles / monitors not ready

pronstar

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Im having trouble getting my 2015 Silverado 5.3 inspected. I haven’t done anything to the truck but over the course of a year (since my last inspection) my monitors are showing not ready.

IMG_0450.jpeg


This happened last year, but i was able to get them going by following this drive-cycle procedure:

But now, I’ve put two drive cycles on it and still no luck. Any insight into what i can do?

Can HP Tuners override these “not ready” indicators so i can get this truck to pass the OBDII test?

Any insight you can share is most appreciated…
 

NicPaus

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My 2015 Duramax was a pain. Brought it to dealer for recall and they disconnected batteries. Had to drive it to the river and back.

The guy gave me a printout on what to do. Had to drive 65 for a certain time. Then let off gas and decelerate to 10mph several times without hitting the brakes. Not safe to do in LA. But I did it on Rice road at 1 am on drive out.
 

monkeyswrench

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HP can do it, but is the truck stock? I believe all those sensors showing "not ready" are on the same branch, and get their ground from a bolt on the rear passenger head...just below the heater fittings that may or may not leak.
Are those sensors reading at all? Don't know if you have access to live data.
 

Sharky

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Question. . . .

Is it really hot where you live? Like in the 100's?

Vehicle may not be cooling down enough over night to run some monitors. FUE & EVAP come to mind.
 

gqchris

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I just went thru this brother and I tapped out and just registered it in Arizona. Could never get my monitors to ready. Everyone swears there is some" voodoo tap your belly dance three times and tap three time with your feet" routine that works, but I could never master that riddle! 😂
 

was thatguy

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Any required drive cycles should be easily accomplished in short time.
There’s something else preventing data logging it seems?
 

MySchi

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I've had this exact issue. Test your battery and see if it's holding enough voltage. A weak battery will not run some of your emissions monitors.
 

ChrisV

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Question. . . .

Is it really hot where you live? Like in the 100's?

Vehicle may not be cooling down enough over night to run some monitors. FUE & EVAP come to mind.
This. It needs multiple heat cycles. Meaning it needs to cool down to a certain temp.
 

pronstar

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HP can do it, but is the truck stock? I believe all those sensors showing "not ready" are on the same branch, and get their ground from a bolt on the rear passenger head...just below the heater fittings that may or may not leak.
Are those sensors reading at all? Don't know if you have access to live data.
Truck is 100% stock.
I think i can read live data, i’ll check it out and report back…

i’ll check the ground also
 

pronstar

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Question. . . .

Is it really hot where you live? Like in the 100's?

Vehicle may not be cooling down enough over night to run some monitors. FUE & EVAP come to mind.

I put a drive cycle in it this morning, it was 85 degrees and truck sat overnight, 12+ hours
 

pronstar

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I've had this exact issue. Test your battery and see if it's holding enough voltage. A weak battery will not run some of your emissions monitors.
Edit:
It’s four years old, i’m gonna check it and ground
 
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pronstar

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Bigger question:
i’ve done nothing but drive this truck for the last year, never disconnected the battery. Why would the monitors not be ready?

i’m thinking it could be battery or ground…
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I just went thru this brother and I tapped out and just registered it in Arizona. Could never get my monitors to ready. Everyone swears there is some" voodoo tap your belly dance three times and tap three time with your feet" routine that works, but I could never master that riddle! 😂

How many burnouts did you do?
 

77charger

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Never done anything special for drive cycles just drive around town doing normal runs and it will get all but evap.Now evap when i rarely dorve my truck it would take months sometimes.Over 86 degrees it wont run the test over 3/4 or under1/4 it wont run test.It is the hardest one to get ready but it is or was the only monitor that didnt have to be ready for emissions test.
 

Chili Palmer

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My son had the same issue with his 07 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3, box stock. He replaced the O2 sensors, no good, he did multiple drive cycles, no good, he disconnected the battery, no good. He paid his registration, but couldn’t get a sticker until he passed smog. In the meantime ended up selling the truck privately and had to get a bootleg smog cert to get the registration current before he sold it. Good luck.
 

pronstar

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Time out...

Vehicles in Texas have to be smog checked??? 😱
OBDII check, no rollers or sniffers

worst case i’ll register it at my nieces place in san antonio, Bexar county doesn’t do smog checks
 

Sharky

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OBDII check, no rollers or sniffers

worst case i’ll register it at my nieces place in san antonio, Bexar county doesn’t do smog checks
Try a different scan tool. See if it has the same information.
 

rivermobster

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OBDII check, no rollers or sniffers

worst case i’ll register it at my nieces place in san antonio, Bexar county doesn’t do smog checks

That's how it should be everywhere. But still, it's a smog check.

I had no idea.
 

Sharky

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That's how it should be everywhere. But still, it's a smog check.

I had no idea.
In CO, if it passes the OBD test for running monitors, its called a fast pass. You are in & out.

Otherwise, it goes on the dyno. If it passes the dyno but not the OBD monitors, it still passes. As long as visual & no check engine light.

At least the CO dept. of health understands that some vehicles are not driven much and monitors may not have run. Dyno will tell what's actually coming out the tail pipe.
 

Sharky

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Another question for pronstar. . . any DTC's?? Including U codes?

Some aftermarket scan tools will not show communication codes. U codes.

If you have certain DTC's or U-Codes, monitors may not run. Even a simple DTC for one issue may cause multiple monitors to not run.
 

pronstar

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Another question for pronstar. . . any DTC's?? Including U codes?

Some aftermarket scan tools will not show communication codes. U codes.

If you have certain DTC's or U-Codes, monitors may not run. Even a simple DTC for one issue may cause multiple monitors to not run.
no codes
same indications are shown on two different scan tools

I bought a new battery and will install it tonight, and i’ll also check the grounds on the head.
 

lbhsbz

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I went through this on a Jeep TJ recently....and my research led me to a few key things that could
OBDII check, no rollers or sniffers

worst case i’ll register it at my nieces place in san antonio, Bexar county doesn’t do smog checks
You should move back to CA....they don't give a shit if you register your car or not.

After my truck was stolen in 2019 and the stupid insurance company reported it to the DMV as a salvage...I couldn't get it sorted out and get new stickers until about 8 months ago. Drove it daily, never an issue lol.
 

pronstar

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HP can do it, but is the truck stock? I believe all those sensors showing "not ready" are on the same branch, and get their ground from a bolt on the rear passenger head...just below the heater fittings that may or may not leak.
Are those sensors reading at all? Don't know if you have access to live data.
I do have access to live data…how do i check this?
 

rivermobster

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no codes
same indications are shown on two different scan tools

I bought a new battery and will install it tonight, and i’ll also check the grounds on the head.

Call me in an hour or so.
 

77charger

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That's how it should be everywhere. But still, it's a smog check.

I had no idea.
Az my 2500 hits the rollers no obd check just a sniffer. 6.0 gasser I’m not sure what they would do if cel is lighted up. But I could reset it before and it may still pass sniffer. I have a tuned blackbear ecu and the results are cleaner than with the stock ecu 🤔

1/2 tons get obd check only.
 

Sharky

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no codes
same indications are shown on two different scan tools

I bought a new battery and will install it tonight, and i’ll also check the grounds on the head.
Also check one of the main body grounds. Its buried behind the plastic inner splash shield (inner fender) on the right (passenger side). Just behind the wheel, under the cab. About where the fire wall is.

It's a common problem.
 

monkeyswrench

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I do have access to live data…how do i check this?
On the live data stuff, it will usually have supplied and signal voltages. Usually I'll scan through them looking for stuff that makes no sense...zeroes tend to be bad. Was this the same truck that had tranny issues a few weeks ago? If so, check the harness where it drops towards the rear. It may have gotten pinched, or a ground messed with.
 

pronstar

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On the live data stuff, it will usually have supplied and signal voltages. Usually I'll scan through them looking for stuff that makes no sense...zeroes tend to be bad. Was this the same truck that had tranny issues a few weeks ago? If so, check the harness where it drops towards the rear. It may have gotten pinched, or a ground messed with.
here’s what i see for 02 sensors and evap
i’m not sure what the other not-ready sensors are, so i don’t know where to look for live data in the app

the short term fuel trim for one bank was N/A, then it flashed some values for like a second then went back to N/A

IMG_0454.png
IMG_0453.png
 

pronstar

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fuel system is closed loop so that’s good

IMG_0455.png
 

monkeyswrench

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Honestly, I'd start by unplugging and plugging back in your left downstream 02, or looking at it and seeing if the wires were twisted to remove it at some point .
 

Eliminator21vdrive

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HP can do it, but is the truck stock? I believe all those sensors showing "not ready" are on the same branch, and get their ground from a bolt on the rear passenger head...just below the heater fittings that may or may not leak.
Are those sensors reading at all? Don't know if you have access to live data.
It would have codes
 

Eliminator21vdrive

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I've had poor connections that would complete the circuit for initial key on, and fall away or be intermittent at start up. Technically speaking, the vehicle showing no down stream 02's should be throwing immediate codes.
Should show up in comprehensive component monitors=open/short or out of range.
 

monkeyswrench

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Should show up in comprehensive component monitors=open/short or out of range.
It may depend on what software/hardware is being used? Using the types that datalog was an eye opener for me...stuff looked great, even ran great, but you'd see all kinds of hiccups in the graph.
 

pronstar

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Since my registration is due, i’m gonna register it at my niece’s place in San Antonio, Bexar County has no smog requirement.

We have a family AirBnb on Canyon Lake (near San Antonio) for the next 4 days so the timing works out, as i need to have the truck inspected there.

This will give me some time to figure out what the dealio is with the truck.
 

pronstar

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Here’s my plan:
Get hp tuners and learn the system a bit.

Then I can disable AFM/DOD on both trucks in the programming, and i should be able to sell the Range AFM disablers i currently have (they plug into the obdII port) for around $100/each.

And then i can figure out how to eliminate the 50-100rpm slip that GM programs into these torque converters when locked-up.

And finally, i can disable the monitors reporting “not ready” signals for my inspection next year.
 

pronstar

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So got it inspected in Be at country where my niece lives, no issue there.

But driving home, i pulled into a tiny gas station parking lot, didn’t see a 3’ concrete pole, and fucking turned right into it
☹️
IMG_0481.jpeg
 

SBMech

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Pron,

Disconnect the battery. Connect the positive and negative cables together for 30 seconds and wipe the CMOS chip.

Put a new drive cycle on it. Try to be as specific as you can in following it.

Use something other than your phone tool, it's not giving you enough data to find the problem, there are very specific events that need to happen for each individual monitor to set.

For instance, if there is secondary air injection on that model, it must clear before it will even run the O2's, Cat etc.

HMU if you ever want to fix it, after all that's what I do for a living, fix this modern crap :p;)

PS: Sorry about the pole bro! Did you forget your booster seat? 😆
 

pronstar

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Pron,

Disconnect the battery. Connect the positive and negative cables together for 30 seconds and wipe the CMOS chip.

Put a new drive cycle on it. Try to be as specific as you can in following it.

Use something other than your phone tool, it's not giving you enough data to find the problem, there are very specific events that need to happen for each individual monitor to set.

For instance, if there is secondary air injection on that model, it must clear before it will even run the O2's, Cat etc.

HMU if you ever want to fix it, after all that's what I do for a living, fix this modern crap :p;)
It’s just weird that i followed the drive cycle instructions to the letter…worked last year when i had the same issue.

But battery had not been disconnected, truck is driven regularly…but from last year to now, i’m getting “not ready” monitors which doesn’t make sense if nothing has changed and power was never disconnected?
 
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