Micro stub proper insatll

[69hondo]

I seem to go through a micro stub bearing once a season. I drive pretty hard but I think they should last more than 6 trips a season.

Before I go ask on GD.com and get everyone and their mothers opinion does anyone have a better way. I have 250ftlb torque wrench and have tried a buddies one to make sure it is correct and it always is.
If the hole for the cotter pin is not exact do you got tighter than 250 or looser?

 

[EmpirE231]

I seem to go through a micro stub bearing once a season. I drive pretty hard but I think they should last more than 6 trips a season.

Before I go ask on GD.com and get everyone and their mothers opinion does anyone have a better way. I have 250ftlb torque wrench and have tried a buddies one to make sure it is correct and it always is.
If the hole for the cotter pin is not exact do you got tighter than 250 or looser?

I'd go tighter.... back when I had micro stubs, didn't have a torque wrench that wen to 250LB so used a cheater bar and stood on it lol

what brand bearings / hubs are you running? I ran RBP hubs and they held up pretty good.

 

[69hondo]

I'd go tighter.... back when I had micro stubs, didn't have a torque wrench that wen to 250LB so used a cheater bar and stood on it lol

what brand bearings / hubs are you running? I ran RBP hubs and they held up pretty good.

The last one was a Jamar. At 300 bucks a piece I am getting tired of it. LOL

 

[25Elmn8r]

I'd go tighter.... back when I had micro stubs, didn't have a torque wrench that wen to 250LB so used a cheater bar and stood on it lol

Same way I always tightened them.

 

[EmpirE231]

The last one was a Jamar. At 300 bucks a piece I am getting tired of it. LOL

Any idea why they’re failing? Do you have super wide wheels? Or are they failing from landing sideways off jumps etc?

934’s?

 

[Icky]

On my 930s I was told go the next hole tighter. Ive had my car 3 seasons and haven't had a bearing go bad

 

[evantwheeler]

I seem to go through a micro stub bearing once a season. I drive pretty hard but I think they should last more than 6 trips a season.

Before I go ask on GD.com and get everyone and their mothers opinion does anyone have a better way. I have 250ftlb torque wrench and have tried a buddies one to make sure it is correct and it always is.
If the hole for the cotter pin is not exact do you got tighter than 250 or looser?

I've had pro-am's on my car for 3 good seasons (5 years but took 2 seasons off). Our whole group run's the Pro-Am's and runs hard. Two have broke bearings in the dunes but these things take some serious abuse. Like 10 loops up/down the hill every trip abuse.

I saw Kartek had a rebuildable bearing now. I think I would go that way if I was buying just the bearing. You have to call Pro-am direct to buy just the bearing (McKenzies only sells them as a full hub/stub/brake kit) and I hear they are being stingy with who gets to just buy bearings.

 

[Racer56]

Go to the off-road swap meet and buy some good used mid-board or out-board hubs and never look back.

 

[02HoWaRd26]

Go one hole tighter.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Aside from keeping everything tighter than your date on prom night, look at a couple surrounding things. Make sure your trailing arms (or a-arms/links) aren't twisted or tweaked. As odd as it sounds, with the wheels off, check the "alignment". I've seen trailing arm cars with the rears toed out or in, so constantly putting added stress on the bearing.

 

[Meaney77]

As Monkeyswrench mentioned, have you checked overall alignment of the car to make sure the trailing arms are tracking properly and confirm nothing is bent?

 

[69hondo]

Aside from keeping everything tighter than your date on prom night, look at a couple surrounding things. Make sure your trailing arms (or a-arms/links) aren't twisted or tweaked. As odd as it sounds, with the wheels off, check the "alignment". I've seen trailing arm cars with the rears toed out or in, so constantly putting added stress on the bearing.

As Monkeyswrench mentioned, have you checked overall alignment of the car to make sure the trailing arms are tracking properly and confirm nothing is bent?

No but I have always backed the nut off to the next cotter pin hole so I am thinking that's what is causing the premature wear.

The car tracks right and doesnt pull. I will check it though.

 

[monkeyswrench]

No but I have always backed the nut off to the next cotter pin hole so I am thinking that's what is causing the premature wear.

The car tracks right and doesnt pull. I will check it though.

Many years ago, BC (before children), I had a dune car. 2332 and such. I couldn't afford real brakes at the time, and ran turned down hubs. My issue was spinning the splines out. My friend that drag raced bugs told me to put the axle nut on as tight as possible, and drill the nut to match the pin hole. That did it, never had an issue.

In your case, the minute amount of play left by backing off the nut may allow a small amount of shock. If the hub has wear, or the stub, it may also allow it to "rock" and knock on the bearing. Hope it gets sorted...post lots of pics of the trip!

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Many years ago, BC (before children), I had a dune car. 2332 and such. I couldn't afford real brakes at the time, and ran turned down hubs. My issue was spinning the splines out. My friend that drag raced bugs told me to put the axle nut on as tight as possible, and drill the nut to match the pin hole. That did it, never had an issue.

In your case, the minute amount of play left by backing off the nut may allow a small amount of shock. If the hub has wear, or the stub, it may also allow it to "rock" and knock on the bearing. Hope it gets sorted...post lots of pics of the trip!

This.