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Office / Classroom Build thread

CLdrinker

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So here is the deal. Our 4 Bed / 2 Bath / 1 Office house has gotten to small.

My wife and I both work from home plus my wife home schools our 3 kids. Toss in my MIL that stays here 6 months out of the year this place has turned into a cluster fuck.

We are not staying in CA forever so selling and rebuying plus paying closing costs and loosing our 20yr 2.75 rate isn’t the smartest thing to do.

So here is the plan.
We have 2 sheds a 10x16 and a 8x10.

I sold the the small one to a member here.

I’m moving the big shed out back to the small sheds old spot. I put a deposit down to have a 12x24 shed built late February.

First task move small shed out of the damn way to level a pad and poor some footings for the 10x16 to move too.
I’m also running power out to this shed so I have started to dig the trench. Ground is hard as fuck.

The plan for the new big shed is to insulate, drywall, wire it and rough in a full bath room to be finished later. It will also get a ductless split I think or a window shaker depends on my wallets health at that point.

The goal is to have this done end of April 🤦

Here are the first pics of this shit show.

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CLdrinker

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Yes that’s my son wearing a pink jacket. He couldn’t come outside without a jacket and he couldn’t find his. So he improvised. The kid is a problem solver lol.
 

CLdrinker

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Finished the trench. Ran the conduit and electrical. Before the pros freak out, yes I know Romex dont go in conduit. But I already had it and there won’t be shit for load on it. Just a motion light and a flood light.

Did some more leveling on the pad for the 10x16 to move too.
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CLdrinker

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Got a couple of the footings down got the old shed to move too. Need to do one more.

I have allot to learn about concrete lol.
Oh and 90# bags can fuck off. My back is killing me.

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NicPaus

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Why not put it on a slab? Rodents and other critters like to make homes under sheds.

To avoid that you could pour s front and back footing.
 

CLdrinker

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Why not put it on a slab? Rodents and other critters like to make homes under sheds.

To avoid that you could pour s front and back footing.

The existing 10x16 has been here 8yrs and I haven’t had a problem. That and I’m trying to keep costs down. As it is this little rodeo is going to be over 15k.

If I poured a slab then it really wouldn’t be a shed and I wouldn’t be able to play stupid if I get busted by the city. I also need the fall for the drains in the bathroom anyway.

I could sell the 10x16 when I move as it will fit out the gate.
 

Kachina26

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The existing 10x16 has been here 8yrs and I haven’t had a problem. That and I’m trying to keep costs down. As it is this little rodeo is going to be over 15k.

If I poured a slab then it really wouldn’t be a shed and I wouldn’t be able to play stupid if I get busted by the city. I also need the fall for the drains in the bathroom anyway.

I could sell the 10x16 when I move as it will fit out the gate.
The city has already been alerted.
 

wash11

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Looking forward to more updates. BTW, give your wife a big hug from all of us for homeschooling the kids👍👍
 

CLdrinker

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Looking forward to more updates. BTW, give your wife a big hug from all of us for homeschooling the kids👍👍
She is a saint. Full time job and home schooling 3 kids. Plus running them to sports, making lunch and dinner.

I hit the wife lottery.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Word of advice -

I’ve been down this road. Get the mini split because it is quiet and has heat as well as cooling. You are investing in a space to give your kids a quality education. Spend the money and make the space quiet and comfortable so they can get the most out of it.

You can probably get away with a 9k unit in that 12x24 space.
 

CLdrinker

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Word of advice -

I’ve been down this road. Get the mini split because it is quiet and has heat as well as cooling. You are investing in a space to give your kids a quality education. Spend the money and make the space quiet and comfortable so they can get the most out of it.

You can probably get away with a 9k unit in that 12x24 space.

The cool factor of having a wood fireplace is going to have to give way to a ductless split. I have been looking at 9k units for around $1000.
Lots of brands I have never heard of. Back in my HVAC days it was only LG and Mitsubishi.
 

CLdrinker

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This looks like a good deal. Wonder about the quality though.
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LargeOrangeFont

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This looks like a good deal. Wonder about the quality though. View attachment 1184693

Most use many of the same name brand compressors inside. My 24k BTU no name garage unit has a Mitsubishi compressor in it.

Personally after having 3 with good results and using my Pioneer 9k 5+ days a week for 8 hours a day for 6 years I don’t see much reason to spend double or more on a name brand unit.

FWIW my 9k Pioneer was just over $700 shipped 6 years ago, so these are coming down in price year after year. My 24k was $1250 on sale from Home Depot.
 

CLdrinker

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Most use many of the same name brand compressors inside. My 24k BTU no name garage unit has a Mitsubishi compressor in it.

Personally after having 3 with good results and using my Pioneer 9k 5+ days a week for 8 hours a day for 6 years I don’t see much reason to spend double or more on a name brand unit.

FWIW my 9k Pioneer was just over $700 shipped 6 years ago, so these are coming down in price year after year. My 24k was $1250 on sale from Home Depot.

I left the HVAC industry in ‘08 so allot has changed. Ductless splits started gaining popularity around that time. If they have the same compressors the rest of the parts are minor and probably the same as well.
 

CLdrinker

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Shed is moved time to level off and run utilities for the new one.
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NicPaus

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That middle fitting the San t is not supposed to go on its back or flat. Should be a combi like the others. No inspection so I wouldn't worry about it. Looking good.
 

CLdrinker

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That middle fitting the San t is not supposed to go on its back or flat. Should be a combi like the others. No inspection so I wouldn't worry about it. Looking good.
It’s also supposed to have a flange on it. Must have been in the wrong box when I grabbed it. Had to return it this morning.

That is for the shiter. Do you think I need to vent the shiter break off as I am already venting the sink which is the nearest fitting.
 

CLdrinker

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Time to start grading and set forms. Going to have to cut the floor out and finish plumbing as it’s kind hard to get things exactly where the need to be.
 

NicPaus

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It’s also supposed to have a flange on it. Must have been in the wrong box when I grabbed it. Had to return it this morning.

That is for the shiter. Do you think I need to vent the shiter break off as I am already venting the sink which is the nearest fitting.
Yes vent for sure. Or it can possibly suck the sink p trap dry and you will smell sewer gas. Between that fitting and the one behind it add another 4x2 combi. Using the 2" for the vent.
 

CLdrinker

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She’s a bit high of the ground. Good for plumbing not for entry.

Aldo think we are going to skip the shower. It won’t be used hardly at all and will save about $1500
 

NicPaus

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Mike's concrete! Get your DBA and write off that new truck and all those business expenses. It will help you with taxes.
 

CLdrinker

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Not feeling confident how this is turning out thinking the edges of the faces are gonna look like shit.

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CLdrinker

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I’m waiting for it to dry. It’s way to wet. Just washing out.
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NicPaus

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Sponge that old concrete clean asap! You got Time on the rest before you need to hit it with a float. Then let it set for a while hit it with float followed by trowel. Then re hit the edges again.
 

CLdrinker

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Sponge that old concrete clean asap! You got Time on the rest before you need to hit it with a float. Then let it set for a while hit it with float followed by trowel. Then re hit the edges again.
This is what it looked like when I gave up.


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Kachina26

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Oh, and the steps look pretty darned good to.
 

NicPaus

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Looking good! Make sure you got 12" from finish to center of toilet. 12 3/4" from stud before drywall.

2 1/8" hole for sink drain which is 1 1/2" pipe and 2 9/16" for vent 2" pipe. Or 2 1/2 and 3 if that's what you got for bits.
 

SCHIADATROUBLE

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Looking good! Make sure you got 12" from finish to center of toilet. 12 3/4" from stud before drywall.

2 1/8" hole for sink drain which is 1 1/2" pipe and 2 9/16" for vent 2" pipe. Or 2 1/2 and 3 if that's what you got for bits.
Good pointers learned that in my early days the hard way.
 

CLdrinker

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Looking good! Make sure you got 12" from finish to center of toilet. 12 3/4" from stud before drywall.

2 1/8" hole for sink drain which is 1 1/2" pipe and 2 9/16" for vent 2" pipe. Or 2 1/2 and 3 if that's what you got for bits.

So I have almost 2” toilet to wall before sheet rock so I’m good. You told me about venting the shiter right after I put fittings underground.

Since we are skipping the shower. I’m going to use the 1.5” that was for the sink as the vent for the “main line”.
I put a 3”x3”x1.5” in the toilet line for the sink to tie into. That sink line will tee inside the wall and go to vent as well.

Batteries died so I can’t get the floor reinstalled for the last time.

Sink will be a bit close to the shiter. There is 3” inside the box. So I will gain a bit there.

My dumbass just realized since we are skipping shower no water heater for the sink. Dam

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SCHIADATROUBLE

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So I have almost 2” toilet to wall before sheet rock so I’m good. You told me about venting the shiter right after I put fittings underground.

Since we are skipping the shower. I’m going to use the 1.5” that was for the sink as the vent for the “main line”.
I put a 3”x3”x1.5” in the toilet line for the sink to tie into. That sink line will tee inside the wall and go to vent as well.

Batteries died so I can’t get the floor reinstalled for the last time.

Sink will be a bit close to the shiter. There is 3” inside the box. So I will gain a bit there.

My dumbass just realized since we are skipping shower no water heater for the sink. Dam

View attachment 1193989 View attachment 1193990 View attachment 1193991
Make sure to put nail plates so you don’t screw into your drain for sink or vent when you’re hanging your drywall.
 

Kachina26

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So I have almost 2” toilet to wall before sheet rock so I’m good. You told me about venting the shiter right after I put fittings underground.

Since we are skipping the shower. I’m going to use the 1.5” that was for the sink as the vent for the “main line”.
I put a 3”x3”x1.5” in the toilet line for the sink to tie into. That sink line will tee inside the wall and go to vent as well.

Batteries died so I can’t get the floor reinstalled for the last time.

Sink will be a bit close to the shiter. There is 3” inside the box. So I will gain a bit there.

My dumbass just realized since we are skipping shower no water heater for the sink. Dam

View attachment 1193989 View attachment 1193990 View attachment 1193991
 

DLC

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Looking Great !

Is it ready to go ! I’ve got shit tickets and I need to take a Dump!

lol

Steps look great also !!
 

hallett21

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So I have almost 2” toilet to wall before sheet rock so I’m good. You told me about venting the shiter right after I put fittings underground.

Since we are skipping the shower. I’m going to use the 1.5” that was for the sink as the vent for the “main line”.
I put a 3”x3”x1.5” in the toilet line for the sink to tie into. That sink line will tee inside the wall and go to vent as well.

Batteries died so I can’t get the floor reinstalled for the last time.

Sink will be a bit close to the shiter. There is 3” inside the box. So I will gain a bit there.

My dumbass just realized since we are skipping shower no water heater for the sink. Dam

View attachment 1193989 View attachment 1193990 View attachment 1193991
You can do a little insta hot water heater that’s electric if you want hot water at the sink
 

ChumpChange

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@NicPaus I see you liking that post. You offering? I need something big. Storage and gym.
 

NicPaus

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@NicPaus I see you liking that post. You offering? I need something big. Storage and gym.
If you were closer. I would check your city size limit for shed. Most are 100 sq ft then you need a permit. Might be worth adding a ADU instead for long term value. I need to price out a 6x10 shed for a property we are adding a ADU to as it won't have a garage or any storage.

I could use another temporary shed. Already have 6 though. Once I build my garage will be selling a few. Buy they are 8x10. Garage I use we are converting to adu and need to find a home for the items. Probably just buy another enclosed. Will have 3 for sale Already when I finish garage.
 

ChumpChange

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In my last house I had a 10 x 20 from shed world which was great. Solid built. No permit. I bought one of these stupid lifetime ones that is 8 x 20 and it sucks. Always dirty inside.

I’d rather build something custom so I can wrap it around a couple trees.

Not sure if the ADU would fit my need as I don’t want to necessarily run plumbing and everything else to it. I’d have to cut up concrete that is 6 inches thick that was laid for my motorhome.
 
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