Patio Paver Install... Need Advice

[t&y]

Need advice from the RDP experts.

Installing a Patio Paver area in the backyard and have a couple questions. This is not a lounge around hang out area, it will be more utility type for a Shed and Dog Kennel. Looking at about 500 sq ft over all. I've already cleared the majority of area of the previous playground covered with river rock, and will be working on leveling and removing the remainder of dirt/grass to complete the paver area.

Here are my questions.

We are looking at going with a basic 12 x 12 grey paver about 1" thick.

I know we need to level the ground and place landscape fabric prior to putting in the base gravel/mix. That is where the questions start. If we are using the 1" paver, how much of a base do I need after compaction, and what is the normal compaction rate. Meaning, If I put down 3" of un compacted base, then run the plate compactor over the base, how much will it compact?

Then comes the question of what is my starting depth. Two corners of this patio area are going up existing concrete sidewalk. So when I figure in overall depth (post compaction of base + sand directly under pavers + paver) how much below the actual concrete pad do I need to be so I don't end up with the a ledge to trip on?

Maybe I'm overthinking it... Is a 6" base the norm regardless of paver size? Meaning 6" base + 1" Sand + Paver? Or can I only do like a 3" base then the sand and paver??????

Of course this all started out as just another simple project

 

[Racer56]

4" base + 1" Sand + Paver. As said above, good compaction is essential.

 

[t&y]

Depends on the dirt. But if no cars just foot traffic I would use 3-4" of base in SoCal. In AZ with there dirt I have seen them use only 2" of base. A smaller paver is easier to set than 1x1 if you are doing your first install. Just remember "Compaction is Key" when it comes to pavers.

4" base + 1" Sand + Paver. As said above, good compaction is essential.

Thank you for the replies. So when I measure it out, where should the top of the paver be in relation to the existing edge, prior to running the plate compactor and filling the gaps? 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch?

 

[Racer56]

Thank you for the replies. So when I measure it out, where should the top of the paver be in relation to the existing edge, prior to running the plate compactor and filling the gaps? 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch?

+1/8 or flush. The large pavers you are using won't settle much.

 

[Yellowboat]

I recommend digging down 6" from where you want the paver to be( a level string line and a tape measure works grear for this) adding 4inch of base compacting it until it stops compatcing, add sand. By the time you compact everything well you should be close to flush. You can always add more sand.

I am just wondering why pavers and not concrete? You will move about the same ammount in wieght just less volume 500 sqft is about a little more than 6 yards using 4" thick slab.

If you are worried about being avle to finish it yourself in time, you could always break it up into thrids and go get 2 sleds of mix from the local rental yard. You could even break up the time doing it over 3 days. Another option is a truck and a 1 finisher with you providing the grunt work. Cost will be simlar.

For a dog kennel having a slab is better as you can hose it off cleaner.

 

[t&y]

Good points on the Concrete. We've considered that option. It's more of a what can I get done right now without waiting on the pump and finisher to line up. I have a buddy that does commercial paving that has put about 30 yards of concrete around my house at different times. Might be time to give him a call and weigh the options.

Big part of this project has been having my kids help at every step of the way. Teaching them all kinds of little things as we go.

 

[boatpi]

FYI; If you are planning on placing a patio cover over this area, this IS the time to install a footing with a metal support. Doing it later is a real mess.

 

[Yellowboat]

How old are your kids?

Preping for concrete is not that dissimilar to that for pavers. At least when it comes to diging and laying sand. Learning to form up also teach basic tool usage. Saws, tape measures, squares, hammering/ striping nails, level use/ slopes.

 

[C-2]

I learned a lot about pavers recently from a couple of experts.

Mainly, remember they are "interlocking" not due to any mechanical feature of the paver itself. Rather, it's the joint sand that keeps them locked in place.

If the paver moves/settles, then the joint sand becomes unstable and from there it goes down hill...the sand washes away, pavers moved when stepped on further eroding the joint sand, and then your install looks bad. So yes, make sure your base is compacted with the right substrate and water runoff can drain readily into the soil below. If they do not drain, then the standing moisture loosens the joint sand and it washes away, and then the pavers move easily etc etc. Here in the IE there's a lot of clay, so make sure to use sufficient substrate for drainage.

The https://www.icpi.org/ is a great resource, too.