Picked up a new project - Lowered K5 blazer...

[Tank]

Djunkie pointed me in the right direction (LMC) for replacement parts. Anyone have good websites to get aftermarket interior stuff. Dash, shifter, door handles, etc. just looking to see what's out there.

Looking forward to playing with this thing. Dropping it off Thursday for a huge stereo and alarm.

It's an 82 2wd blazer. 350 power. I assume it's been rebuilt because it leaked down strong.

Also need advise / ideas on rims. I'm thinking the torque thrusts style but need to know if 20's or 22's would be better.

Also eventually want to paint it and bag it. What's the best bang for the buck bag wise??

You are my go-to peeps

Thanks.

 

[mjc]

I have used Classic Industries and Brothers for parts my 85 and 87 chevy trucks

 

[dread Pirate]

Nice ride! Always liked them lowered. Those wheels will look sick too! :thumbsup

 

[brendellajet]

Cool truck! Almost bought one of those about 15 years ago. Yours is in much better shape now than the one I looked at back then.

 

[LomitaBob]

Those look real close to the rims DJunkie runs on his truck. they look sick on his, I would imagine the K5 would look just as good

 

[bonesfab]

I have always wanted a 2wd Blazer. That will be a cool cruiser. I am a Air-ride dealer and am in Camarillo.. If you need any parts for that I have a ton in my stash.. I have a chevy truck problem..

 

[warpt71]

Bitchen truck! LMC has a few custom interior pieces, billet dash bezels being one. That front bumper needs the turn signal lenses put back in it. I like the stock ralley wheels that are on it now, I say run it! Im not a big inch wheel fan, Id say no bigger than 18". Like I said in another thread, this body style truck is getting more and more popular

 

[Tank]

I have used Classic Industries and Brothers for parts my 85 and 87 chevy trucks

I will check those out. Thank you!

 

[Cole Trickle]

Congrats...looks like a fun toy

Here is the build section at probably the biggest website for these trucks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=37

I don't think you can go super low in the back without a ton of work/messing with the rear seat area.

Porterbuilt is who I would be looking at for suspension.

http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/

Check out this truck that was just finished for sema.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=554172

 

[Tank]

Thanks for the compliments guys. I've had a crap load of lowered and raised Chevys over the years but it's been a while and I was itching to get something dropped again to play with

 

[Tank]

I have always wanted a 2wd Blazer. That will be a cool cruiser. I am a Air-ride dealer and am in Camarillo.. If you need any parts for that I have a ton in my stash.. I have a chevy truck problem..

Are you a dealer/installer?

What am I looking at price wise to bag it. Nothing crazy just the basics.

 

[Tank]

Bitchen truck! LMC has a few custom interior pieces, billet dash bezels being one. That front bumper needs the turn signal lenses put back in it. I like the stock ralley wheels that are on it now, I say run it! Im not a big inch wheel fan, Id say no bigger than 18". Like I said in another thread, this body style truck is getting more and more popular

I hear you about the way it sits/looks now with the rallies. I really like the thruster look though and adds a little more custom touch. I'm not huge on blinging it out, I just want a rim that compliments the truck. The wheel wells are big and more square than other rides. I was thinking 20's at first but the research I did I found 22's actually look pretty good. But that was also on bagged blazers and c10's.

 

[Tank]

Congrats...looks like a fun toy

Here is the build section at probably the biggest website for these trucks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=37

I don't think you can go super low in the back without a ton of work/messing with the rear seat area.

Porterbuilt is who I would be looking at for suspension.

http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/

Check out this truck that was just finished for sema.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=554172

I PM'd you a couple days ago asking for info. You still have your truck?

I did see that website pop up a lot while doing research.

I don't want to do a crazy build but I'm willing to c notch the rear frame to get it down lower. I'll check the links. Thanks for the info. And leads.


And that sema build thread is AWESOME! That thing is SICK!

Don't think the wife would go for that however.

 

[Cole Trickle]

I PM'd you a couple days ago asking for info. You still have your truck?

I did see that website pop up a lot while doing research.

I don't want to do a crazy build but I'm willing to c notch the rear frame to get it down lower. I'll check the links. Thanks for the info. And leads.

Suspension wise there just like the trucks. You can bag the front pretty easy and get pretty low.

The rear is more complicated because the leafs. You would have to convert to a 4 link to bag it. Then you run into issues of the pumpking hitting the cab floor so you would have to raise the floor to get low and that pretty much eliminates the back seat unless you want to invest a ton of time and $$$.

If you are looking for a good all around set up for driving look at a 4.5/6 drop with a rear notch. (spindle and springs out front and a flip kit in the rear)

 

[Yldboyz]

Good deal !

 

[Tank]

Suspension wise there just like the trucks. You can bag the front pretty easy and get pretty low.

The rear is more complicated because the leafs. You would have to convert to a 4 link to bag it. Then you run into issues of the pumpking hitting the cab floor so you would have to raise the floor to get low and that pretty much eliminates the back seat unless you want to invest a ton of time and $$$.

If you are looking for a good all around set up for driving look at a 4.5/6 drop with a rear notch. (spindle and springs out front and a flip kit in the rear)

I have to look at the rear closer. Pretty sure it's not notched but I'm also pretty sure it already is a 4-6 drop. And it is spindle / springs in the font done proper, not heated or cut. But the rear hits the frame when I go over some bumps at speed.

Is there a way to "box" the rear where the pumpkin would travel up? Instead of raising the whole floor?

 

[Cole Trickle]

I have to look at the rear closer. Pretty sure it's not notched but I'm also pretty sure it already is a 4-6 drop. And it is spindle / springs in the font done proper, not heated or cut. But the rear hits the frame when I go over some bumps at speed.

Is there a way to "box" the rear where the pumpkin would travel up? Instead of raising the whole floor?

You are basically running the same program as djunkie. They probably already flipped the rear but didn't notch it.

Notching it will give you another 2-3 inches of up travel. To get really low you need a bigger "monster" notch and thats where you run into bed floor issues.

I would clean her up yank off the trailer hitch and exhaust pipe and throw on some big wheels and sway bars:thumbsup


I would say a conservative $$$ for bagging the truck is going to be 4-7K. There is a cheap way and a right way to do it. The right way is pricey...lol

TYhe bumpers look a little funny to me.....Are those factory for that year?

 

[Cole Trickle]

Here is what I am talking about as far as interior modifications if you want to go loooooow.

They have raised the wheelwells to the top of the bed rail and made a bridge so the pumpking has room to travel up.

imho it kind of defeats the whole point of having a vehicle with a rear seat...you are gonna want to take mama and you're little guy with you.

 

[Tank]

You are basically running the same program as djunkie. They probably already flipped the rear but didn't notch it.

Notching it will give you another 2-3 inches of up travel. To get really low you need a bigger "monster" notch and thats where you run into bed floor issues.

I would clean her up yank off the trailer hitch and exhaust pipe and throw on some big wheels and sway bars:thumbsup


I would say a conservative $$$ for bagging the truck is going to be 4-7K. There is a cheap way and a right way to do it. The right way is pricey...lol

TYhe bumpers look a little funny to me.....Are those factory for that year?

Funny you should say that...Already yanked the hitch off and cut the exhaust
they're going fix some electrical stuff while they're putting in the stereo. Rear window wont roll down. Going to put an alarm on it with auto locks.

I do believe those are the stock bumpers but the grille was swapped out for an 89 from end. This is what it's supposed to look like (which I actually like).




And yea, I'm not yanking the rear seat out. You're absolutely right. Though my wife hates lowered stuff, my son loves it and we just had another son so he'll love it too by god!!

 

[Tank]

So, next question...Rims.

I like the ones I posted but I kinda like these too.



And then the question is...22's or 20's. I've seen some with 22's and they look pretty good. I just want the well to be filled. I also see some run 22's on the back and 20's on the front. That actually looks pretty good too. So, opinions appreciated.

 

[djunkie]

I'd leave the suspension alone. C notch the rear for clearance. I like 20's so you can run a little higher profile tire. Rides a little better. Just make sure you get the offsets right. I've got a 295rear tire and I'd bet I could fit a bigger one than that but they get expensive past that size. I've got a 245 front but I think when I buy new ones I'd go to a 255. 245 looks a little narrow on my front rims.

 

[warpt71]

TYhe bumpers look a little funny to me.....Are those factory for that year?

Yes they are, '81-82 had the park lights/blinkers down in the front bumper, the rear looks to be standard for the Sub's and Blazers. The grill is wrong, for an '82, but a common swap to put the '91 grill and headlights in.

 

[Cole Trickle]

So, next question...Rims.

I like the ones I posted but I kinda like these too.

View attachment 301097

And then the question is...22's or 20's. I've seen some with 22's and they look pretty good. I just want the well to be filled. I also see some run 22's on the back and 20's on the front. That actually looks pretty good too. So, opinions appreciated.

picture is too little to see the wheels....

I really like the Boss 338 as there a good looking inexspensive wheel. Personally I would be looking at something else as there getting a tad over done these days. Noty only that but you and djunk will look like twins...lol

As far as rim size that is super subjective. I think the 20's on my truck are a perfect combo. I also liked the 20/22 staggered set up ran on my tahoe.

 

[Cole Trickle]

Yes they are, '81-82 had the park lights/blinkers down in the front bumper, the rear looks to be standard for the Sub's and Blazers. The grill is wrong, for an '82, but a common swap to put the '91 grill and headlights in.

Seems like the earlier K5's has smaller bumpers w/o the lights/holes? I would probably swap for earlier versions.

 

[warpt71]

Here is something I tried, and made work, on my '88 Sub. I have always wanted a touch screen dvd player in my trucks for driving out to the River, but putting one in the stock location would be pointless. I did some measuring and scored a 2nd dash (in case I screwed up the first one) and went to town. The biggest pain in the ass was re-routing the A/C ducting. Its very doable and different.

I need to shoot some more finished pics w/ the dash put back together all the way lol

 

[djunkie]

picture is too little to see the wheels....

I really like the Boss 338 as there a good looking inexspensive wheel. Personally I would be looking at something else as there getting a tad over done these days. Noty only that but you and djunk will look like twins...lol

As far as rim size that is super subjective. I think the 20's on my truck are a perfect combo. I also liked the 20/22 staggered set up ran on my tahoe.

The 338's don't fit right anyways. Front is ok but the rear requires a 1" spacer to keep the tire from rubbing on the inner fender. I got some nice billet ones and haven't had any problems.

 

[warpt71]

Seems like the earlier K5's has smaller bumpers w/o the lights/holes? I would probably swap for earlier versions.

The earlier front end '73-80 had completely different bumpers that were much more round. My '86 and '87 both have the same bumpers as Tank's but w/out the lights, just smooth. djunkie should have the same one on his truck?

 

[djunkie]

Seems like the earlier K5's has smaller bumpers w/o the lights/holes? I would probably swap for earlier versions.

I really like my front end.

 

[Cole Trickle]

I really like my front end.

I like you're bumpers.....

I also am a fan of leaving the factory grills alone.

 

[warpt71]

I like you're bumpers.....

I also am a fan of leaving the factory grills alone.

I have a chrome round tube in my '86 dually cause thats what came w/it and a billit one in my '87 Sub and a stock one that Im not sure what to do with. Probably end up in the dually when it gets painted :rolleyes

 

[Tank]

I'd leave the suspension alone. C notch the rear for clearance. I like 20's so you can run a little higher profile tire. Rides a little better. Just make sure you get the offsets right. I've got a 295rear tire and I'd bet I could fit a bigger one than that but they get expensive past that size. I've got a 245 front but I think when I buy new ones I'd go to a 255. 245 looks a little narrow on my front rims.

Well, I'm definately leaving it as is for now. Suspension will be the very last thing (even after paint, which I'd like to do house of colors candy orange or root beer).

Anyone know if a set of (I know I may be dating myself here) air shocks would help? Had a set on a lowered Elcamino I had a long time ago and they worked great for adjusting height.

Djunkie, can you post bigger/better pics of your ride and how it sits?

 

[Tank]

picture is too little to see the wheels....

I really like the Boss 338 as there a good looking inexspensive wheel. Personally I would be looking at something else as there getting a tad over done these days. Noty only that but you and djunk will look like twins...lol

As far as rim size that is super subjective. I think the 20's on my truck are a perfect combo. I also liked the 20/22 staggered set up ran on my tahoe.

I was looking at the BOss 338's. got a very good price on tires/rims.

Here's a better pic of the rims. they're off of a Truckin' mag article online and the pics are protected. Hopefully you can see them a bit better. I'd like to know what they are...I've liked them for a while.

 

[Tank]

I really like my front end.

That's the front end mine is supposed to have. I'm almost considering swaping it back because I like the look of that front end. And the swap seems a little ghetto to me.

 

[Tank]

Here is something I tried, and made work, on my '88 Sub. I have always wanted a touch screen dvd player in my trucks for driving out to the River, but putting one in the stock location would be pointless. I did some measuring and scored a 2nd dash (in case I screwed up the first one) and went to town. The biggest pain in the ass was re-routing the A/C ducting. Its very doable and different.

I need to shoot some more finished pics w/ the dash put back together all the way lol

That's very cool. I'd like to see how it turned out. I'm going with a standard single din head unit. I have a butt load of Focal components, PPI and Fosgate amps and two twelve Kicker subs. I have double din touch screen nav stuff but just looking for simple, good quality sound for a commuter.



Anyone done any gauge / dash work? The guy that owned this thing pulled the gauges out in an attempt to put different colored bulbs in the dash and screwed up the whole gauge cluster. I'm buying a new stock one but would like to get the billet or maybe a carbon fiber outter dash piece to go over the cluster. Then, when I'm looking around online I find a pic of someone that put Livorsi or Autometer gauges in and it looks pretty slick. Thought that might be a cool option but it sounds like it could be a nightmare running the electrical to it. New stock dash cluster is plug and play.

 

[djunkie]

Well, I'm definately leaving it as is for now. Suspension will be the very last thing (even after paint, which I'd like to do house of colors candy orange or root beer).

Anyone know if a set of (I know I may be dating myself here) air shocks would help? Had a set on a lowered Elcamino I had a long time ago and they worked great for adjusting height.

Djunkie, can you post bigger/better pics of your ride and how it sits?

I've got air shocks on mine. I run about 90psi in them and it helps keep the axle from hitting frame. I still plan on notching the frame eventually. Here's some pics.

 

[warpt71]

The light bulbs are just 194's, you could probably put whatever color you want. I'm gonna order all led's cause the gauges aren't very bright. Tho one thing that usually gets screwed up back there on the clusters is the copper circuit's for the bulb connection. Hold on, I'll get a pic of what I'm tryin to say....

 

[warpt71]

Hope that helps explain what I was talking about

 

[bonesfab]

Are you a dealer/installer?

What am I looking at price wise to bag it. Nothing crazy just the basics.

Yes I am a dealer/installer. Air ride level 1 kit retails for 3600.00 level 2 retails 5500.00. I can get you better than that. I like the level 2 as it comes with the tubular a-arms and the better control system. Both kits come with a 4-link for the rear. Give me a call or stop by the shop when you get a chance. My daily driver has the full air ride kit on it. Here is a picture of my buddies Blazer we did a few years ago.

 

[warpt71]

That's very cool. I'd like to see how it turned out. I'm going with a standard single din head unit. I have a butt load of Focal components, PPI and Fosgate amps and two twelve Kicker subs. I have double din touch screen nav stuff but just looking for simple, good quality sound for a commuter.

Kinda hard to get good pics today cause it's overcast, but here are a few. I'm happy w/ it, it looks clean and cost me zero, got the head unit out of an impounded car and had the speakers left over form something else. Getting decent size speakers in these trucks is kinda fun too! That's probably an entire new thread though. Rear 6x9's were actually pretty easy, it was the front 5?'s that were tough.

 

[Tank]

I've got air shocks on mine. I run about 90psi in them and it helps keep the axle from hitting frame. I still plan on notching the frame eventually. Here's some pics.

Now, those are 20x8.5 or 20x10 or what? And you said you have to run a spacer in the rear?

That thing sits nice. You ready to be twinzies??

 

[Tank]

Hope that helps explain what I was talking about

Good call on the LEDS. I will settle for a working dash at this point

 

[bonesfab]

Well, I'm definately leaving it as is for now. Suspension will be the very last thing (even after paint, which I'd like to do house of colors candy orange or root beer).

Anyone know if a set of (I know I may be dating myself here) air shocks would help? Had a set on a lowered Elcamino I had a long time ago and they worked great for adjusting height.

Djunkie, can you post bigger/better pics of your ride and how it sits?

The candy orange and root beer are becoming very popular.. We just painted a 70 nova a candy orange and did a 56 ford f100 in a form of copper/rootbeer. Just did a Harley tank in the same rootbeer/copper..

 

[Tank]

Yes I am a dealer/installer. Air ride level 1 kit retails for 3600.00 level 2 retails 5500.00. I can get you better than that. I like the level 2 as it comes with the tubular a-arms and the better control system. Both kits come with a 4-link for the rear. Give me a call or stop by the shop when you get a chance. My daily driver has the full air ride kit on it. Here is a picture of my buddies Blazer we did a few years ago.

What's the address out there? I'll swing by for sure.

And that Blazer is SIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICK!

 

[Tank]

The candy orange and root beer are becoming very popular.. We just painted a 70 nova a candy orange and did a 56 ford f100 in a form of copper/rootbeer. Just did a Harley tank in the same rootbeer/copper..

I love that orange but it might be a bit much on a Tahoe. Unless I went full balls deep on a custom project. I'd like to do a little darker rootbeer though. Maybe with-out the copper.

You shoot those? Nice work.

 

[djunkie]

Now, those are 20x8.5 or 20x10 or what? And you said you have to run a spacer in the rear?

That thing sits nice. You ready to be twinzies??

20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear. I just went out and double checked my tires. I do have 255 fronts. Not 245's. they're toyo proxis 255-40 fronts, 295-40 rears. I am using a 1" billet spacer on the rear and it puts the wheel pretty close to center of the wheel well. I have no rubbing issues at all even at full turn in the front.

 

[bonesfab]

391 S. Dawson Dr. #3s. it is the place with a few chevy crewcabs in the parking lot..

 

[djunkie]

One other note, with those Boss wheels they're a little tight on the front hub. I took a grinder to the front hub where the bearing cap is and just coned it a tiny bit and they fit right on.

 

[69GS]

Congrats...looks like a fun toy

Here is the build section at probably the biggest website for these trucks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=37

I don't think you can go super low in the back without a ton of work/messing with the rear seat area.

Porterbuilt is who I would be looking at for suspension.

http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/

Check out this truck that was just finished for sema.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=554172

X2 and I would stay away from LMC especially if you need any body parts or trim for which I would go with MAR-K out of Oklahoma City.

 

[warpt71]

391 S. Dawson Dr. #3s. it is the place with a few chevy crewcabs in the parking lot..

Im gonna save this, I have been collecting parts to lower my C-30 and finish it the way I want for almost 5 years now! And Im not too far from either of you guys

 

[Tank]

20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear. I just went out and double checked my tires. I do have 255 fronts. Not 245's. they're toyo proxis 255-40 fronts, 295-40 rears. I am using a 1" billet spacer on the rear and it puts the wheel pretty close to center of the wheel well. I have no rubbing issues at all even at full turn in the front.

Perfect. Thanks.

391 S. Dawson Dr. #3s. it is the place with a few chevy crewcabs in the parking lot..

I'll have to get out that way and check it out. Would love to talk trucks with you.