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Transom failure,,,,,,,again

Ultra912

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Had Ultra do the transom, floor and stringers on my 19' Charger OB a couple seasons ago (2020). First time out it failed so I took it back for repair. Rusty stood by it and repaired it, I thought. Fast forward to last weekend. With 3 hrs on the clock, failed again. I've gotten several prices to repair and their telling me he left the rotted transom wood in and the glass is no longer laminated to the wood. He reinforced the underneath interior with ears attached to the new stringers but it's apparently flexing due to rot. My OB bracket mounting bolts have pulled the fiberglass in so there is delamination happening. Should he be responsible for repair or is he off the hook because the failure is due to something he didn't touch,,,,,,the original transom board. He diagnosed it and said it needed a floor and stringers as well as transom reinforcement but apparently decided he'd skip the rot. Another 6 g's isn't sitting well with me.
 

JFMFG

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Had Ultra do the transom, floor and stringers on my 19' Charger OB a couple seasons ago (2020). First time out it failed so I took it back for repair. Rusty stood by it and repaired it, I thought. Fast forward to last weekend. With 3 hrs on the clock, failed again. I've gotten several prices to repair and their telling me he left the rotted transom wood in and the glass is no longer laminated to the wood. He reinforced the underneath interior with ears attached to the new stringers but it's apparently flexing due to rot. My OB bracket mounting bolts have pulled the fiberglass in so there is delamination happening. Should he be responsible for repair or is he off the hook because the failure is due to something he didn't touch,,,,,,the original transom board. He diagnosed it and said it needed a floor and stringers as well as transom reinforcement but apparently decided he'd skip the rot. Another 6 g's isn't sitting well with me.
No real good outcome to be honest if he’s done it twice and failed with 3 hours on it he’s prob not the man for the job. Cut your loss and move on.
 

74 spectra20 v-drive

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every bit of wood should have come out especially with that outboard hanging off the back. I am just basing that off repairs I have seen done for years at my uncles shop. If they get in there and tell you they are fixing it, they should stand by this.
 

Ultra912

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This time I'm gonna have the splashwell removed and an interior bracket fabricated to mount inside transom wall and attach to stringers
 

Backlash

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^^^ This is what I'm doing on my Howard. All new transom, 4 new stringers and new bulkheads throughout the boat. It's taking me forever, but I'm not in a rush and want it don't right.

In your drawings above, run those side plates further down towards the hull bottom. You want to tie the transom in to the stringer knees, then tie the stringer knees in to the stringers. Connect all three structural pieces together. That way you are spreading the load of your motor and plate all the way down to the stringers. I hope that makes sense.

Are you in LHC or SoCal??
 

Backlash

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When I built my stringer knees, I laminated 2 layers of 3/4" plywood together with fiberglass in between them. That gave me the thickness to match the widths of my main stringers (2"). That way when I tie the stringer knees into the stringers, they will all be the same width. The aluminum plates I cut out will lay flat against the sides of the stringer knees and the sides of the stringers. It makes sense in my head, so hopefully that translated to making sense on the keyboard. 🤣👍
 

Ultra912

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^^^ This is what I'm doing on my Howard. All new transom, 4 new stringers and new bulkheads throughout the boat. It's taking me forever, but I'm not in a rush and want it don't right.

In your drawings above, run those side plates further down towards the hull bottom. You want to tie the transom in to the stringer knees, then tie the stringer knees in to the stringers. Connect all three structural pieces together. That way you are spreading the load of your motor and plate all the way down to the stringers. I hope that makes sense.

Are you in LHC or SoCal??
SoCal/Victorville
The knees and floor are new and haven't failed. To get a bracket like that to fit requires the splashwell to be eliminated though.
 

Backlash

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SoCal/Victorville
The knees and floor are new and haven't failed. To get a bracket like that to fit requires the splashwell to be eliminated though.
Right on. Grab a grinder and go to town! 😉

Are you capable (And do you have the space?), of de-rigging the boat and pulling everything apart?? If you can, you will save yourself a bunch of money. Once you get the hull, take everything out and tow the bare hull down to Orange County Boat Repair. They have been around for years and do nice work. Or one of the other reputable shops in Castaic or out in Havazoo. You already know where NOT to take it.
 

Backlash

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I meant to tell you earlier, I LOVE the colors of your boat. One of my favorite gel schemes. 👍
 

NicPaus

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More disappointment from Ultra. Sorry to hear.

Sal Sr at Orange county boat repair is a solid recommendation. Jr pretty much runs it now but Sr was still hands on when my Buddy took his Howard there last year.
 

Singleton

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WOT Marine in Vista does structural and gel repairs.
Kyle picked up some of the DCB resources who did not relocate.

Ultra (Rusty) did my front and rear cap. Have had problems with blend since. Rear cap cracked, he repaired that, but clear blend was a shit job.
 

Bajastu

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Here’s my Hallett 19SS that I had Barron redo after my transom cracked. It was bulletproof after they finished it. The last picture was the before repair picture.


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ChrisV

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Get the grinder out and go to town.

 
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