New member, old boat

[AngrySailor]

Digging the old Yammi! The boats and motors are pretty cool too!

She’s swapped with a red head 700 triple. Scoots pretty good on the flat/hard pack snow and ice. I’ve had it over 100mph and didn’t find the end of it before running out of frozen river! Heading over to buddys shop today to yank the boat engine and V drive. Got material for my set back plate and was talking to an old pro-mod racer friend of mine. He gave me some advice on restripping the 14-71, said I’ll have no problem doing it here myself. He used to strip his own blowers all the time. Guess I’ll source some gears, bearings, seals and 1/4” half round Teflon next.

 

[AngrySailor]

Two bolts left holding the engine, V drive out, back at my shop getting a forklift out of hibernation to lift it out.

 

[AngrySailor]

It’s a production just to get the darn thing back in the barn... little forklift was stuck solid too. Can’t wait for our two months of summer...

 

[AngrySailor]

Boats in the barn, V drive in on my shop floor, the little 4-fiddy-4 is in the workshop and as good as sold (just gotta inspect and pull the marine parts off as it’s going in a ‘65 chev c30 lol). them Teflon strips pull out like butter, feeling way better about rebuilding this blower here. Just gotta check I don’t have a bent rotor... if I do it’s not much, measuring less than 0.005” runout at the gears so far.

 

[AngrySailor]

Working on the set back plate today. Awful tight running a mag trigger distributor under a big blower... I kinda wanted to avoid a crank trigger for this build.

 

[AngrySailor]

Only five months to summer.

 

[AngrySailor]

V-drive all apart. Paging JJ!!! JJ line 1! Ready for rebuild parts, prop release and gears for this puppy soon.

Had the snowmobile out all day Saturday. Wiped out on the ice at over 100mph, my head kept the sled and ice from getting hurt. I got a good bruise around my neck from the helmet strap and the rest of me is pretty darn sore. Had to ride home about 50 miles after the spill I took. Wasn’t too much fun, been recovering in the house (bed mostly) last few days...

 

[AngrySailor]

Anyone got a parts breakdown on the Cassale split boxes? I’ve never had this one this far apart and I swear it’s missing a collar between the back top bearing and the top gear! The gear was just bottomed out on the shaft splines which doesn’t seem right. This box ran super quiet and cool, gear patter looks correct. All I’ve ever done to it was replace the front lower bearing and change the oil... I don’t think I’ve ever slid the upper gear off the shaft but it’s been 20 years since I have had the front case off to change that bearing...

 

[MOUZER]

 

[AngrySailor]

Thanks. Looks like only one spacer collar on the top gear is correct. It’s definitely causing some wear on the spline shoulder though. Seems correct by that breakdown though. Thanks.

 

[MOUZER]

Sorry it's so blurry u can look it up...

 

[AngrySailor]

Well I got the call to return to the ship, party is over for a bit... I’ll be flying out on the weekend weather permitting as we’re in for a big storm here. Going to be a busy trip, the ship is laid up and heading to dry dock for the month of March. I got a 24,000hr rebuild to do on a 1050Kw wärtsila generator set. It’s a fair size 6cyl heavy fuel engine. Gotta do cylinder heads, pistons, liners, con rods and main/rod bearings, rebuild injectors and fuel pumps too, turbo, aftercooler, all the auxiliary pumps... Fair bit of work and it’s all day work with office dicks/transport Canada/US coast guard and insurance dicks running around as it’s our 5 year inspection/recertification... joy...

 

[AngrySailor]

Bolt patterns all drilled, tapped and counter bored in the set back plate. Pretty snug for the distributor...

 

[AngrySailor]

Hmm, though I had about an extra 0.3xx” to drop the distributor down cuz it’s a tall deck block but I just checked my short deck blower manifold against the tall deck manifold and it looks like someone’s already machined the distributor seat to allow use of a short deck distributor on a tall deck… I was going to machine the collar off this distributor and put a slip collar on, I still might just to dial in the gear pattern but I won’t gain that 5/16” clearance under the blower/set back plate.

Some idiot on YouTube doesn’t think I can rebuild this blower lol.

 

[AngrySailor]

Undercut the back of the set back plate 1/2” deep, there’s room for plug wires and and decent sweep for timing adjustment now. Just have to profile the front of the plate and radius some corners to pretty it up, I’m not going to machine the blower discharge opening until I return from work, that way it will act as a block off plate to keep any dirt or shit out of the engine. I’m heading out Tuesday for 6 weeks, as I’m leaving it the long block is all assembled, still waiting on my oil pan from Armando’s, blower parts are in the works. Should be up and running not long after I return from work in April.

 

[fastenuff3]

Hmm, though I had about an extra 0.3xx” to drop the distributor down cuz it’s a tall deck block but I just checked my short deck blower manifold against the tall deck manifold and it looks like someone’s already machined the distributor seat to allow use of a short deck distributor on a tall deck… I was going to machine the collar off this distributor and put a slip collar on, I still might just to dial in the gear pattern but I won’t gain that 5/16” clearance under the blower/set back plate.

Some idiot on YouTube doesn’t think I can rebuild this blower lol.

THEY BOTH USE THE SAME DISTRIBUTOR. I WORKED IN A TRUCK SHOP AND WORKED ON A TON OF 427 FARM TRUCKS.

 

[AngrySailor]

THEY BOTH USE THE SAME DISTRIBUTOR. I WORKED IN A TRUCK SHOP AND WORKED ON A TON OF 427 FARM TRUCKS.

Huh, I’ve worked a couple of them GM 366/427 talk decks but never exchanged the distributor, also don’t have a factory manifold or distributor kicking around from one either to compare. Not doubting you but They list “tall deck” distributors online so I figured the collar distance was the difference but they were the same otherwise? It will fit but it’s snug! I’ll blue the pattern in on the gears to make sure it’s running in the middle and can put a slip collar if it needs any tweaking. The last farm truck I worked on many years ago came in for a “miss”, the “seasonal workers” had a tendency to downshift about 8 gears in one shot and it had a rod hanging out the side. Buddy drove it away when I told him he needed a new engine…

 

[AngrySailor]

Back to work, 24,000hr overhaul on this 1050Kw generator set.

 

[AngrySailor]

Liners, rods and pistons installed, heads set on have to hydraulically tension their studs next then I’ll install the new turbocharger tomorrow while the oiler cleans the crankcase sump. After that I’ll install all the jewelry like injectors and rocker gear. They want this running on Sunday… Sheiit…

 

[AngrySailor]

Got my pan from Armando’s. Got a shit show with this generator engine… one of our assistants labeled a piston wrong, there’s only a tiny mark that indicates orientation and we all missed the mistake on assembly. I could not feel any contact piston to valve as I turned the engine over with the barring gear to set the valves as its mass and alternator mass is so heavy you’d never feel a light touch. I started the engine and immediately shut it down due to a noise/knock. I was overridden by the chief and 2nd and they ran the engine for almost 40 mins against my protest and it blew up. Big investigation, I was interviewed for 2 1/2 hours by the office technical engineer lol. Anyways I’m gold because I had everything logged and data logged by the computer monitoring system, had firm answers as to what exactly happened, how, and the timeline, documented my protest. Anyways pretty sure the 2nd is going to hang as there is a cool half million in damages. Wrecked a brand new $100k turbo, debris all through the engine. I’m pulling it down last couple weeks cleaning oil galleries and behind the main bearing shells now. I told them they were going to turn a little problem into a big one and boy did they ever. We could have pulled the piston, oriented it the right way and installed our spare head while the other was serviced and we would have been good for $300 gaskets and a few hours labor but now it’s a mess… can’t wait to get out of here and back to my shop.

 

[AngrySailor]

Looks like I’m picking up a set of 29% gears too

 

[AngrySailor]

Been inspecting main bearings on this generator engine, the guys are cleaning all the parts as we go, found the busted valve head in the scavenge trunk. Couple weeks left of this BS then heading back to my shop get this blower rebuilt and hopefully fire up that 598 while I’m home.

 

[AngrySailor]

29’s in the mail! Thanks JJ!

 

[AngrySailor]

Heck yeah! Blower parts ordered and might ship tomorrow. Bearings, seals, teflon, gears,
Seals, snout bearings and seals too. Once I get home I’ll machine the rotors for gasoline clearance and slam her together.

 

[AngrySailor]

29% Gears arrived, thanks JJ! Awesome packaging too. One of the other ships at the yard is having a worse time with their generator than we are… dirty old CAT melted down a bearing, blew up and caught fire on the Dorothy Ann’s barge. They have our CPP hub all rebuilt, propeller installed and hanging the rudder today. We’re supposed to sail April 7th.

 

[AngrySailor]

Work trying to sucker me into staying until may 1st… not gonna happen. Think the new crewing girl is confused! Hoping to be headed home in two weeks. Blower parts arriving to my location tomorrow, just in time before we sail. Got my oil pan here and was thinking about oil cooling. I’m considering TIG welding a sheet metal water jacket around the sump area and piping the outlet from my heat exchanger (fresh water loop) through the jacket to cool the oil. This would eliminate an external cooler and the lines and restrictions that come with one…

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Work trying to sucker me into staying until may 1st… not gonna happen. Think the new crewing girl is confused! Hoping to be headed home in two weeks. Blower parts arriving to my location tomorrow, just in time before we sail. Got my oil pan here and was thinking about oil cooling. I’m considering TIG welding a sheet metal water jacket around the sump area and piping the outlet from my heat exchanger (fresh water loop) through the jacket to cool the oil. This would eliminate an external cooler and the lines and restrictions that come with one…

That would be badass if you have room between the pan and the bottom of the boat!

 

[AngrySailor]

That would be badass if you have room between the pan and the bottom of the boat!

I have about 4” of room front and back, that’s with the engine sitting level with the stringers. It’s that more than normal? I have no other V drive boats anywhere near me to compare the build against. I was thinking a pretty thin jacket, maybe 1/4” layer of water passing around the whole bottom of the pan. That way it’s not holding a ton of extra water and would stay pretty compact. I don’t think there’s any issue with some decent welding, I guess the difference would be that any small leak would not be countered by oil pressure as it would be if the leak was in an oil cooler, oil would pass to the water, not water into the oil. I’m thinking the fresh water loop will run a low pressure rad cap with a small expansion tank mounted up near the distributor and plumbed into one of the rear head outlets in the manifold as this would be my highest point for filling/venting air.

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

I would be concerned with using the pan as a wall for the water.

 

[AngrySailor]

Went back to the ship with dry ice (on my vacation time) and fit the small end bushings for the guys. They didn’t want to do it (or know how…). Picked up my parts for the blower and V drive gears while I was there.

 

[AngrySailor]

Working on the 14-71 today. Got new gears, seals and teflon valley strips. The old gears were hot on one side and teeth chewed up. I’ve indicated the rotors and the new gears installed temporarily on the rotors. The drive rotor gear has about 0.003-0.004” runout radially and axially, the driven rotor gears is pretty much true. Both rotors when indicated on the periphery of the lobes have virtually no run out. I don’t think the rotors themselves are bent but she took a backfire or something at some point as the drive coupler bolts are all slightly bent. This thing will be in retirement mode at 7-10 psi boost and 10% underdrive, it was on an NHRA pro-mod and run hard before I got my hands on it…

 

[AngrySailor]

Is anyone running these GPS Speedo’s in their V drives? Are they holding up to the vibration? I put a chineesium electric tach in last summer cuz I didn’t have a cable for my mechanical and it fell apart after 10hrs…

 

[AngrySailor]

Deburring the valley strip groves and cleaning things up. Getting ready to pull some Teflon strip in soon. The old gears were shot… I gotta change out the bearings and assemble enough to measure for end clearances then machine the rotors to length for gasoline clearance.

 

[AngrySailor]

Drive end clearances set. That’s it for the night.

 

[HAP]

Is anyone running these GPS Speedo’s in their V drives? Are they holding up to the vibration? I put a chineesium electric tach in last summer cuz I didn’t have a cable for my mechanical and it fell apart after 10hrs… View attachment 1496242

Those gauges are pretty solid. I have that same one and the corresponding tach, oil press/temp and water press/temp. No problems at all. I just wish the tach had a max recall. I bought a separate max RPM recall that runs off of the distributor signal. The AFR gauge is very helpful with tunning my dominator carb to start and run like a 4150 series. However, what I ultimately learned is that I can't look at any of them at all when hauling ass. If I really want to get readings, have to set my GoPro up to video them instruments.

R,
HAP

 

[HAP]

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Crafty fella you are! Most aren’t servicing their own blowers!

 

[AngrySailor]

View attachment 1496603
View attachment 1496604
View attachment 1496605

She’s a beauty! I have to think about filling my dash in and reorganizing the gauges if I want to add a speedo. I was going to put gas gauges maybe down on the stringer as they’re not something you need to see while driving much. I’ve got tach, oil and water rn, at least would like to add a boost gauge and thinking about the speedo whether it’s necessary or “cool” enough to justify cutting another hole.

How did you make out with your dominator? I’ve been running one on the street and the boat for ages. Took a lot of air bleed tuning to get the off idle slot right but it runs great. I’ve had real good luck with no power valves and I prefer the 1:1 primary/secondary linkage. I had a progressive and it just wouldn’t transition well even after a ton of dyno time and tweaking.

 

[HAP]

You certainly dive far deeper than most I would guess. I have the 2 circuit 1050 and for my rig I feel it’s tuned adequate. Everyone was warning that it will not idle and would be temperamental all the time. The wide-band AF meter and engine mounted vacuum gauge has been what I need to get basic tune. The GPS speedometer offer a lot of cool features. Too speed recall is my favorite. The trip meter and odometer are useful. Just the manual gas gauges on each tank. Having a good voltmeter that can measure tenths is all so nice when you have a lot of electric stuff. But, the AFR is well worth drilling a hole for…
R,
HAP

 

[AngrySailor]

Crafty fella you are! Most aren’t servicing their own blowers!

Thanks. It’s a matter of necessity really. It would cost a small fortune even to ship it to California and back plus the repairs. I got some good help from Kurt at BDS, Brendan Murry at performance and Andy at Forced induction. Today I TIG welded a small axial crack from the dowel pin in one rotor and blended it out, set the rear clearance, had to take about 0.008” off the back of the rotors to get 0.024” rear end clearance and finished cleaning of the valley grooves. As this is a low boost (10psi max on my best available fuel and 6-7psi on pump gas) we’re looking for reliability more than tight sealing. The valley dovetail grooves have been beat up by years of restripping and might not hold the strips real well at the end so we decided to leave the valley strips about 1/2” short of the end of the rotors to make sure they stay in good. At this point I am basically ready for cleaning, pull the strips in and stake them in a little then set the timing and she’s done.

I have the big alcohol pump that came with this blower and hat if anyone can use it, Enderle 110-990, too big for blown gas.

 

[AngrySailor]

You certainly dive far deeper than most I would guess. I have the 2 circuit 1050 and for my rig I feel it’s tuned adequate. Everyone was warning that it will not idle and would be temperamental all the time. The wide-band AF meter and engine mounted vacuum gauge has been what I need to get basic tune. The GPS speedometer offer a lot of cool features. Too speed recall is my favorite. The trip meter and odometer are useful. Just the manual gas gauges on each tank. Having a good voltmeter that can measure tenths is all so nice when you have a lot of electric stuff. But, the AFR is well worth drilling a hole for…
R,
HAP

I am running Zoomies rn so that kinda dinks me on an AFR gauge. I could put my long tubes on if I just can’t seem to dial it in. This is the first mechanical injection I’ve personally owned, I’ve tuned one or two MANY years ago at a shop I worked at with a chassis dyno but it’s been ages and all we did was a couple pill changes and tweak the k valve linkage. Kinsler sent me the gas K valve barrel along with gas nozzles, nozzle jet assortment, pills, bypasses and a pump. Was just going to start fat, read plugs and sneak up on it until it clears out. Gas has suck an arrow tuning window compared to alcohol and will likely be a pill change day to day with weather changes throughout the season.

I’d have to look at the room available but could put the Speedo more towards the passenger side, eye candy for them. Just need to make sure the layout looks right.

 

[AngrySailor]

Rebuilding a little CAT/hercules engine for a forklift which is seriously cutting into my build time. Finally managed to clock in the timing cover for the modern fuel pump register. Next I’ll remove the timing cover, indicate that temporary aluminum rings dialed on my mill, remove it and bore the 2.125” register along with drilling the new pattern. Slowly winning…

 

[AngrySailor]

Timing cover machined, water pump and fuel pump mounted. The river rat pump has some odd ball bolt pattern and I was just able to clock it in where no holes interfered with the pre drilled holes on the pump extension. Just need to make a slug to place in the hex drive now to control camshaft end play. Oil pan temporarily fitted, my alternator will fit with this pan if I space the pulleys out 3/8” which isn’t too bad, will have a 3/8” spacer on the crank and an 1 1/4” spacer on the blower for things to line up nice. Now gotta paint the cover and oil pan before final assembly.

 

[MOUZER]

Great lookin float! @ Clank123 as well as numerous people on here are very knowledgeable. Your questions will most likely be answered on this site. Welcome aboard!

Who's clank 123 don't know the guy..