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Wife’s 2010 Yukon 6.2 will not turn over

liquid addiction

liquid addiction

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We taking a trip in the wife’s Yukon this weekend. It was running fine other than hearing a small tick that would happen intermittently. First time I noticed it. We stopped to eat and when I started it to leave, it started and made a few louder noises and stopped. It wouldn’t crank after that, it locked up. I recently replaced the transmission so I was thinking a TC bolt backed out. After having it towed, I check the TC bolts and everything was good. Pulled the bolts and the motor will only rotate about 2/3 rotation and hits something inside. I have heard of problems with the 6.2, but this was running good before we stopped. No knocking before and not signs of holes or damage in the pan. Any thoughts from the experts?
 
ltbaney1

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direct from the Google machine. buddie just got a recall on his 2024 about catastrauphic engine failure. called the dealer and they told him drive until it happens, its warrantied and a known issue.

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DWRAT

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Most likely a rod but honestly it could be anything.
Only way to know is pull it apart.
 
monkeyswrench

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Usually the earlier 6.2's have less issues. Does sound like a rod has left the chat though if it only spins a little in each direction. With a valve, usually they'll rotate quite a bit, almost TDC to almost TDC...when the piston hits the pieces. :(
 
Deckin Around

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liquid addiction said:
We taking a trip in the wife’s Yukon this weekend. It was running fine other than hearing a small tick that would happen intermittently. First time I noticed it. We stopped to eat and when I started it to leave, it started and made a few louder noises and stopped. It wouldn’t crank after that, it locked up. I recently replaced the transmission so I was thinking a TC bolt backed out. After having it towed, I check the TC bolts and everything was good. Pulled the bolts and the motor will only rotate about 2/3 rotation and hits something inside. I have heard of problems with the 6.2, but this was running good before we stopped. No knocking before and not signs of holes or damage in the pan. Any thoughts from the experts?
Click to expand...

How many miles on it? That info will better help me make my uneducated guess.👌🏻
 
coolchange

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If you can roll the motor over by hand, turn it over and stop. Then run it around the other way. That can give you some idea. Pull the plugs and look at them.
At any rate, I’m sorry to say one of your problems is there’s probably too Many parts in there.
 
Bigbore500r

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liquid addiction said:
We taking a trip in the wife’s Yukon this weekend. It was running fine other than hearing a small tick that would happen intermittently. First time I noticed it. We stopped to eat and when I started it to leave, it started and made a few louder noises and stopped. It wouldn’t crank after that, it locked up. I recently replaced the transmission so I was thinking a TC bolt backed out. After having it towed, I check the TC bolts and everything was good. Pulled the bolts and the motor will only rotate about 2/3 rotation and hits something inside. I have heard of problems with the 6.2, but this was running good before we stopped. No knocking before and not signs of holes or damage in the pan. Any thoughts from the experts?
Click to expand...

Have you checked to see if the starter bendix is retracted and not stuck in the flexplate? I've seen starters fail and do wierd stuff, but usually they just stick in the "extended" position and make a bunch of noise when the engine fires up. Worth a check though.....

If that's not it - Have the valve covers popped off and make sure all the valves are valve springs are still in place and there's no signs of it having dropped a seat or hanging a valve due to a broken spring or other calamity. If something happened in the valvetrain at idle speed sometimes you get lucky and the shortblock / pistons survive. Either way - you'll end up taking the heads off to investigate and see whats happening, but that's the first place i'd start
 
liquid addiction

liquid addiction

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Bigbore500r said:
Have you checked to see if the starter bendix is retracted and not stuck in the flexplate? I've seen starters fail and do wierd stuff, but usually they just stick in the "extended" position and make a bunch of noise when the engine fires up. Worth a check though.....

If that's not it - Have the valve covers popped off and make sure all the valves are valve springs are still in place and there's no signs of it having dropped a seat or hanging a valve due to a broken spring or other calamity. If something happened in the valvetrain at idle speed sometimes you get lucky and the shortblock / pistons survive. Either way - you'll end up taking the heads off to investigate and see whats happening, but that's the first place i'd start
Click to expand...
I have blown up a few race motors. Some of them give a little warning. And some don’t. This one literally went from running fine when we parked to not running when we tried to start back up to leave. I am leaning towards replacing the motor since I just did the transmission. The body and interior are excellent and I don’t want a $1000 a month payment. I chalk this up with “owning old shit”.
 
monkeyswrench

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As stupid as it may sound, pull the belt and try turning the motor. I have actually seen on two occasions where 1) an AC compressor and 2) an alternator...have had catastrophic failures that kept the starter from being able to rotate the motor.
 
Bigbore500r

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liquid addiction said:
I have blown up a few race motors. Some of them give a little warning. And some don’t. This one literally went from running fine when we parked to not running when we tried to start back up to leave. I am leaning towards replacing the motor since I just did the transmission. The body and interior are excellent and I don’t want a $1000 a month payment. I chalk this up with “owning old shit”.
Click to expand...
If it is dead....at least 180k miles was a good run!
 
liquid addiction

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monkeyswrench said:
As stupid as it may sound, pull the belt and try turning the motor. I have actually seen on two occasions where 1) an AC compressor and 2) an alternator...have had catastrophic failures that kept the starter from being able to rotate the motor.
Click to expand...
I took it to my son’s friends place that has a lift. I pulled the TC bolts and turned it over at the balancer bolt. I wanted to uncouple the motor from the trans. Still locked up after about 2/3 of a revolution in both directions.
 
boatpi

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Time to sell on craigslist and get another one
 
zhandfull

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Long shot but could it be hydro locked. Bad injector flooding a cylinder.
 
jetboatperformance

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liquid addiction said:
We taking a trip in the wife’s Yukon this weekend. It was running fine other than hearing a small tick that would happen intermittently. First time I noticed it. We stopped to eat and when I started it to leave, it started and made a few louder noises and stopped. It wouldn’t crank after that, it locked up. I recently replaced the transmission so I was thinking a TC bolt backed out. After having it towed, I check the TC bolts and everything was good. Pulled the bolts and the motor will only rotate about 2/3 rotation and hits something inside. I have heard of problems with the 6.2, but this was running good before we stopped. No knocking before and not signs of holes or damage in the pan. Any thoughts from the experts?
Click to expand...
we inspect at least one or two a week for various engine failures , sorry to hear of this
 
welldigger00

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Oh shit man. I just put almost 10 grand into my 2015 Tahoe, and it was just valvetrain, and ginger bread. I can’t imagine what a long block is gonna cost you. sounds like you’ve got the skillz to r&r that bitch yourself.
 
DarkHorseRacing

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I can tell you what engine replacement is going to cost. 12k for the engine and about 5.5k in labor from a dealer.

If you want remanufactured, its about $7k for the long block, plus you get to pay the core charge and shipping. Who you decide to do the labor its probably about 30 hours.
 
Dalton

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liquid addiction said:
I took it to my son’s friends place that has a lift. I pulled the TC bolts and turned it over at the balancer bolt. I wanted to uncouple the motor from the trans. Still locked up after about 2/3 of a revolution in both directions.
Click to expand...

Did you take the belt off?
 
R

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Eliminate the hydrolock question - pull the plugs and spin her over. Otherwise sounds deeper into the bottom end.
 
Big B Hova

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I bet the #6 cylinder connecting rod bearing cap cracked .0876" from the bolt closest to the passenger side of the motor, sending the piston right in to the cylinder head and the shrapnel under it jammed up the rotation.


















Could be anything, gotta tear into it!
 
attitude

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Over 40 posts and not a single “Have you tried a different prop” comment?

DILLIGAF’s thread might of had some impact on the inmates.
 
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