Woodworkers . . . Need some blade advice on cutting 1/8" Teak Plywood.

[Desert Whaler]

So I've got a little hack project / band-aid going on my little rig.
Long story short, the gelcoat on the dash of the console I built is cracked to shit.
I'm not going to try to salvage it by doing the repairs the right way and re-gelcoat it . . . especially now when the season is just getting going.
I picked up a 24" x 24" piece of 1/8" teak plywood that I'm going to cover the whole dash with and call it good.

I'd like to make the cuts as clean as reasonably possible on my table saw and was looking at some blades.
Contenders so far are the Diablo 50 tooth , the WEN 60 tooth, and the Bauer 60 tooth.
I'm not dropping RDP baller money on a hand forged damascus steel blade from Austria that I'm only going to use once . . . I'd just like to avoid making it look like I used a dull chain saw.

Any rec's or experience with those 3 or something similar would be appreciated.

I'll post some pics of the carnage once I tear into it . . . . I'm tring to get everything prepped in advance to minimize down time.

TIA

 

[ltbaney1]

as the son of a finish carpenter and hobbiest woodworker, ignore that 50 tooth blade. higher tooth count = better but slower cut. something like below. if you have only have a couple cuts to make the 60 tooth should suffice with little issue.

Freud® LU85R Industrial Ultimate Cut-Off Saw Blades

This superior blade gives glass-smooth finishes when crosscutting hard and soft woods, so no sanding is required.

www.rockler.com

 

[braindead]

We've had good luck with the Diablo, never touched the others. But for fine cuts with less blow out get more teeth and go slow.

We run these on skilsaws when cutting plywood and it does good, wanna say it's 60 tooth

 

[lbhsbz]

More teeth = more better cut.

More important is the fence your tablesaw....pretty much every portable saw I've played with that doesn't say BOSCH or DEWALT on it is a piece of shit with a flimsy garbage fence. Get the fence straight, or clamp down a piece of something stout and straight to make a fence that's straight....have about 1" or so of blade sticking up past the workpiece, and you'll get a pretty good cut with most blades.

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

We've had good luck with the Diablo, never touched the others. But for fine cuts with less blow out get more teeth and go slow.

We run these on skilsaws when cutting plywood and it does good, wanna say it's 60 tooth

^^^this

And tape both sides of the wood where you'll be cuttingn̈ so you'll be cutting the tape as well. And don't go to slow, you'll burn the wood. Push the wood through steady and even start to finish. No jerking or stopping while cutting.

 

[Outdrive1]

Why not a jig saw with some fine tooth blades?

 

[SoCalDave]

Just put a Diablo 80 tooth on my Dewalt table saw to rip some melamine board and it cut it like butter. Not one chip of the melamine. Was $50 @ HD.
Like others stated finer tooth for thinner material = better results.

 

[yz450mm]

@whiteworks

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

Everyone is talking tooth count without knowing the diameter of the blade. I assume an 8" if so a 50t would work fine. 10" yes closer to 80t.

 

[Desert Whaler]

Everyone is talking tooth count without knowing the diameter of the blade. I assume an 8" if so a 50t would work fine. 10" yes closer to 80t.

Oops . . . forgot that detail . . . . 10".

 

[Icky]

Make a pattern and use a Router?

 

[Backlash]

Why not a jig saw with some fine tooth blades?

I think you'd be hard pressed to find a jigsaw or jigsaw blade that would cut a clean 90° cut in wood that hard. The blade tends to walk a little bit and doesn't leave a square cut. Table saw with an accurate fence and a dialed in blade is money!

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

I think you'd be hard pressed to find a jigsaw or jigsaw blade that would cut a clean 90° cut in wood that hard. The blade tends to walk a little bit and doesn't leave a square cut. Table saw with an accurate fence and a dialed in blade is money!

If someone were to use a jigsaw, make sure its a "down cut" blade.

 

[lbhsbz]

If someone were to use a jigsaw, make sure its a "down cut" blade.

Thats what I use for carving pumpkins lol

 

[Outdrive1]

I think you'd be hard pressed to find a jigsaw or jigsaw blade that would cut a clean 90° cut in wood that hard. The blade tends to walk a little bit and doesn't leave a square cut. Table saw with an accurate fence and a dialed in blade is money!

I’m thinking dash board with rounded or angled lines I guess if it’s a square cut a table saw would be best. A skill saw would work too and you could make a fence with clamps and a straight edge. That being said you could make a fence for a jigsaw for a long straight cut also

 

[SoCalDave]

Everyone is talking tooth count without knowing the diameter of the blade. I assume an 8" if so a 50t would work fine. 10" yes closer to 80t.

 

[bonesfab]

The more teeth the better.. Just like life.

 

[braindead]

The more teeth the better.. Just like life.

You sure about that

Sorry @DILLIGAF

 

[Cray Paper]

You want the teeth of the saw blade to hit the finish face of the wood first, if it blows out on the backside no one will see it.
When cutting down pre finished doors we scribe the finish veneer with a sharp razor knife and straight edge then cut right below it.

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

The more teeth the better.. Just like life.

That could be debatable

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

You sure about that


View attachment 1508168
Sorry @DILLIGAF

Exactly.. beat me to it

 

[whiteworks]

10”, 80 tooth, thin kerf. Feed it slow and you should be fine.

12” 220 saw with thin kerf high tooth count is ideal for cross cutting without blow out. If you want to go down the rabbit hole here is a diagram of differnt tooth profiles you can research

Here is a link to a reasonably priced blade. This blade will be fine for limited production like what you are looking to do.

Amazon.com