cj222
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- May 18, 2010
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Machined the plate pads
For some reason I really dig these big Lemans style gas filler caps. Keep that old school look. View attachment 1350968 View attachment 1350969 View attachment 1350970
When I build my tanks I am going to put in a fitting for a vent and make a hard line pig tail like I did for my Roger'sDrill some extra breather holes in the caps I will send some pics of mine
Thank youDamn dude! looks awesome!
Thanks bud!keep up the good work sir !!! looks great
Looks cool but may make it harder to rinse out? Are you going to relocate water pickup?Trying something different from backing washers for the blast plate bolts. Not sure I like it lol. View attachment 1361691 View attachment 1361692 View attachment 1361693
I agree. I will be capping that pickup and running two pickups off the cav plates.Looks cool but may make it harder to rinse out? Are you going to relocate water pickup?
Yeah I wasn't thinking about that part.Very cool idea to do something different than just stringer washers, but I agree with the two posts above this. It will be a pain in the ass to keep clean.
I agree with you. I wasn't thinking about that part of it lolThat looks Bitchen. In my experience with vdrives, they leak both oil and water, no matter how much effort you put into it. Eventually this is the case. So, every time you pull the boat out of the lake, and drain the water out of the bilge, you are left with the sludge that you wipe down every time, and I’d think it’ll catch in those pockets, and will take extra work. Just my opinion…
I like where you're going with this but...that's more work than I want to do on this old canoe lolSince you already cut them out, maybe keep the backing plates and build around them.
Here is an idea.... This will take some time and money and it's completely worthless, but here's what I would do. Make them a focal point.
Trace out patterns on 1/4" thick end grain balsa, in the same shapes of the spaces on your backing plates. Make the patterns on the balsa 1/2" smaller than the openings of the backing plates. You'll need to do this to leave room for some layers of fiberglass. Glass in the balsa so that they will be placed in the openings on the plates. Gelcoat the bilge, put clear over the balsa to show it off then polish everything up. Once done, re-install your backing plates.
With the balsa pieces glassed in and poking up through the spaces on your backing plates, that dead space will essentially be taken up by the balsa core and the fiberglass. There will still be stuff collecting in this area, but it won't be as much.
Or just throw your beautiful freshly cut backing plates in the scrap pile and forget about my lame-ass idea.
It's all in the details my friend!I like where you're going with this but...that's more work than I want to do on this old canoe lol
Pretty sure they will end up in the scrap pile lol
It's not bad. I did the same thing in my Roger's. Plus I don't stand in the boat much.looks good but going to be hot. Should have gotten the tintable Raptor and did it in yellow.
I sprayed it. I had ordered a 4 bottle spray kit and that only did half the boat. I happened to find another 4 bottle kit at Orileys and was able to finish the boat same night@cj222 How did you install it? Roll it or spray it?
Picked up some 6061 3"x5"x1/4" angle that I'll rip down to 2-1/4" wide and 1/4"x5" flat bar to do full stringer length wrap. View attachment 1369117 View attachment 1369118 View attachment 1369119
I am going to leave the two pieces separate.I know how much you enjoy welding, so I have to ask. Are you going to rip the angle to the correct width, then weld the flat stock to the ripped edge to creat a narrow "C channel" to drop down onto the stringer? Or are you leaving the plate separate from the angle and bolting them to the stringers as two pieces? Both would work fine, just curious what your thought process is.
(That would be a lot to tig, but would be pretty trick if you were planning to go that route.)
I am honestly planning to run the pickups off the plates lol I like the looklooking great! My Dad always ran the water pick ups just ahead and off the prop, we really only went to Kings River from 1970' to early 1990's. You get so much sand up there and having the pic ups off the plates behind the prop really fill everything up with sand. I also like to see as little plumbing as possible. I know 99% of vdrives are picking up off the plate, but just tossing my two cents in as your plate hardware so sano why toss more in...
Thank you! The top was really bad so I used a product called Buff Magic by Shurhold to bring it back to life. Then I used Meguiars Marine/RV one step compound for my final pass. I hit the sides with the Meguiars only.Looks really good! What products are you using? My Howard has a bit of cloudiness on the wood grain and I'd like to try to get it out.
I used a wool padVery cool thanks for the info, are you using a wool pad with the Meguiars or more of a finishing pad?
Thank you!Yes
39÷32=1.21875 or just shy of 22% overdrive.
Dan'l
It could be a good start for you. the shallower V of your hull should take less HP to move. I'm currently running 22% in my 21' with 700hp.Will this be a good gear setup for roughly 650-700hp
I have a 7.5 degree strut. I've seen some setup with a little degree down in the driveline u-joint to keep the engine down a bit. Is that a bad thing?It could be a good start for you. the shallower V of your hull should take less HP to move. I'm currently running 22% in my 21' with 700hp.
Also the 1.98 is the date code to make sure they are a matched set.Yours look like January 1998 mfg. date.
What Shaft/Strut angle are you trying to attain? You have a 12 degree V-Drive so if you are trying for a lower degree you will have to tilt the engine more and it will be higher in the boat. Just more to think about for your set-up.