Boat starter question..

[Skee]

Ok :blah:

 

[McRib]

Just walk in with the starter and tell them to cross ref the part number stamped on it (if it has one) I figured a 460 is a 460. Prob only one starter for all models that came with a 460.

 

[Outdrive1]

Is it top mount?

 

[Outdrive1]

Take a pic of it and I will look you up a part number that they can cross.

 

[blackbart]

I have a question,hopefully one of you'se guyz can help me out... I need a starter for my 77 Spectra 18 with a 460... I'm not a "baller",so I can't afford a super expensive one ..so I was just gonna go to the Zone...:rolleyes...The question is...How do I get them to look me one up? I mean what kinda vehicle?:rolleyes I just pulled the old one out and even tho it's a Ford engine...it say's American Motors on it.... Can I just tell them to look like an old Fordt truck or something? Thanks....

have them check the stater first to make shure thats the problem grounds are the problem alot if it looke like an old ford stater just tell them 76 460 and compare

 

[CampbellCarl]

'77 Ford F-250.

 

[boatdoc55]

Bart....The battery is new,the solenoid is new,as are both of the cables....it starts fine when it's cool...once it
s warmed up the starter doesn't work so well :rolleyes And Thanks for the help everyone..it was pretty easy! :thumbsup

Your starter is shot. Stick a perma mag on it instead of the big and heavy OEM style and it will be much better for you. They are a gear reduction starter and deliver much more cranking power than the oem. Call the guys at DB Electrical and they'll help you out. 800-753 2242 Have your starter off so you can describe it to them.

 

[jetboatmatt]

I had a 460 for 14 years and just got mine at AutoZone. Lifetime warranty and they replaced it three times!!!! It got wet quite a bit being down in the bottom of the boat!! Hahaha anyway just tell them and show them yours and your good to go!! Cheap and works perfect! I also had 13:1 compression and it did fine!!! Good luck

 

[sleek460]

never seen one that said American motors, that being said AMC used ford starters and ignitions

 

[HPBoats83]

Where are you located? I would just have yours rebuilt instead of buying one from Autozone

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 4

 

[RUNNINHOTRACING163.1]

have them check the stater first to make shure thats the problem grounds are the problem alot if it looke like an old ford stater just tell them 76 460 and compare

:thumbup:





http://www.offshoreonly.com/classif...d_lifted_lariet_lots_of_extras-o53169-en.html


http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-BOAT-DR..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item2c6a7d116a&vxp=mtr



http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLUE-4-LED-...568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6fd92428

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BOAT-TR..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item3cb4089d56&vxp=mtr



ROCK ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ITS A SKATER NATION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[BoatCop]

Hope you enjoy driving around a bomb.

Marine starters are shielded to prevent the sparks from igniting any fuel vapors in the engine compartment. Same with alternators and distributors.

All of those things create sparks in normal operation. There are mesh screens in any openings on marine units so that when the sparks meet fuel vapors, the explosion is contained harmlessly within the component. That way your whole boat doesn't blow up.

And since you're in the habit of putting cheap automotive parts on your boat, chances are your fuel pump is also suspect. Meaning that when the diaphragm goes, it'll leak gas out of the weep hole into the bilge, rather than being being routed through the carb.

When it burns and the insurance adjuster comes out and discovers the Auto Zone stuff that you put on it, coverage will be denied.

I don't want to sound like an alarmist or anything, but in the dozens of boat fires/explosions I've investigated over the years, mostly in vintage boats, the cause is most often traced back to automotive parts.

With all the money we have sunk into our boats, why put it all in jeopardy over a hundred bucks or so?

So You have to ask yourself. Do you fell lucky?

 

[Froggystyle]

Hope you enjoy driving around a bomb.

Marine starters are shielded to prevent the sparks from igniting any fuel vapors in the engine compartment. Same with alternators and distributors.

All of those things create sparks in normal operation. There are mesh screens in any openings on marine units so that when the sparks meet fuel vapors, the explosion is contained harmlessly within the component. That way your whole boat doesn't blow up.

And since you're in the habit of putting cheap automotive parts on your boat, chances are your fuel pump is also suspect. Meaning that when the diaphragm goes, it'll leak gas out of the weep hole into the bilge, rather than being being routed through the carb.

When it burns and the insurance adjuster comes out and discovers the Auto Zone stuff that you put on it, coverage will be denied.

I don't want to sound like an alarmist or anything, but in the dozens of boat fires/explosions I've investigated over the years, mostly in vintage boats, the cause is most often traced back to automotive parts.

With all the money we have sunk into our boats, why put it all in jeopardy over a hundred bucks or so?

So You have to ask yourself. Do you fell lucky?

^^^This^^^

X1000. Don't fuck around with car parts. It is dangerous and likely... Not probable... But likely to cause an accident.

Grounded fuel fills, proper fuel pumps, proper alternators and starters. All that shit goes boom.

 

[BDMar]

Hope you enjoy driving around a bomb.

Marine starters are shielded to prevent the sparks from igniting any fuel vapors in the engine compartment. Same with alternators and distributors.

All of those things create sparks in normal operation. There are mesh screens in any openings on marine units so that when the sparks meet fuel vapors, the explosion is contained harmlessly within the component. That way your whole boat doesn't blow up.

And since you're in the habit of putting cheap automotive parts on your boat, chances are your fuel pump is also suspect. Meaning that when the diaphragm goes, it'll leak gas out of the weep hole into the bilge, rather than being being routed through the carb.

When it burns and the insurance adjuster comes out and discovers the Auto Zone stuff that you put on it, coverage will be denied.

I don't want to sound like an alarmist or anything, but in the dozens of boat fires/explosions I've investigated over the years, mostly in vintage boats, the cause is most often traced back to automotive parts.

With all the money we have sunk into our boats, why put it all in jeopardy over a hundred bucks or so?

So You have to ask yourself. Do you fell lucky?

100% Correct

 

[jetboatmatt]

Wow are guys kidding me right now!! My boat never leaked a drop of anything because I made sure it was tight as a drum!! I can see inside an enclosed engine hatch it could be a problem! Open engine you couldn't start a fire if you wanted too!! And by the way most engines back in the day were all automotive no marine shit at all!! 60's 70's!! My dad and all his friends did just fine!!
Have we come a long way sense than, sure but that doesn't mean the old way was wrong....
I say open engine hatch Auto zone would be just fine!! As long as your not leaking gas all over the place!! In which your headers would probly be the first ignition source anyway!!
If your really worried about it put silicon all over your connections!!
Again I had my boat 14 years ran the shit out of it as a young 21 year old and never had one issue.. Luck!! Not in my family!! Not everyone is rich and paying 300 for a stupid starter is ridiculous!! JMO!!

 

[Skee]

Wow are guys kidding me right now!! My boat never leaked a drop of anything because I made sure it was tight as a drum!! I can see inside an enclosed engine hatch it could be a problem! Open engine you couldn't start a fire if you wanted too!! And by the way most engines back in the day were all automotive no marine shit at all!! 60's 70's!! My dad and all his friends did just fine!!
Have we come a long way sense than, sure but that doesn't mean the old way was wrong....
I say open engine hatch Auto zone would be just fine!! As long as your not leaking gas all over the place!! In which your headers would probly be the first ignition source anyway!!
If your really worried about it put silicon all over your connections!!
Again I had my boat 14 years ran the shit out of it as a young 21 year old and never had one issue.. Luck!! Not in my family!! Not everyone is rich and paying 300 for a stupid starter is ridiculous!! JMO!!

Thank's jetboatmatt! I like and agree with your response 110%!! :thumbsup

 

[boatdoc55]

Thank's jetboatmatt! I like and agree with your response 110%!! :thumbsup

I've been a boat mechanic for longer than you've been probably alive and have
NEVER once put anything on a clients boat or my boats for that matter, that wasn't CG approved. Have you ever witnessed a boat explosion or seen a boat burn to the water line, not a pretty sight. That's why I recommended a marine starter earlier in your thread. I wish you well my friend!!!

 

[Froggystyle]

I've been a boat mechanic for longer than you've been probably alive and have
NEVER once put anything on a clients boat or my boats for that matter, that wasn't CG approved. Have you ever witnessed a boat explosion or seen a boat burn to the water line, not a pretty sight. That's why I recommended a marine starter earlier in your thread. I wish you well my friend!!!

My uncle had a 16' Tahiti sprint with a Mondello 455 Olds. Fuel pump went bad and had dripped some fuel into the bilge. Small amount. The second he hit the starter for the first time that day, on the launch ramp in Havasu, the boat exploded, hurting my cousin who was lucky to dive clear along with my uncle. Burned both of their hair quite a bit in back.

Then the boat burned to the waterline... Really grabbing a gear when it hit the fuel lines.

Every story I've heard of a non marine component causing a problem has been on an open engine compartment boat.

You would have to be truly ignorant to put car parts in a closed engine compartment. Or stupid. Your choice.

When you make a Molotov cocktail you don't fill the bottle with gas... You just put a splash in it. Way more explosive. The vapors are what blow up, and they are heavier than air, so they sink into the bilge, even on open boats.

 

[Sleek-Jet]

Bart....The battery is new,the solenoid is new,as are both of the cables....it starts fine when it's cool...once it
s warmed up the starter doesn't work so well :rolleyes And Thanks for the help everyone..it was pretty easy! :thumbsup

Put a set of brushes in it.

 

[BDMar]

Wow are guys kidding me right now!! My boat never leaked a drop of anything because I made sure it was tight as a drum!! I can see inside an enclosed engine hatch it could be a problem! Open engine you couldn't start a fire if you wanted too!! And by the way most engines back in the day were all automotive no marine shit at all!! 60's 70's!! My dad and all his friends did just fine!!
Have we come a long way sense than, sure but that doesn't mean the old way was wrong....
I say open engine hatch Auto zone would be just fine!! As long as your not leaking gas all over the place!! In which your headers would probly be the first ignition source anyway!!
If your really worried about it put silicon all over your connections!!
Again I had my boat 14 years ran the shit out of it as a young 21 year old and never had one issue.. Luck!! Not in my family!! Not everyone is rich and paying 300 for a stupid starter is ridiculous!! JMO!!

I usually check out when a tech thread goes sideways like this one. However, this is a matter of safety, so I am going to try once more.

A) As stated, it's not the fuel its the vapors (fumes), so yes, you absolutely can start a fire with no effort at all. You do not need to have a fuel leak to create fumes in the bilge. On carbureted engines, which is what the OP has, they are vented out of the float bowl vent tubes as long as there is fuel in the bowls. Period. Vapors are heavier than air and go straight into the bilge and lay there just waiting for an ignition source.

B) You are mistaken about back in the day. Aeromarine '60's, Hardin Marine and Harman Marine 70's, OMC, Mercury Marine, Volvo Penta, etc. used USCG parts. The few that didn't were the minority.

C) The headers would never be the first ignition source. It is the starter and alternator. (sparks)

D) Silicone over the connections..... not the problem. Again, it's the spark.

E) Marine starters aren't $300. A good bottom mount Ford Marine starter is about $200. Even if it was $300, what is a life worth? And on top of that, it will long outlast any Auto Zone starter pretty much making it a wash cost wise.

You have Boatcop who has no doubt first hand experience with boat explosions and the cause, Froggy, a very knowledgeable man and a past owner of a boat mfg company, Boatdoc, and myself, a 40 year marine mechanic with the highest level of certification you can achieve from Mercury Marine, all telling you it is life threatening. Seems like a lot of good advice to me.

This response is not pointed at anyone in this thread, even though I quoted a response. It's for the people reading this thread that might actually be swayed to purchase a part that could potentially cost them, a loved one,or bystander, their life.

 

[Outdrive1]

I usually check out when a tech thread goes sideways like this one. However, this is a matter of safety, so I am going to try once more.

A) As stated, it's not the fuel its the vapors (fumes), so yes, you absolutely can start a fire with no effort at all. You do not need to have a fuel leak to create fumes in the bilge. On carbureted engines, which is what the OP has, they are vented out of the float bowl vent tubes as long as there is fuel in the bowls. Period. Vapors are heavier than air and go straight into the bilge and lay there just waiting for an ignition source.

B) You are mistaken about back in the day. Aeromarine '60's, Hardin Marine and Harman Marine 70's, OMC, Mercury Marine, Volvo Penta, etc. used USCG parts. The few that didn't were the minority.

C) The headers would never be the first ignition source. It is the starter and alternator. (sparks)

D) Silicone over the connections..... not the problem. Again, it's the spark.

E) Marine starters aren't $300. A good bottom mount Ford Marine starter is about $200. Even if it was $300, what is a life worth? And on top of that, it will long outlast any Auto Zone starter pretty much making it a wash cost wise.

You have Boatcop who has no doubt first hand experience with boat explosions and the cause, Froggy, a very knowledgeable man and a past owner of a boat mfg company, Boatdoc, and myself, a 40 year marine mechanic with the highest level of certification you can achieve from Mercury Marine, all telling you it is life threatening. Seems like a lot of good advice to me.

This response is not pointed at anyone in this thread, even though I quoted a response. It's for the people reading this thread that might actually be swayed to purchase a part that could potentially cost them, a loved one,or bystander, their life.

I gotta agree. Liability wise you would never catch me using non marine parts on a boat.

A Mercruiser starter for a GM v8 is about 220, a brand Sierra or Mallory is in the high 100's.

300 would be the price of some outboard starters.

 

[mesquito_creek]

Is there any issues with taking your original marine starters and alternators to the trusty guy who rebuilds those for a fraction of the cost? I have always gone this route when possible, but I don't know if there is a downside to it.....

 

[BDMar]

Is there any issues with taking your original marine starters and alternators to the trusty guy who rebuilds those for a fraction of the cost? I have always gone this route when possible, but I don't know if there is a downside to it.....

No issues as long as they have access to the original or equivalent marine replacement parts.

 

[RiverDave]

I read Alan's post five times now and I can't put together why the harsh response towards him?

 

[Froggystyle]

I read Alan's post five times now and I can't put together why the harsh response towards him?

'Cause fuck the po-lice yo....

 

[Kleptow]

Hey dude here you go just have to wait a little longer but good to go and I would assume they are USCG Certified being sold as Marine starters.

A page full under a hundy take your pick.

(http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html...rter&_dmpt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&_rdc=2)

 

[boatpi]

Alan made a point and closed it with a Dirty Harry movie quote. It ain't worth a life and he has seen all to much of it lost.

 

[Skee]

I've been a boat mechanic for longer than you've been probably alive and have
NEVER once put anything on a clients boat or my boats for that matter, that wasn't CG approved. Have you ever witnessed a boat explosion or seen a boat burn to the water line, not a pretty sight. That's why I recommended a marine starter earlier in your thread. I wish you well my friend!!!

Mechanic longer than I've been alive? What...are ya like 75 or something? :eek (you don't know me or my age)

 

[Tommy Gun Images]

I don't always ask for advice... But when I do, I don't take it

 

[Tommy Gun Images]

Yeah...Thank's! :thumbup:

 

[jetboatmatt]

I usually check out when a tech thread goes sideways like this one. However, this is a matter of safety, so I am going to try once more.

A) As stated, it's not the fuel its the vapors (fumes), so yes, you absolutely can start a fire with no effort at all. You do not need to have a fuel leak to create fumes in the bilge. On carbureted engines, which is what the OP has, they are vented out of the float bowl vent tubes as long as there is fuel in the bowls. Period. Vapors are heavier than air and go straight into the bilge and lay there just waiting for an ignition source.

B) You are mistaken about back in the day. Aeromarine '60's, Hardin Marine and Harman Marine 70's, OMC, Mercury Marine, Volvo Penta, etc. used USCG parts. The few that didn't were the minority.

C) The headers would never be the first ignition source. It is the starter and alternator. (sparks)

D) Silicone over the connections..... not the problem. Again, it's the spark.

E) Marine starters aren't $300. A good bottom mount Ford Marine starter is about $200. Even if it was $300, what is a life worth? And on top of that, it will long outlast any Auto Zone starter pretty much making it a wash cost wise.

You have Boatcop who has no doubt first hand experience with boat explosions and the cause, Froggy, a very knowledgeable man and a past owner of a boat mfg company, Boatdoc, and myself, a 40 year marine mechanic with the highest level of certification you can achieve from Mercury Marine, all telling you it is life threatening. Seems like a lot of good advice to me.

This response is not pointed at anyone in this thread, even though I quoted a response. It's for the people reading this thread that might actually be swayed to purchase a part that could potentially cost them, a loved one,or bystander, their life.

I stand corrected!!! I must have been one lucky dude!!! Not trying to get anyone hurt or to steer them wrong. I have seen many boats Just like my old one with none Marine parts. Maybe they were all setup wrong, just never saw any of them have issues....

 

[jetboatmatt]

I always thought marine stuff was just water proofed as to not rust out!! After my third starter I was pretty over it!! I was going to go Marine when that went. It never did then Sold the boat..
Had no idea there were built in spark arresters inside starters!! Thanks for the education!! Moving on!!

 

[boatdoc55]

Mechanic longer than I've been alive? What...are ya like 75 or something? :eek (you don't know me or my age)

No, I'm not 75 years old, might feel like it sometimes, but used that language to try and instill what I and several others on this board have been hearing for well over 30 years. Auto parts on boats are NOT to be used. I hope you never have to see the aftermath of a boat explosion/fire, let alone be involved in one. My friend, it's not a very good deal. Please be safe, that's all I ask.

 

[boatdoc55]

I always thought marine stuff was just water proofed as to not rust out!! After my third starter I was pretty over it!! I was going to go Marine when that went. It never did then Sold the boat..
Had no idea there were built in spark arresters inside starters!! Thanks for the education!! Moving on!!

Not just starters. Starters, alternators, dist, fuel pumps, carbs and the list goes on. I don't like regulations any more than the next but the USCG ones I follow to a "T". Like froggy said about fuel fills, how many knew these are to be properly grounded.

 

[Froggystyle]

First of all...I'm gonna apologize to Boatcop...Anyway...I don't know why I even asked this question here... I have been boating for many many years..Hell..I myself have owned 11 different boats..covered hatch,uncovered hatch,outboard (mistake),dry stacks,wet stacks,inboard water cooled exhaust,inboard/outboard..I've pretty much had 'em all....I have been boating for over 35 years....I have had Marine parts,I have had Autozone parts AND I have had Alcohol (booze) in my boat,along with my kids and Family..all at the River the whole time....I have NEVER had a Safety issue....I have NEVER had an accident of any kind AND I have NEVER been bothered by the Po-Po....I guess what I'm trying to say here,is......I know how to boat,I know how to fix 'em (properly,without any issues) and I know what is right for not only Safety issues,but what it takes to fix a boat correctly too! I Thank you all for your input and I apologize for the thread going south.....Anyway,I put the Autozone starter in and I will leave it in as I have used them in the past and all is and has been good! My little Spectra has the hatch cover but also has a USCG approved fuel pump and air filter,also my vent fan work's excellent and is used properly EVERY TIME......I am ANAL about keeping my bilge area clean and leak free.....So,hopefully I will not "jinx" myself with this post and will continue to have a Safe and Fun boating experience as I have for many years.... I hope you all do too! Peace! Skee...

You should strongly reconsider using a non- marine starter in a closed engine hatch. I'll leave it at that.

 

[Classic Daycruiser]

You should strongly reconsider using a non- marine starter in a closed engine hatch. I'll leave it at that.

Starters and alternators, as well as fuel pumps. Fuel pumps need to be of marine type (double diaphragm).

 

[Tom Brown]

I'm pretty sure NAPA can source a marine starter for a 460.

 

[Tom Brown]

Wow are guys kidding me right now!! My boat never leaked a drop of anything because I made sure it was tight as a drum!! I can see inside an enclosed engine hatch it could be a problem! Open engine you couldn't start a fire if you wanted too!! And by the way most engines back in the day were all automotive no marine shit at all!! 60's 70's!!

Not true of the 70s.

I used to run the Classic Carlson web site and they had spark arrested starters and alternators back in the heyday of Carlson which was the 1970s. I don't know when it all started.

Marine carbs, at least the ones I know, are the same as automotive carbs with the exception of the vent tubes being curved in a "J" shape so flooded bowls will drain into the engine, instead of into the bilge.

These aren't big changes but they have undoubtedly saved countless lives.

Just because you have walked across the freeway while blindfolded and survived, doesn't mean it is a wise thing to do.

 

[jetboatmatt]

The truth is guys used to build up car motors and put them in boats!! Not all motors in boats were built from Manufactures.. Guys would build whatever they wanted! Some used marine stuff, I'm sure but I'm sure many didn't!! I know for a fact my dads motor was built by Keith Black, it was a Dodge 426 wedge with a cross ram manifold. He had two 750 Holly double pumper's and nothing was Marine certified. He had the Motor for 20 years and only had minor fixes the whole time he had it... It was the third boat ever built by Al Lavey. He built the boat in his garage in 1963 less Motor... I think it's great we have come a long way and have marine certified parts to keep us safe...
Maybe guys had plenty of time bombs ready to blow up at any given moment back in the day but I don't think they cared or knew it was so Dangerous..
I will say there really isn't any excuses not to use marine parts!! Hell I just put a 600 dollar amp in my boat the other day!! My new boat is all up to code by the way!! Hahahahh happy safe boating !!!

 

[Froggystyle]

OK...now my curiosity has got the best of me....If I were to look at an Autozone starter vs. a Marine starter (visually) what is the difference (from your perspective) that I'd be looking for? I am just curious to see what happen's here....

The marine certified ones will have "marine certified" on the box.

I don't build starters. This is pure speculation.

There would be additional shielding in the solenoid, and the A terminal on the inside isn't vented to the outside. I think it has a screen in the drain also.

I would wager the Bendix gear is non-steel so as not to spark when it engages as well.

 

[Sleek-Jet]

My Cutlass has a Prestolite marine starter on it because the 1973 Sleek-Craft the engine came out of had one.

Now it is entirely possible that in the intervening 30 years someone added a marine starter but I'd bet it came from Hardin equipped as such.

 

[BoatCop]

The Coast Guard just didn't wake up one morning and say: "Hey! Let's make some regulations that will make boat parts more expensive, just to fuck with boaters and boat builders."

There's are reasons that we, as marine enforcement officers, do accident investigations and reconstruction of boating mishaps. The main one being to make boating safer. Those investigations and resulting regulations, standards and laws have been responsible for reducing boating fatalities from around 1,700 in the early '70s to around 700 or fewer today, even while the number of boats and boaters have increased 10 fold. We went from 40 deaths per 100,000 boats in 1965 to 5 deaths per 100,000 boats today.

It's true that motorheads of the '50's and early '60s pioneered putting automotive engines in boats. It's also true that a lot of boats blew up. In reviewing those investigations it was discovered that automotive components, which inherently cause sparks in normal operation, were igniting fuel vapors, blowing up boats and killing and severely injuring people.

To reduce and hopefully prevent that, the Coast Guard introduced regulations, such as J tubes in carbs, screening in starters, distributors, alternators, and return tubes for fuel pumps. Not to mention fuel hoses and connections, electrical connections and bilge ventilation. And as a side note, marine techs who put or use those parts on their customer's boats are 100% liable for any fires, injuries, property damage and deaths caused by those parts. Owners who put them on their own boats are also liable for any injuries, etc. to their passengers in case of explosions or fire.

Can someone go a whole lifetime without marine equipment and not have an issue? Sure.

But do you want to take that chance? Do you want to purposely place your family and friends in danger? You may keep your bilge and engine compartment so immaculate you could eat off it, but anyone who's turned a wrench on an engine knows that shit happens. Even the pros, NASCAR, NHRA, F-1, etc., have leaks and fires. What makes any novice think that they are exempt?

I'll get off my soapbox now, and just say that hope that the next boat fire I, or my compadres, have to investigate isn't yours.

 

[Kleptow]

First of all...I'm gonna apologize to Boatcop...Anyway...I don't know why I even asked this question here... I have been boating for many many years..Hell..I myself have owned 11 different boats..covered hatch,uncovered hatch,outboard (mistake),dry stacks,wet stacks,inboard water cooled exhaust,inboard/outboard..I've pretty much had 'em all....I have been boating for over 35 years....I have had Marine parts,I have had Autozone parts AND I have had Alcohol (booze) in my boat,along with my kids and Family..all at the River the whole time....I have NEVER had a Safety issue....I have NEVER had an accident of any kind AND I have NEVER been bothered by the Po-Po....I guess what I'm trying to say here,is......I know how to boat,I know how to fix 'em (properly,without any issues) and I know what is right for not only Safety issues,but what it takes to fix a boat correctly too! I Thank you all for your input and I apologize for the thread going south.....Anyway,I put the Autozone starter in and I will leave it in as I have used them in the past and all is and has been good! My little Spectra has the hatch cover but also has a USCG approved fuel pump and air filter,also my vent fan work's excellent and is used properly EVERY TIME......I am ANAL about keeping my bilge area clean and leak free.....So,hopefully I will not "jinx" myself with this post and will continue to have a Safe and Fun boating experience as I have for many years.... I hope you all do too! Peace! Skee...

I just have to know how much you saved putting that Autozone starter in verses one of the links I posted?

 

[boatdoc55]

The Coast Guard just didn't wake up one morning and say: "Hey! Let's make some regulations that will make boat parts more expensive, just to fuck with boaters and boat builders."

There's are reasons that we, as marine enforcement officers, do accident investigations and reconstruction of boating mishaps. The main one being to make boating safer. Those investigations and resulting regulations, standards and laws have been responsible for reducing boating fatalities from around 1,700 in the early '70s to around 700 or fewer today, even while the number of boats and boaters have increased 10 fold. We went from 40 deaths per 100,000 boats in 1965 to 5 deaths per 100,000 boats today.

It's true that motorheads of the '50's and early '60s pioneered putting automotive engines in boats. It's also true that a lot of boats blew up. In reviewing those investigations it was discovered that automotive components, which inherently cause sparks in normal operation, were igniting fuel vapors, blowing up boats and killing and severely injuring people.

To reduce and hopefully prevent that, the Coast Guard introduced regulations, such as J tubes in carbs, screening in starters, distributors, alternators, and return tubes for fuel pumps. Not to mention fuel hoses and connections, electrical connections and bilge ventilation. And as a side note, marine techs who put or use those parts on their customer's boats are 100% liable for any fires, injuries, property damage and deaths caused by those parts. Owners who put them on their own boats are also liable for any injuries, etc. to their passengers in case of explosions or fire.

Can someone go a whole lifetime without marine equipment and not have an issue? Sure.

But do you want to take that chance? Do you want to purposely place your family and friends in danger? You may keep your bilge and engine compartment so immaculate you could eat off it, but anyone who's turned a wrench on an engine knows that shit happens. Even the pros, NASCAR, NHRA, F-1, etc., have leaks and fires. What makes any novice think that they are exempt?

I'll get off my soapbox now, and just say that hope that the next boat fire I, or my compadres, have to investigate isn't yours.

X2 Well Spoken and 100% correct!!!