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What's the quickest, easiest way to connect the boards to the fenders? Also will 1/4 plywood be good enough? Old fenders didn't have boards so I'm new to this
I'd use at least 3/8" plywood
Through bolt it to the fender with four 1/4" carriage bolts
I just helped a friend (IamN2Speed on RDP) replace his last weekend. The old ones were held on by 3 stainless steel self taping screws screwed into the inner lip on the fender. We re-installed the new boards with new stainless steel screws using the existing holes. It took about 10 minutes.
So is the screw head under the carpet or over? I get a little shakey with metal heads next to the side of my boat.
under the carpetSo is the screw head under the carpet or over? I get a little shakey with metal heads next to the side of my boat.
Most I've seen have tabs made of flat stockI don't remember any angle Iron on the trailer. to attach to the bottom of the fender boards.
I'd use at least 3/8" plywood
Through bolt it to the fender with four 1/4" carriage bolts
So is the screw head under the carpet or over? I get a little shakey with metal heads next to the side of my boat.
5/8 in. ply, paint with an Oil based black paint, SS or galvanized staples, SS carriage bolts under the carpet, double nut with a nylock on the bottom just like the bunks. Mine didn't require countersinking the bolts, the carpet was plenty of padding and the boat shouldn't ride on them anyway. They are primarily there to keep debris from getting kicked up from the wheels. Definitely worth doing this right!
Mine are 3/8 inch ply (I guess its what they used in 1985).
They were cover with black marine vinyl. They are getting old, but still the originals.
You'll find the fenders are a big hassle when you leave your boat trailer in the water all day. They quickly start to fall apart, and they float off one day.
For jetboats, this problem has been going on for years.....You'd think someone like Bunkrepair would have developed a system that allow operators of jetboats to keep their trailer in the water without having the bunks float off every other year
(we all know, a v-drive trailer never see's water)
Hince why im putting them on. I just had the bottom of the boat regeled and that is the reason i had to have it done.seal them then paint the outside mark your holes use 1"x1/4 carriage bolts insert bolts then carpet, take your time or they will look like shit these are very time consuming
and mark49 many boats need these for trailering not just for road debre, if there not there the fenders or what not will destroy the side of the boat
Mine are 3/8 inch ply (I guess its what they used in 1985).
They were cover with black marine vinyl. They are getting old, but still the originals.
You'll find the fenders are a big hassle when you leave your boat trailer in the water all day. They quickly start to fall apart, and they float off one day.
For jetboats, this problem has been going on for years.....You'd think someone like Bunkrepair would have developed a system that allow operators of jetboats to keep their trailer in the water without having the bunks float off every other year
(we all know, a v-drive trailer never see's water)
I used carriage bolts. The square shoulder can be pounded in and they will stay in the wood and not turn when you tighten the nuts. From there, cover with carpet.
... and I use treated ply, instead of the resin coat. If you're going to coat with resin, thin it down 2~2.5 to 1 with acetone so it will soak in. You'll have to put a ton of MEKp in, well beyond the recommend ratio, and lay it in the sun while it's curing. ... but I think treated ply is better.
Hince why im putting them on. I just had the bottom of the boat regeled and that is the reason i had to have it done.
Carriage bolts will eventually spin freely.
They're always fun to remove when that occurs.
Why just resin? Throwing a piece of glass on is no more work and minimal material.
I used 3/8" ply, one coat of glass, glassed the prong nuts on, blue loctite on the stainless bolts, bunk carpet over the nuts and the bolts sized just below the nut.
^^^ what he said. might be a good time to go with that marine grade plywood too!!
Nate jus might have some extra layin around right now...
(ParkerPowerSports)
Why use wood at all? What about a piece of carpeted fiberglass?You cut the carpet to get at the head. When you're removing the bunk, the carpet and board need to be replace, anyway.
What benefit is adding cloth? Resin, if thinned to the point it will soak into the wood, will add some resistance to water.
Wood rot is caused by microorganisms. Those organisms can live in, and consume, wood with a moisture content of 18% or higher.
The idea of treated wood is to infuse the wood with a compound that dissuades wood eating bacteria. Thinned polyester resin is reasonably effective in this regard, however, it is difficult to get polyester resin to penetrate the inner layers of plywood. For this reason, I feel treated plywood is a superior alternative as it is infused under pressure.
Unthinned polyester polyester resin, coated on top of the plywood, is entirely useless. While it greatly slows, but doesn't stop, the ingress of moisture, it also greatly slows the egress of moisture.
I used 3/8" ply, one coat of glass, glassed the prong nuts on, blue loctite on the stainless bolts, bunk carpet over the nuts and the bolts sized just below the nut.
I've got five years on mine and they're still fine :blah:By the number of people who have done this it sounds like the wheel needs a little reinvention.Why do something out of subpar materials knowing it's goin to turn to shit an a couple years and your going to have to redo it again and again? Might as well cut some cardboard templates since its going to be a regular deal.
You sure do know alot. Almost like you worked for a shop or somethingI've got five years on mine and they're still fine :blah:
And T-nuts are useless in a marine environment :bash:
Fuckin butchers![]()
I used to have a jobYou sure do know alot. Almost like you worked for a shop or something![]()
Ok fine. I will seal them with thompsons water seal. BetterTreated, Tyro. Treated.
By the way, I have a train track for my boat train that has been laying in the water four months out of every year since the late 1990s. The ties treated with thinned resin are still excellent. I posted pictures of them in this forum last summer. The PT ties held up almost as good. Untreated wood lasts a season.
You really DO miss BnB don't you Tom?I have a train track for my boat train