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460

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What's the quickest, easiest way to connect the boards to the fenders? Also will 1/4 plywood be good enough? Old fenders didn't have boards so I'm new to this
 

ka0tyk

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Self_Tapping_Screws.jpg


make sure they're long enough to poke your tires...
 

TBI

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I'd use at least 3/8" plywood

Through bolt it to the fender with four 1/4" carriage bolts
 

t&y

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I'd use at least 3/8" plywood

Through bolt it to the fender with four 1/4" carriage bolts

So do you put the carpet on after the wood is bolted on? I will be doing this in the near future, never done it before, and was trying to visualize how it goes.
 

drtywhat

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Make sure to use galvanized or stainless to avoid rust
 

sergeantmike

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Bunkrepair to the RDP white courtesy telephone please. Oh,,, he is busy?

Seal the wood and carpet it all stainless staples. Thru bolt with stainless bolts, washers and nylon lock nuts.

No problem Sean... got you covered (bad pun) on this....
 

RogerThat99

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I just helped a friend (IamN2Speed on RDP) replace his last weekend. The old ones were held on by 3 stainless steel self taping screws screwed into the inner lip on the fender. We re-installed the new boards with new stainless steel screws using the existing holes. It took about 10 minutes.
 

t&y

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I just helped a friend (IamN2Speed on RDP) replace his last weekend. The old ones were held on by 3 stainless steel self taping screws screwed into the inner lip on the fender. We re-installed the new boards with new stainless steel screws using the existing holes. It took about 10 minutes.

So is the screw head under the carpet or over? I get a little shakey with metal heads next to the side of my boat.
 

poncho

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Even if you have to go to Home Dump use stainless, always through bolt (1/4X20) bolts, lock nuts and washers, Buy a bolt too long and cut it after its installed, never mess with it again.
 

lf2

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When I did mine I used elevator bolts (like a carriage bolt but has a big completely flat head) and they are under the carpet.
 

TBI

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So is the screw head under the carpet or over? I get a little shakey with metal heads next to the side of my boat.
under the carpet
 

cave

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Ty, 19.05mm thick Ply at least.You need to find out where your fenders are gunna ride in relation to the top of the trailer. From that point you start an outline of you fenders. Take a sharpee and trace the fenders outline holding the sharpee flat on the fenders. This will be almost flush if you add some angle to the fender boards.

If you go straight up and down the use a pencil for the outline. Carpet as needed.
 

cave

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I don't remember any angle Iron on the trailer. to attach to the bottom of the fender boards.
 

TBI

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I don't remember any angle Iron on the trailer. to attach to the bottom of the fender boards.
Most I've seen have tabs made of flat stock
 

XX14

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5/8 in. ply, paint with an Oil based black paint, SS or galvanized staples, SS carriage bolts under the carpet, double nut with a nylock on the bottom just like the bunks. Mine didn't require countersinking the bolts, the carpet was plenty of padding and the boat shouldn't ride on them anyway. They are primarily there to keep debris from getting kicked up from the wheels. Definitely worth doing this right!
 

OCMerrill

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Just steal someones boat trailer with all this shit looking new. :moon:



I would flo coat the ply with resin 1st. 3/8 will work well. I am surprised nobody has recommended stainless grillwork for your teeth?


:D:D



Wait for it.....:boobeyes:
 

mark49

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I got sick and tired of replacing my inside wood rails, my boat would hit them then brake them loose. I had the inside tire wells replaced with welded on sheet metal, then glue on carpet, boat now just slides on the trailer, best 100 bucks i ever spent,
 
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Mine are 3/8 inch ply (I guess its what they used in 1985).

They were cover with black marine vinyl. They are getting old, but still the originals.

You'll find the fenders are a big hassle when you leave your boat trailer in the water all day. They quickly start to fall apart, and they float off one day.

For jetboats, this problem has been going on for years.....You'd think someone like Bunkrepair would have developed a system that allow operators of jetboats to keep their trailer in the water without having the bunks float off every other year
(we all know, a v-drive trailer never see's water)
 

RogerThat99

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So is the screw head under the carpet or over? I get a little shakey with metal heads next to the side of my boat.

The flat head screws were sunk into the wood so the head wasn't exposed and the carpet covers it up so you don't see the screw head. Like was mentioned, the boat doesn't usually touch them. The wood was also painted in black oil based paint.


5/8 in. ply, paint with an Oil based black paint, SS or galvanized staples, SS carriage bolts under the carpet, double nut with a nylock on the bottom just like the bunks. Mine didn't require countersinking the bolts, the carpet was plenty of padding and the boat shouldn't ride on them anyway. They are primarily there to keep debris from getting kicked up from the wheels. Definitely worth doing this right!

This is how I would do them if I was doing them for myself.
 

mark49

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wood is sooo yesterday, have the inside weldeded with sheet metal and be done with it forever...


Mine are 3/8 inch ply (I guess its what they used in 1985).

They were cover with black marine vinyl. They are getting old, but still the originals.

You'll find the fenders are a big hassle when you leave your boat trailer in the water all day. They quickly start to fall apart, and they float off one day.

For jetboats, this problem has been going on for years.....You'd think someone like Bunkrepair would have developed a system that allow operators of jetboats to keep their trailer in the water without having the bunks float off every other year
(we all know, a v-drive trailer never see's water)
 

HOOTER SLED-

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Yo Fo Sitty......... stay away from the duct tape, cuz u ain't Mexican beeeyotch!!!! LOL!!:skull
 

460

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Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to paint the boards black and carpet from there. I have extra carpet from the bunks. All stainless hardware etc. Pics to follow.
 

bunkrepair

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seal them then paint the outside mark your holes use 1"x1/4 carriage bolts insert bolts then carpet, take your time or they will look like shit these are very time consuming

and mark49 many boats need these for trailering not just for road debre, if there not there the fenders or what not will destroy the side of the boat
 

460

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seal them then paint the outside mark your holes use 1"x1/4 carriage bolts insert bolts then carpet, take your time or they will look like shit these are very time consuming

and mark49 many boats need these for trailering not just for road debre, if there not there the fenders or what not will destroy the side of the boat
Hince why im putting them on. I just had the bottom of the boat regeled and that is the reason i had to have it done.
 

Dettom

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Just a suggestion, but the last time I did this, I resined the 3/8 plywood, drilled and sealed the holes where I wanted them. Then I put a slight counter sink where the bolts go and put my carpet on top, stapling with stainless steel staples. Then put it up to you fender in your previously matched up holes, and install the nuts. Use stainless hardware. Should be better than new.
 

500bbc

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I used 3/8" ply, one coat of glass, glassed the prong nuts on, blue loctite on the stainless bolts, bunk carpet over the nuts and the bolts sized just below the nut.
 

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500bbc

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Mine are 3/8 inch ply (I guess its what they used in 1985).

They were cover with black marine vinyl. They are getting old, but still the originals.

You'll find the fenders are a big hassle when you leave your boat trailer in the water all day. They quickly start to fall apart, and they float off one day.

For jetboats, this problem has been going on for years.....You'd think someone like Bunkrepair would have developed a system that allow operators of jetboats to keep their trailer in the water without having the bunks float off every other year
(we all know, a v-drive trailer never see's water)

Well not really, we just don't leave our trailers parked on the ramp all day long.:p:p:D
 

Tom Brown

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I used carriage bolts. The square shoulder can be pounded in and they will stay in the wood and not turn when you tighten the nuts. From there, cover with carpet.

... and I use treated ply, instead of the resin coat. If you're going to coat with resin, thin it down 2~2.5 to 1 with acetone so it will soak in. You'll have to put a ton of MEKp in, well beyond the recommend ratio, and lay it in the sun while it's curing. ... but I think treated ply is better.
 

OCMerrill

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I used carriage bolts. The square shoulder can be pounded in and they will stay in the wood and not turn when you tighten the nuts. From there, cover with carpet.

... and I use treated ply, instead of the resin coat. If you're going to coat with resin, thin it down 2~2.5 to 1 with acetone so it will soak in. You'll have to put a ton of MEKp in, well beyond the recommend ratio, and lay it in the sun while it's curing. ... but I think treated ply is better.


Your telling me to Fuck off, albeit nice work. :D:D
 

500bbc

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Carriage bolts will eventually spin freely.

They're always fun to remove when that occurs.
Why just resin? Throwing a piece of glass on is no more work and minimal material.
 

bunkrepair

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Hince why im putting them on. I just had the bottom of the boat regeled and that is the reason i had to have it done.

yep and if you dont have tabs you can drill a hole in the fender how 90 percent of them are mounted with 4 carraige bolts have any other questions i could see if i have pictures of some but it may take me a few to find them but let me know
 

Tom Brown

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Carriage bolts will eventually spin freely.

They're always fun to remove when that occurs.

You cut the carpet to get at the head. When you're removing the bunk, the carpet and board need to be replace, anyway.


Why just resin? Throwing a piece of glass on is no more work and minimal material.

What benefit is adding cloth? Resin, if thinned to the point it will soak into the wood, will add some resistance to water.

Wood rot is caused by microorganisms. Those organisms can live in, and consume, wood with a moisture content of 18% or higher.

The idea of treated wood is to infuse the wood with a compound that dissuades wood eating bacteria. Thinned polyester resin is reasonably effective in this regard, however, it is difficult to get polyester resin to penetrate the inner layers of plywood. For this reason, I feel treated plywood is a superior alternative as it is infused under pressure.

Unthinned polyester polyester resin, coated on top of the plywood, is entirely useless. While it greatly slows, but doesn't stop, the ingress of moisture, it also greatly slows the egress of moisture.
 

rivermobster

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I used 3/8" ply, one coat of glass, glassed the prong nuts on, blue loctite on the stainless bolts, bunk carpet over the nuts and the bolts sized just below the nut.

^^^ what he said. might be a good time to go with that marine grade plywood too!!

Nate jus might have some extra layin around right now...
(ParkerPowerSports)
 

74 spectra20 v-drive

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Use stainless T-nuts and seal the wood. We cover the wood with resin and then padding and carpet, by using the T-nut you have the head of the bolt inside next to your side wall and not a bolt sticking out. prior to carpeting size your bolt to make sure it sits flush with the wood and you have no problems with gouging the boat in the event that is slides into the pad.
 

Gelcoater

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You cut the carpet to get at the head. When you're removing the bunk, the carpet and board need to be replace, anyway.




What benefit is adding cloth? Resin, if thinned to the point it will soak into the wood, will add some resistance to water.

Wood rot is caused by microorganisms. Those organisms can live in, and consume, wood with a moisture content of 18% or higher.

The idea of treated wood is to infuse the wood with a compound that dissuades wood eating bacteria. Thinned polyester resin is reasonably effective in this regard, however, it is difficult to get polyester resin to penetrate the inner layers of plywood. For this reason, I feel treated plywood is a superior alternative as it is infused under pressure.

Unthinned polyester polyester resin, coated on top of the plywood, is entirely useless. While it greatly slows, but doesn't stop, the ingress of moisture, it also greatly slows the egress of moisture.
Why use wood at all? What about a piece of carpeted fiberglass?

As far as the polyester resin not stopping all the water,it's because its "open" and not sealed at all,and still a bit tacky because its designed to be that way to accept the next laminant layer,adding acetone to thin it just makes it a thinner layer of protection.The trick there would be to use a surface agent to get the resin to go hard on the outside.
For that matter why use resin?Gelcoat it as thats what gelcoat is for,stopping the ingress of water.
 

TBI

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Geeezus Key-rhyyst people! Why over complicate the fuck out of a simple project?


I didn't realize we had this many government employees here :smackhead


Wheel reinventin cocksuckers :bash:





:D
 

Gelcoater

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By the number of people who have done this it sounds like the wheel needs a little reinvention.Why do something out of subpar materials knowing it's goin to turn to shit an a couple years and your going to have to redo it again and again? Might as well cut some cardboard templates since its going to be a regular deal.
 

H20MOFO

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I used 3/8" ply, one coat of glass, glassed the prong nuts on, blue loctite on the stainless bolts, bunk carpet over the nuts and the bolts sized just below the nut.

Winner Winner..chicken dinner. These are what I used also probably didnt need it but I used gorilla glue on em too...1/2" birch plywood, painted with black rustoleum. Then covered in black automove carpet. I didnt use any pad.
 

TBI

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By the number of people who have done this it sounds like the wheel needs a little reinvention.Why do something out of subpar materials knowing it's goin to turn to shit an a couple years and your going to have to redo it again and again? Might as well cut some cardboard templates since its going to be a regular deal.
I've got five years on mine and they're still fine :blah:




And T-nuts are useless in a marine environment :bash:



Fuckin butchers :D
 

460

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has been suggested to me not to coat the boards. In the event the wood does get wet the resin wont allow it to dry and will cause rot faster.

Going to paint them black and carpet, stainless 1/4-20 bolts and be done with it. Im more worried about getting the fenders level then i am about the boards:D
 

460

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I've got five years on mine and they're still fine :blah:




And T-nuts are useless in a marine environment :bash:



Fuckin butchers :D
You sure do know alot. Almost like you worked for a shop or something;):D
 

Tom Brown

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Treated, Tyro. Treated.


By the way, I have a train track for my boat train that has been laying in the water four months out of every year since the late 1990s. The ties treated with thinned resin are still excellent. I posted pictures of them in this forum last summer. The PT ties held up almost as good. Untreated wood lasts a season.
 

460

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Treated, Tyro. Treated.


By the way, I have a train track for my boat train that has been laying in the water four months out of every year since the late 1990s. The ties treated with thinned resin are still excellent. I posted pictures of them in this forum last summer. The PT ties held up almost as good. Untreated wood lasts a season.
Ok fine. I will seal them with thompsons water seal. Better:D
 
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