Brake Masters

[The Prisoner]

Ya or nay?
Never used them before but they are $70 cheaper than everyone else around here. Sick of paying more.
Front brakes quoted 139 at bm and 215 at others

 

[TPC]

I’ve had good and bad, mostly good experiences.
Convenient as hell. The pads don’t make all the dust they used to. They are using much better pads.

The lifetime warranty is labor only but they are good about it and it works out cheap with the good pads they now use.

The rear axle seals puked on our 2500 and they were 1/3 the cost of what the dealer wanted. Been good plus they knocked it out in an hour.

The wife’s Mazda 6 is her commuter car and they take care of it cheap.

 

[HALLETT BOY]

Save yourself a lot of grief and find a recommended independent shop .

 

[Gelcoater]

Ya or nay?
Never used them before but they are $70 cheaper than everyone else around here. Sick of paying more.
Front brakes quoted 139 at bm and 215 at others

I say Yay.

The rear rotors on my truck require pulling rear axles, axle seals, a torch, and serious impact gun/compressor.
They quoted me $289 to do the job with pads plus cost of rotors.

I supplied my own rotors for about $120 less than thier number on rotor costs.
I’ve done that job.
It was well worth the costs.

 

[The Prisoner]

Well pulled the trigger and see how it goes. If it turns out to be a clown show we’ll see. I am waiting for the call that says I need new roters, blinker fluids changed and they have to rotate the air in my tires.

 

[Gelcoater]

Well pulled the trigger and see how it goes. If it turns out to be a clown show we’ll see. I am waiting for the call that says I need new roters, blinker fluids changed and they have to rotate the air in my tires.

If it helps, I have zero complaints.

 

[phuggit]

I used them and was happy with the price and service.

 

[The Prisoner]

Just got the call. Jumped from 139 to 340. Can’t resurface right rotor. Supposedly. Cough. Cough. I think that’s the first phone call they teach in brake school.

 

[TCHB]

I used the one in Havasu and the work was good.

 

[Ouderkirk]

Just got the call. Jumped from 139 to 340. Can’t resurface right rotor. Supposedly. Cough. Cough. I think that’s the first phone call they teach in brake school.

Nobody resurfaces rotors these days. They are so thin that there really isn't much material left to cut and the cost of new are pretty cheap.

I just replace them as a matter of doing the job properly.

 

[TPC]

Still the cheapest.
Cheap oil changes and free tire rotation with it and they check the brakes every visit and we catch issues before they grenade.

New car discs are so thin if they are super hot and you drive through a puddle they may warp on some cars. They sometimes did on our new Mazdas but the replacement discs seem to survive that.

 

[rmarion]

I've used them 4x and have positive results each time.

I'll use them again...

 

[aka619er]

Nobody resurfaces rotors these days. They are so thin that there really isn't much material left to cut and the cost of new are pretty cheap.

I just replace them as a matter of doing the job properly.

I just helped a buddy do his brakes and Oriellys turned his rotors for $10 each.

 

[Kachina26]

Brakes seem like an odd thing to cheap out on. I can see going cheap on a Koozie or a cooler, but a safety item?

 

[78Southwind]

Still the cheapest.
Cheap oil changes and free tire rotation with it and they check the brakes every visit and we catch issues before they grenade.

New car discs are so thin if they are super hot and you drive through a puddle they may warp on some cars. They sometimes did on our new Mazdas but the replacement discs seem to survive that.

Do they do oil changes on Diesels? I stopped going to Ford since they damaged all my center caps rotating my tires.

 

[Your ad here]

I still cut the rotors on my 02 F250 and F350. I'll get 2 cuts out of them. I only use oem brake pads, rotors, calipers. Start mixing brake parts and your brakes will be fucked up in no time. Pads and rotors are matched to each other for performance and wear. Bought my F350 used and when I put motorcraft brake parts back on it I pressed the brake pedal how I normally did and locked up the tires in the parking lot. Lol That much of a difference between oem and autozone.

 

[johnnyC]

had a used tacoma and it wouldn't stop replaced the front pads with oem and it stoped on a dime, and i didn't turn the rotors!

 

[Willie B]

...Just paid $377 for good quality front and rear pads...one new front rotor that they turned to make sure that it was true...They also turned the other three rotors...’99 Expedition...my beater car...Was that a good deal or a bad deal???...
(Been using this shop for years)never an issue with anything)

 

[Willie B]

...I have always used ceramic pads on my Dodge Ram diesel with a 3600 pound Lance camper on it...
...Ceramic seems to have good wear and they stop the truck way better than anything else I have tried...

 

[lbhsbz]

This will not be the last time I write a post like this...but it's also not the first time. I spent 10 years as a dealer tech and the last 16 years as the tech guy at Centric Parts / StopTech.

Would you take your boat to some jackass who had a sign out on the road advertising the cheapest service?...no, not unless you owned a bayliner. Why do it with your car, or your wife's car that drives your kids around all day?

Forget every review you see online or elsewhere about brake service or brake parts...they're all complete bullshit. Anyone who takes the time to write a review is a millenial fucktard with too much time on their hands, or just a dumbass with too much time on their hands. Every fresh brake job will work better than a set of brakes that have been on the vehicle for 40-50K miles...slide pins are sticky, pads are worn on a bit of taper, etc...One could chop up pieces of wood in the shape of brake pads and aside from the heat capacity issues, they would probably perform better than what was taken off simply due to the fact that in the process of changing pads, several problems get fixed by accident. We had a customer that sold absolute bottom of the barrel garbage pads and rotors, but put them in pretty boxes with 'merican flags all over 'em and the reviews are nothing but stellar...but consider the source.

A good set of pads will cost $50 or more for most vehicles...granted, a shitty set of pads can be sourced for $10 for most vehicles...you get what you pay for.

I typically advise to look on Rock Auto for quality pads and quality rotors...then double the online price and add 20%, then consider $150-200 labor per axle for a decent brake job. This is what you should expect to pay at a decent shop, and you'll get a warranty with the work, that you won't need if you use a quality shop and have them source the parts and do the whole job.

Don't fuel the race to the bottom

 

[TPC]

Do they do oil changes on Diesels? I stopped going to Ford since they damaged all my center caps rotating my tires.

Maybe.
I do my diesel oil changes myself.

 

[Cdog]

I use hawk truck pads & gm performance rotors on my dirtymax. They’re way better than stock. I’d rather have softer better grabbing pads than longer lasting. Stock set up went 140k miles. I still had life in them but felt guilty so I changed them out.

 

[ElAzul]

This will not be the last time I write a post like this...but it's also not the first time. I spent 10 years as a dealer tech and the last 16 years as the tech guy at Centric Parts / StopTech.

Would you take your boat to some jackass who had a sign out on the road advertising the cheapest service?...no, not unless you owned a bayliner. Why do it with your car, or your wife's car that drives your kids around all day?

Forget every review you see online or elsewhere about brake service or brake parts...they're all complete bullshit. Anyone who takes the time to write a review is a millenial fucktard with too much time on their hands, or just a dumbass with too much time on their hands. Every fresh brake job will work better than a set of brakes that have been on the vehicle for 40-50K miles...slide pins are sticky, pads are worn on a bit of taper, etc...One could chop up pieces of wood in the shape of brake pads and aside from the heat capacity issues, they would probably perform better than what was taken off simply due to the fact that in the process of changing pads, several problems get fixed by accident. We had a customer that sold absolute bottom of the barrel garbage pads and rotors, but put them in pretty boxes with 'merican flags all over 'em and the reviews are nothing but stellar...but consider the source.

A good set of pads will cost $50 or more for most vehicles...granted, a shitty set of pads can be sourced for $10 for most vehicles...you get what you pay for.

I typically advise to look on Rock Auto for quality pads and quality rotors...then double the online price and add 20%, then consider $150-200 labor per axle for a decent brake job. This is what you should expect to pay at a decent shop, and you'll get a warranty with the work, that you won't need if you use a quality shop and have them source the parts and do the whole job.

Don't fuel the race to the bottom

I am more than pleased with the Centric/Stoptech parts you recommended to me. Centric premium rotors, Stoptech hoses, Akeebono pads and a brake flush. Most people ignore flushing brake fluid every couple years but if they saw the shit that came out it would be a different story. Hope the new job is working out

 

[ChumpChange]

Would you take your boat to some jackass who had a sign out on the road advertising the cheapest service?...no, not unless you owned a bayliner. Why do it with your car, or your wife's car that drives your kids around all day?

Don't forget that the most expensive service doesn't mean it's the best.

Took my wife's van in for some service (Dealership) last Thursday and decided to get the brakes done as well by the Dealership Certified Mechanic. Was quoted at another great shop but why not do it at the dealership as the vehicle was there on a recall anyway.

Fast forward to yesterday and I'm driving the family down to the Wildlife Park in San Diego. Right as we go, I start hearing this clunking noise every time I hit a bump out of the back driver's side tire. Clanking pretty bad I ask the wife if it had been making that noise. She said yes but she thought I knew since I drove it back from the dealership. So I pull off the freeway and hit a AutoZone to see if they tightened the lug nuts. Lugs were tight but I reach in and realize the caliper was sliding back and forth and clanking against the inner wheel. They forgot to insert the bolt. Drove it a small mechanic shop, slid under the vehicle and realized both bolts holding the caliper were missing. Nice job guys!

In other words, there are good and bad employees as good and bad establishments. Hopefully you get a good one.

 

[240Hallett]

This will not be the last time I write a post like this...but it's also not the first time. I spent 10 years as a dealer tech and the last 16 years as the tech guy at Centric Parts / StopTech.

Would you take your boat to some jackass who had a sign out on the road advertising the cheapest service?...no, not unless you owned a bayliner. Why do it with your car, or your wife's car that drives your kids around all day?

Forget every review you see online or elsewhere about brake service or brake parts...they're all complete bullshit. Anyone who takes the time to write a review is a millenial fucktard with too much time on their hands, or just a dumbass with too much time on their hands. Every fresh brake job will work better than a set of brakes that have been on the vehicle for 40-50K miles...slide pins are sticky, pads are worn on a bit of taper, etc...One could chop up pieces of wood in the shape of brake pads and aside from the heat capacity issues, they would probably perform better than what was taken off simply due to the fact that in the process of changing pads, several problems get fixed by accident. We had a customer that sold absolute bottom of the barrel garbage pads and rotors, but put them in pretty boxes with 'merican flags all over 'em and the reviews are nothing but stellar...but consider the source.

A good set of pads will cost $50 or more for most vehicles...granted, a shitty set of pads can be sourced for $10 for most vehicles...you get what you pay for.

I typically advise to look on Rock Auto for quality pads and quality rotors...then double the online price and add 20%, then consider $150-200 labor per axle for a decent brake job. This is what you should expect to pay at a decent shop, and you'll get a warranty with the work, that you won't need if you use a quality shop and have them source the parts and do the whole job.

Don't fuel the race to the bottom

What is the Cyrogenic rotor as opposed to the standard 120 series?

 

[ChumpChange]

What is the Cyrogenic rotor as opposed to the standard 120 series?

Works better in freezing temperatures.

 

[lbhsbz]

What is the Cyrogenic rotor as opposed to the standard 120 series?

A waste of money unless you've historically had issues cracking rotors due to overheating and thermal shock.

 

[lbhsbz]

Don't forget that the most expensive service doesn't mean it's the best.

Took my wife's van in for some service (Dealership) last Thursday and decided to get the brakes done as well by the Dealership Certified Mechanic. Was quoted at another great shop but why not do it at the dealership as the vehicle was there on a recall anyway.

Fast forward to yesterday and I'm driving the family down to the Wildlife Park in San Diego. Right as we go, I start hearing this clunking noise every time I hit a bump out of the back driver's side tire. Clanking pretty bad I ask the wife if it had been making that noise. She said yes but she thought I knew since I drove it back from the dealership. So I pull off the freeway and hit a AutoZone to see if they tightened the lug nuts. Lugs were tight but I reach in and realize the caliper was sliding back and forth and clanking against the inner wheel. They forgot to insert the bolt. Drove it a small mechanic shop, slid under the vehicle and realized both bolts holding the caliper were missing. Nice job guys!

In other words, there are good and bad employees as good and bad establishments. Hopefully you get a good one.

Everyone screws up from time to time. My point was, with these "menu priced" brake jobs that are common with chain stores, you're typically getting absolute bottom of the barrel parts. Sure, they'll probably perform better than your worn out garbage that hasn't been touched in 5+ years...so you'll think its great right now, but a $10 brake pad does not have the same operating characteristics as a premium line pad....temperature range, linear friction levels, rotor wear, dust, pad life, noise, etc...

 

[The Prisoner]

Just got home. The 340 quote jumped to 380. Tax I get. They don’t mention 24$ shop supplies. I love ad ons!!! Why not quote 364?

 

[240Hallett]

A waste of money unless you've historically had issues cracking rotors due to overheating and thermal shock.

No history. Still on original factory pads and rotors at 217,000 miles. So the 120 series is a good stock replacement?

 

[lbhsbz]

No history. Still on original factory pads and rotors at 217,000 miles. So the 120 series is a good stock replacement?

yes...If you've gone that long on original parts with no issues (I'm assuming this is a GM truck)...I'd just buy a set of good pads and DON'T TOUCH the rotors. Posiquiet Ceramics, Akebonos, OE GM pads...whatever. Don't buy garbage pads. If the rotors are still thick enough and aren't giving you any problems, don't let anyone machine them or even take them off the hubs.

 

[pronstar]

yes...If you've gone that long on original parts with no issues (I'm assuming this is a GM truck)...I'd just buy a set of good pads and DON'T TOUCH the rotors. Posiquiet Ceramics, Akebonos, OE GM pads...whatever. Don't buy garbage pads. If the rotors are still thick enough and aren't giving you any problems, don't let anyone machine them or even take them off the hubs.

I love the conversations with shops when this is what I want to do...

“So you just want me to slam pads on there? Do you know how dangerous that is?”

LMAO just do what I ask, the customer is always right [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[240Hallett]

yes...If you've gone that long on original parts with no issues (I'm assuming this is a GM truck)...I'd just buy a set of good pads and DON'T TOUCH the rotors. Posiquiet Ceramics, Akebonos, OE GM pads...whatever. Don't buy garbage pads. If the rotors are still thick enough and aren't giving you any problems, don't let anyone machine them or even take them off the hubs.

Yes 2003 GMC 1500, four wheel disc.
I do get some steering wheel shake after some extended downhill braking so I figured I would go ahead and do the rotors.

 

[Kachina26]

Just got home. The 340 quote jumped to 380. Tax I get. They don’t mention 24$ shop supplies. I love ad ons!!! Why not quote 364?

Because cheap asses are trying to save $5 and will drive across town if someone quotes them a couple of bucks cheaper.