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How convert images to G Code?

rivergames

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A few weeks ago, I picked up a 4'x4' CNC Router Table.

I am clueless in regards to how to run CNC programs.

The computer and machine are set up to use Mach3 software

I downloaded Inkscape to try and convert images to G Code. Well, I've been trying for hours and can't figure it out....

I can't comprehend anything online either. I would have better luck trying to read Chinese.....

Which brings me to RDP. I know there are a few inmates that are very talented with CNC.

Can you guys please guide me to figure out how to easily convert images into G Code files.

Thanks guys!:tbi
 

rivergames

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Subscribed because I'm curious as well

I think I'm close with this video. I just need to figure out how to make the extension ZIP I downloaded work with Inkscape...

[video=youtube;bbe56S_O-uI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbe56S_O-uI[/video]
 

rivergames

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Theres this interesting dude as well [video=youtube;8kfNAhM_NLg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kfNAhM_NLg[/video]
 

Taboma

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Trust me I don't know shit about this, but I did watch that first video you posted ---- I thought he pasted that into inkscape as an image file -- jpeg.
Not as a zip.
 

Taboma

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Just watched again and I think he brought it in as a bitmap (Raster) image. So open you zip, then open it in MSPaint, save as bitmap ??
 

rivergames

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Well figured it out.... Kind of.... And surprisingly, it was because of this guy's video

[video=youtube_https;8kfNAhM_NLg]https://youtu.be/8kfNAhM_NLg[/video]
 

rivergames

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Now that I somewhat figured that out, now I need to find some good videos on how to run the Mach3 CNC program
 

milkmoney

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A few weeks ago, I picked up a 4'x4' CNC Router Table.

I am clueless in regards to how to run CNC programs.

The computer and machine are set up to use Mach3 software

I downloaded Inkscape to try and convert images to G Code. Well, I've been trying for hours and can't figure it out....

I can't comprehend anything online either. I would have better luck trying to read Chinese.....

Which brings me to RDP. I know there are a few inmates that are very talented with CNC.

Can you guys please guide me to figure out how to easily convert images into G Code files.

Thanks guys!:tbi
Should of kept ur Chinese roommate andju[emoji6] [emoji202]

Is this going to be product out of metal or ?
If u do schiada logo, I am interested
 

wsuwrhr

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I am not 100% clear on what you are asking.


IMA take a stab at it though....

jpeg, bmp and other images need to be turned into vectors and then they can be loaded into a cad cam software and cleaned up.

From there you can make G code off of it.

Brian

You don't have the digits there RG?
 

rivergames

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I am not 100% clear on what you are asking.


IMA take a stab at it though....

jpeg, bmp and other images need to be turned into vectors and then they can be loaded into a cad cam software and cleaned up.

From there you can make G code off of it.

Brian

You don't have the digits there RG?
Converting a jpeg into a G Code.
 

nowski

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What ever it is you want to make you'll need to have a CAD file (DWG, DXF, STL, IGES, STL) of that image to be able to post process that file. If someone out there has already taking the time to draw your image in CAD then your in luck if not you'll have to draw it up yourself. Maybe you can bring your image into a CAD file and trace over the top of it to create your CAD file...
 

rivergames

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Here is something I found trying to find out WTF Inkscape is.

https://www.scan2cad.com/cad/vectorize-using-inkscape/
Thanks bud, I'll check it out!


I've used this weekend to try and learn anything on this machine. Well..... At least I'm somewhat improving Hahahaha

The top. Was the first cut with a 1/4" end mill. The Logo was too tiny for 1/4" bit so I switched to a V bit and lightly enscribed into some wood.
a7b9faaea162ce543ea268f70b37627f.jpg
 

wsuwrhr

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Yeap, smaller, detailed logos need smaller tools and even slower feedrates.

Thanks bud, I'll check it out!


I've used this weekend to try and learn anything on this machine. Well..... At least I'm somewhat improving Hahahaha

The top. Was the first cut with a 1/4" end mill. The Logo was too tiny for 1/4" bit so I switched to a V bit and lightly enscribed into some wood.
a7b9faaea162ce543ea268f70b37627f.jpg
 

wsuwrhr

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Yup, I slowed the jog down for aluminum
fe867e7585700468f86b89b02b33838f.jpg

Too fast of feed for RPM, or dull tool, possibly TOO fast RPM but I doubt it.

Are you able to take more than one pass to alter the depth of cut?

Some oil wouldn't hurt, if you aren't. WD 40, motor/cutting oil, or something.

Brian
 

wsuwrhr

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Otherwise, the file looks good. I like it.


BTW, if that was what you were trying to make code for, I could have sent it to you. ;)
 

rivergames

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Too fast of feed for RPM, or dull tool, possibly TOO fast RPM but I doubt it.

Are you able to take more than one pass to alter the depth of cut?

Some oil wouldn't hurt, if you aren't. WD 40, motor/cutting oil, or something.

Brian
Haven't used oil yet. Good call!

The V bit is probably dull. I got it from the previous owner. Let's see how a new bit goes
 

wsuwrhr

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Haven't used oil yet. Good call!

The V bit is probably dull. I got it from the previous owner. Let's see how a new bit goes

Well how does it look? I imagine you know what a sharp tool looks like.

You are probably able to alter the depth of cut. run a second pass .005 lower.

What RPM is the spindle capable of or turning right now?

Your "V-bit" is probably a 1/4" spot drill hit up TL Baney or MCMaster for some carbide spotdrills.
 

rivergames

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Well how does it look? I imagine you know what a sharp tool looks like.

You are probably able to alter the depth of cut. run a second pass .005 lower.

What RPM is the spindle capable of or turning right now?

Your "V-bit" is probably a 1/4" spot drill hit up TL Baney or MCMaster for some carbide spotdrills.
Not sure yet! I'll get back to you with that one
 

rivergames

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I need to figure out how to slightly drop the tool below 0. Like a -0.015

Rocking mistake! Broke a tiny bit haha
b2af31812788a44265bd88346181009c.jpg
 

wsuwrhr

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I need to figure out how to slightly drop the tool below 0. Like a -0.015

.015 is too much.

.01 would be considered a lot with what you are doing.

.005 is where you need to be
 

spectracular

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Go get this...
http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve/features.htm

Get the pro version as it does nesting. Simply import the image, hit trace, say "fuck" and then start fixing the converted file to get it right. The tracing tools are good, but they are not perfect. Start with the highest resolution you can get.

Aluminum will piss you off if you cannot slow that cutter down (rpm). On my cnc, I can slow the router down to about 3,500 rpms. Even then, I have to mist cutting oil onto the part. V-shaped cutters like what you have do not last long before gauling all to fuck. If you get some good carbide single flute bits, you will find you can do some serious shit. For instance, I can cut 3/4 plate with a 1/4" cutter, but I have to do it in a way that works for my machine. I take 0.05 deep cuts with an 0.03 and 0.15 offsets. This way the cutter only has meat all the way around the bit 1/2 the time. I take the furthest offset first and then move to the 0.03 offset now that the cutter has less to deal with...any chatter is lessened. Rinse and repeat until you have about 0.05 left until you cut through, and then cut the whole thing top to bottom with zero offset (I bump the rpms up to about 7500-8000 for the finish pass. The cutter will hardly have anything which would cause it to want to deflect, and chatter. Keep oil on it till done.

Ping me with any questions. Congrats!

Slow...you bet...good results...you bet. My machine is quite a bit bigger than yours, so i have to learn how to overcome lack of rigidity when dealing with metals.
 

spectracular

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Like Brian said...use cooling! The high rpm, slow feedrate, and lack of cooling is basically going to cause the al that is stuck to the bit, to try to weld itself to the part. When it does...snap!
 

rivergames

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Go get this...
http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve/features.htm

Get the pro version as it does nesting. Simply import the image, hit trace, say "fuck" and then start fixing the converted file to get it right. The tracing tools are good, but they are not perfect. Start with the highest resolution you can get.

Aluminum will piss you off if you cannot slow that cutter down (rpm). On my cnc, I can slow the router down to about 3,500 rpms. Even then, I have to mist cutting oil onto the part. V-shaped cutters like what you have do not last long before gauling all to fuck. If you get some good carbide single flute bits, you will find you can do some serious shit. For instance, I can cut 3/4 plate with a 1/4" cutter, but I have to do it in a way that works for my machine. I take 0.05 deep cuts with an 0.03 and 0.15 offsets. This way the cutter only has meat all the way around the bit 1/2 the time. I take the furthest offset first and then move to the 0.03 offset now that the cutter has less to deal with...any chatter is lessened. Rinse and repeat until you have about 0.05 left until you cut through, and then cut the whole thing top to bottom with zero offset (I bump the rpms up to about 7500-8000 for the finish pass. The cutter will hardly have anything which would cause it to want to deflect, and chatter. Keep oil on it till done.

Ping me with any questions. Congrats!

Slow...you bet...good results...you bet. My machine is quite a bit bigger than yours, so i have to learn how to overcome lack of rigidity when dealing with metals.

Like Brian said...use cooling! The high rpm, slow feedrate, and lack of cooling is basically going to cause the al that is stuck to the bit, to try to weld itself to the part. When it does...snap!

I appreciate you sharing some knowledge with this!

From now on, I'll throw some WD40 or Magic cutting oil on the aluminum parts to be cut.

I am ordering a few tiny carbide ball mill ends today. I'm looking forward to seeing how well they work!
 

Racey

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Games, you may want to set up an air nozzle to blow the chips as you are cutting especially in aluminum with those small little cutters.

If you have questions about vectorizing graphics you can call me i can tell you some tricks i use with standard software like Illustrator etc.
 

rivergames

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Games, you may want to set up an air nozzle to blow the chips as you are cutting especially in aluminum with those small little cutters.

If you have questions about vectorizing graphics you can call me i can tell you some tricks i use with standard software like Illustrator etc.

I had my vacuum hose temporarily zip tied to the router which seamed to work pretty well. I need to get familiarized the Mach3 cutting software a bit more. You ever played with the Mach3 software?
 

Racey

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I had my vacuum hose temporarily zip tied to the router which seamed to work pretty well. I need to get familiarized the Mach3 cutting software a bit more. You ever played with the Mach3 software?

Yeah a little bit, the guy i send my full sheet waterjet cutting to has a machine running it, He uses a plugin for autocad that converts the DXF/DWG lines to G-code toolpaths inside of autocad. I've run the machine a few times but it's been a long time. It's quite a bit different going from single line cutting to full blown tool pathing, so i'm not sure if what he is using would work anyway, i kind of remember it being a sort of tailor made plugin for plasma/flame/waterjet.
 

rivergames

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Reading through the 157 page manual I printed out today. See what I can engrave this weekend
 

SummitKarl

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unless there is some magic raster to vector program you just got to import the image and trace it
 

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