I used some Red Loctite.....

[OCMerrill]

And now I need to remove a 1 1/8" Jamb Nut on the track bar of my Jeep suspension.

I can't freaking break it loose for nothing.

Am I down to heat as my only option? Not a great spot to cherry the thing up and melt all the grease and Delrin in the joint it's hooked to.

Should have used Blue...I knew better.

 

[Tom Brown]

Are you sure you're turning it the correct way? Remember... righty-tighty.... lefty-loosy...

 

[OCMerrill]

Are you sure you're turning it the correct way? Remember... righty-tighty.... lefty-loosy...

Don't turn my thread political Tom.

And yes my tools are not new.

 

[TPC]

Might not take that much heat and tapping with a hammer if possible.

 

[Guest]

Gonna need 300 degrees...heat gun, torch, or hair dryer..(maybe)...next time remember....No Jeep...Cobra...:thumbsup

 

[Tom Brown]

I second the heat suggestion but be careful not to anneal it. If you end up getting it glowing, you will need to replace the fasteners.

 

[OCMerrill]

Thank you gentlemen. I used a heat gun and sacrificed a perfectly good knuckle. I have 9 more to bloody up before the days out. :grumble:

Going down to Ace Hardware to purchase some Blue glue.

 

[kgt]

Just crossthread it...no need for locktite...remember, crossthreads beats no threads...:thumbsup

 

[Ivan Dan]

We use red on everything on the race car. You just need a breaker bar and a long pipe for leverage or a really good 1/2" impact gun.

 

[Boat Tech]

Just crossthread it...no need for locktite...remember, crossthreads beats no threads...:thumbsup

Only on this forum you can get away with good information like this

 

[OCMerrill]

Only on this forum you can get away with good information like this

Canadians can also freeze stuff together with water. Canadian welding.

 

[Yellowboat]

1" black iron pipe makes a great breaking bar.


Just watch out, its really easy to break stuff and if they are longer , you can actually bend them( damn FWD axle nut.)

 

[Tom Brown]

We use red on everything on the race car. You just need a breaker bar and a long pipe for leverage or a really good 1/2" impact gun.

Don't the threads tear when you power the nut off?

 

[lebel409]

I have a great pipe tool...I found a piece of 1/2 (or so) that fits into a piece of 3/4. The thing is about 20" long and works for 90% of the extra leverage needs I have. Having 2 diameters also makes it handier for some things.

 

[69 1/2]

I just installed an aftermarket adjustable front track bar on my Jeep today. What is the point of the jamb nut? You have to take the end loose from the frame to adjust it so the jamb nut seems redundant. BTW, I bent the end that is threaded, could not believe how easy a large diameter MOOG tie rod end is to bend. Must be a very mild potmetal.

 

[Deleted Account]

So now whatreyou doing to the Heep?:thumbsup

 

[OCMerrill]

I just installed an aftermarket adjustable front track bar on my Jeep today. What is the point of the jamb nut? You have to take the end loose from the frame to adjust it so the jamb nut seems redundant. BTW, I bent the end that is threaded, could not believe how easy a large diameter MOOG tie rod end is to bend. Must be a very mild potmetal.

On my system the front trackbar has a Johnny Joint on one end. This is a rebuild-able rod end (very well made) and that joint is threaded into the track bar. Jamb nut holds it in place.

So now whatreyou doing to the Heep?:thumbsup

At Truckhaven I developed a weird noise in the front susp. I found one of the lower radius arm brackets torn away from the axle slightly...:boobeyes: so I pulled that arm off to weld weld the bracket ad to avoid melting the bushing.

I figured I might as well adjust the track bar at the same time. The front axle has been shifted to the drivers side a 1/2" or so sense MIT did the front end 3 years back.

All fixed now. I almost flexed a lower CA bracket off. Damn.

 

[ROZ]

Don't the threads tear when you power the nut off?

I think you're referring to a hernia :champagne:

 

[69 1/2]

On my system the front trackbar has a Johnny Joint on one end. This is a rebuild-able rod end (very well made) and that joint is threaded into the track bar. Jamb nut holds it in place.



Mine is the same except for no johnny joint, just pretty standard HD tie rod end with spindle and castle nut. Strange there is no adjustment except to remove the castle nut, beat the spindle out and give it a couple turns, reassemble and put wheels back on and drive it again. I can't seem to find a good place to measure for finding center with the offset pumpkin. Played this game six time now and the last time the adjustable end bent, could not believe it as the size is huge.

 

[SS 201]

Get it hot and shock it with cold water.

 

[Tom Brown]

I think you're referring to a hernia :champagne:

 

[Tom Brown]

Get it hot and shock it with cold water.

The nut was successfully removed yesterday afternoon. It is now time to shit on this thread with silliness, sexual innuendo, and outrageously bad ideas.

 

[OCMerrill]

You should have called me, we have a 2 1/2" impact in the shop

Holy shit. That's some TQ right there. :thumbsup

 

[OCMerrill]

The nut was successfully removed yesterday afternoon. It is now time to shit on this thread with silliness, sexual innuendo, and outrageously bad ideas.

LMAO.

 

[ROZ]

The nut was successfully removed yesterday afternoon. It is now time to shit on this thread with silliness, sexual innuendo, and outrageously bad ideas.

Tom Brown finally busted a nut, NICE! :champagne:

 

[OCMerrill]

Tom Brown finally busted a nut, NICE! :champagne:

And he did it on the cheap.

 

[Texasjetboats]

I have used a Dremel tool with the baby cut off wheel to split open a rounded off nut. Usually saves the threads.