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Installing a window unit into a brick wall

farmo83

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Any inmates familiar with brick work? My dad gave me a window unit to put in my garage, I can wire it in and frame in the studs but I have 0 expierance with brick work. I’ve read that I might need a lintil from what I can tell is basically just a header. Here is a picture of the wall. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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NicPaus

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Not going to look good a mini split would look a lot cleaner. If you decide to use it going to need to make opening so it can be reinforced to support the brick above it.
 

mesquito_creek

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I don't know about that site's instruction. I have never seen a masonry lintel without a vertical element to deal with the shear? Think L or upsidedown T. You would need to provide more information about how that wall is constructed. Is is just a veneer? Is is just unreinforced red brick building? Is there a bond beam up top? etc.. etc...
 

500bbc

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Have a Engineer coming out now to look at wall to be removed and replace with a beam. They keep asking how much. I told them it all depends on how much he over engineers it.
Rehab from a small fire, want to open the partition wall from living to kitchen, 17lf. CJ's and ridge braces on it.
Hardy Frame, LVL, engineer, architect, struc ob, deputy...$28,000.00.:D
 

Jimmy

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I don't know about that site's instruction. I have never seen a masonry lintel without a vertical element to deal with the shear? Think L or upsidedown T. You would need to provide more information about how that wall is constructed. Is is just a veneer? Is is just unreinforced red brick building? Is there a bond beam up top? etc.. etc...
It looks like they've inserted a bit of 1/4" plate as a lintel.
U could use angle iron or "L" lol but how would u flash it to stop rain getting in.
 

NicPaus

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Rehab from a small fire, want to open the partition wall from living to kitchen, 17lf. CJ's and ridge braces on it.
Hardy Frame, LVL, engineer, architect, struc ob, deputy...$28,000.00.:D
Just finished with Engineer. He wants 2 shear walls on each side with new footings. Cut out existing footing where posts will sit on 2 new 3x3 pads. My high estimate was 30k before. He pulled me aside and said in the end 50k on high side 40k if he can get city to approve with 1 shear wall which is the easy side to add 1. Offer on house is 1.5 and it is 2 bedroom in Riviera in Torrance. Needs new kitchen and 2 bathrooms redone. Market is insane.
 

mesquito_creek

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It looks like they've inserted a bit of 1/4" plate as a lintel.
U could use angle iron or "L" lol but how would u flash it to stop rain getting in.

Obviously I wasnt suggesting you would press in angle iron from the outside of the building. I suppose you could do it from the inside if you don't care about the look or trim it out somehow. I have never seen a flat lintel installed after the fact. I probably would remove a course or 2 and install the lintel and face it with brick in the traditional fashion....
 

28Eliminator

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Any inmates familiar with brick work? My dad gave me a window unit to put in my garage, I can wire it in and frame in the studs but I have 0 expierance with brick work. I’ve read that I might need a lintil from what I can tell is basically just a header. Here is a picture of the wall. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Are you sure the brick is structural and not just a facade?
 

AzGeo

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Brace it up the load above, cut the hole (over sized for furring/window mounting methods).

Fit in pieces of 3/8" wall 4" X 4" or 4"X 3" angle iron .

Once the pieces are "tack welded in place", remove the metal, and weld the hell out of every corner .

Drill and counter sink for wood screws to hold the wood for the window mount .

Drill for anchors around the window sill, and on the inside to the brick (90 degrees to each other), so it can't be "pushed in" .

Fill external gaps between the metal frame and brick with epoxy, and then install and finish window out .

This kind of work withstood the 1994 Northridge earthquake, a 6.8 ( or whatever they claimed it to be) .
 

Dalton

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A ductless split is going to be exponentially more expensive too.

you can get a fine one for 800, Chigo and Pioneer are good for that price point, probably 800 in brick work to get that window unit in there and it will look worse
 

River Lynchmob

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you can get a fine one for 800, Chigo and Pioneer are good for that price point, probably 800 in brick work to get that window unit in there and it will look worse
True but then you need to run the copper refrigerant lines, thermostat charge it start it up etc...Looking at $1500 minimum...window banger you can get for $250 maybe. Don't get me wrong, I'd do a ductless split every time but they are more $$$.

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It would be cheaper to remove the entire wall, and start over again with typical 2x6 construction, and a stucco wall. Also, might be a problem with property line setbacks. You have to provide enough room to vent the exhaust.
 
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