Manx build. Tons of questions

[Gelcoater]

Picked this up last month from a fellow RDP member.
Project car, 68 body on 63 pan.

First question.

Should there be such a bow in the windshield?


It looks to be an easy 3/4 inch.

 

[Gelcoater]

Any go to sources for electrical?



That piece of red wire on the passenger floor and the wires coming from the distributor are the only wires I can find on this car.
So an entire street legal harness build is in my future.

I'm a painter. All I know is electricity is blue. And it hurts.
I've figured out what the ground symbol is on en electrical schematic. Beyond that it's Egyptian.

Any and all advise here is appreciated.

 

[Gelcoater]

Factory Meyers dash.

But isn't going to fit with the front down bars of the cage there.

Cut and narrow the dash or fab a flat gelcoated panel for a dash?
Or flat carbon fiber panel for dash? :cool

With some time that factory unit could be sectioned and narrowed to fit.

I'm torn.

 

[Cole Trickle]

That was a deal I was on it a couple minutes after posted and I have always wanted a Manx but the time wasn't right.

I would get into the different bE or Manx forums. Quick search on eBay and there are a ton of Manx wiring harnesses for les than $250.

There simple shouldn't be that hard to figure it out with the help of rdp and youtube[emoji41]

 

[BamBam]

Any go to sources for electrical?

View attachment 566281 View attachment 566282

That piece of red wire on the passenger floor and the wires coming from the distributor are the only wires I can find on this car.
So an entire street legal harness build is in my future.

I'm a painter. All I know is electricity is blue. And it hurts.
I've figured out what the ground symbol is on en electrical schematic. Beyond that it's Egyptian.

Any and all advise here is appreciated.

I was considering this place for a VW wiring harness. http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/vw-items I ended up just building the entire wiring harness on my own. I don't understand Egyptian but I understand electrical. As far as the bow in the windshield, I would try to remove the entire assembly. Then remove the bottom piece of metal. I would then try to straighten that piece once removed from the glass. If that piece is bowed it could be causing the glass to bow with it. I was looking at this and tried to buy it as well, but you were too quick on the draw. It would have been another fun toy for dad to have out at the river house. Good luck with the project and keep asking questions as I'm sure others want to see the progress and help as much as possible.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Cage looks bad ass if the pictures do it justice.

 

[AzGeo]

from scratch, is easier than doing a 3 color gel coat spray job ..............

 

[UltraLucky]

If it is an original Manx body and Dash I would keep the configuration of the dash as close as possible if you can, The dash is one of the ways to distinguish the original bodies from the splashed molds. I had to trim mine a bit to fit around the cage. The windshield should be a flat piece of glass, no bow.
Lot of guys are using the Rebel Harness or a stock Bug harness for the year you want to replicate the lighting and turn signals from. Than you can use the VW wiring diagrams and turn signal switches and relays. I went with the 1966 so i could have the turn signal and Hi/Low beam switch on the column.

 

[Gelcoater]

If it is an original Manx body and Dash I would keep the configuration of the dash as close as possible if you can, The dash is one of the ways to distinguish the original bodies from the splashed molds. I had to trim mine a bit to fit around the cage. The windshield should be a flat piece of glass, no bow.
Lot of guys are using the Rebel Harness or a stock Bug harness for the year you want to replicate the lighting and turn signals from. Than you can use the VW wiring diagrams and turn signal switches and relays. I went with the 1966 so i could have the turn signal and Hi/Low beam switch on the column.

The Rebel kit looks miles ahead of others I have looked at. Thanks.:thumbsup
Will probably order one.

As far as the dash and distinguishing the body from a splash...

I've already had the body authenticated by Bruce and Winnie.
There was a discrepancy in the last number of the serial number from the PO in their registry number.
The body is a 68

It had been painted over...twice.
The car has been red and now yellow.
Was hard to read and that last number was the key to knowing what the original color was.
So I pulled the plate and got the paint off.


The original color was "ColdFire" metal flake.
Is a mix of gold and green.
Interesting note here, ColdFire was a typo on the color chart and should have been GoldFire.
I understand there's a few 70-73 Beismeyer flats gelled in Cold/GoldFire.


This pic confirmed for the Meyers crew the OG color and the final letter and allowed them to complete that entry of their registry. And, got the car in their new registry, a cert of authenticity and new badges.

Kind of cool learning about the history of old cars.:cool

 

[Meaney77]

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac971000.html

 

[Dan Lorenze]

I knew that was a real Manx when I saw it.. You scored, Gelcoater.. Good job.... Our cars are very similar. I want to say that your windshield might be on backwards. The flat of the windsheild goes to the inside of the car. Hard to tell from the pics.

 

[Gelcoater]

I knew that was a real Manx when I saw it.. You scored, Gelcoater.. Good job.... Our cars are very similar. I want to say that your windshield might be on backwards. The flat of the windsheild goes to the inside of the car. Hard to tell from the pics.

Dan, you have a build thread here or the Samba or somewhere?
Would love to see pics of various behind the scenes views, if you follow me.
Routing of cables, fuel lines, oil cooler, etc.

I'd like to only build this thing two or three times

Edit.
The windshield.

There's a channel pointed towards the inside of the car?

 

[RaceTec]

The guys on here are here are super helpful too!
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/

Looks like a fun project!

 

[UltraLucky]

Dan, you have a build thread here or the Samba or somewhere?
Would love to see pics of various behind the scenes views, if you follow me.
Routing of cables, fuel lines, oil cooler, etc.

I'd like to only build this thing two or three times

Edit.
The windshield.

There's a channel pointed towards the inside of the car?

View attachment 567544 View attachment 567545

Channel should be pointed towards the front of the car. It is there to capture the front of the old style fiberglass tops.

 

[Dan Lorenze]

Channel should be pointed towards the front of the car. It is there to capture the front of the old style fiberglass tops.

That is correct! The channel goes to the front of the car.. [emoji106]

 

[Gelcoater]

Channel should be pointed towards the front of the car. It is there to capture the front of the old style fiberglass tops.

On tops...

Is it threadcrapping if I go OT in my own thread?
I'm sure if Shintoooo sees it I'll get an infraction either way.:rolleyes



Came across these pics and thought they were interesting.
I'm well aware of the unique, and what I thought was a Mopar only option back in the day. The Mod Top.

Well here's a Mod Top Manx, and from what I can tell is a 1969 car still owned by the original buyer/builder/owner.

 

[Gelcoater]

The gas tank.

Any recommendations for a fab guy to patch that hole and weld a new bung in forward so it can hook up to the gas fill in the center of the hood?

Meyers sells one but it's close to $500. :eek

Am I wrong in thinking someone could weld mine and pressure check it for less than or about half that?

Other options anyone knows of to fill that hole without much in the way of gadgets or brackets to hold it in?

The car needs an entire fuel system, from tank to carb rebuild and every single component between the two.

 

[Dan Lorenze]

Dan, you have a build thread here or the Samba or somewhere?
Would love to see pics of various behind the scenes views, if you follow me.
Routing of cables, fuel lines, oil cooler, etc.

I'm on Samba but I didn't do a build thread. My buggy is real basic, because it's a Meyers I wanted to keep it pretty stock. The fuel line is stock and goes through the tunnel, all the wires are ran through the tube on the left side of the car and I use no external oil cooler.

 

[Gelcoater]

I'm on Samba but I didn't do a build thread. My buggy is real basic, because it's a Meyers I wanted to keep it pretty stock. The fuel line is stock and goes through the tunnel, all the wires are ran through the tube on the left side of the car and I use no external oil cooler.

Is yours a classic body? For some reason I thought you had a 2+2 body?

Fuel line through the tunnel.
There isn't a hard line that I can see in there. There are no access holes cut, and even the hole for the E brake was blocked off before what appears to be an epoxy, possibly a thin coat of bed liner was applied. It looks pretty sharp and clean. I understand running the hard line through there is a royal PITA? Even with access holes.

Worst case scenario I have to buy the kit that welds in where the access hole is cut that reinforces the tunnel. Then refinish the floor pan.
I believe within the stack of paper that came with the car are receipts for the coating used.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Is yours a classic body? For some reason I thought you had a 2+2 body?

Fuel line through the tunnel.
There isn't a hard line that I can see in there. There are no access holes cut, and even the hole for the E brake was blocked off before what appears to be an epoxy, possibly a thin coat of bed liner was applied. It looks pretty sharp and clean. I understand running the hard line through there is a royal PITA? Even with access holes.

Worst case scenario I have to buy the kit that welds in where the access hole is cut that reinforces the tunnel. Then refinish the floor pan.
I believe within the stack of paper that came with the car are receipts for the coating used.

The front access is thru a plate bolted on the front of the chassis where the front end bolts on, and the rear access is where the trans nose comes into the car.
Anything with a big motor should have at least a 3/8 fuel line.

Running a fuel line through the tunnel is easy peasy. You also need to check the Bowden tube at the rear to make sure it isn't broke.

 

[Dan Lorenze]

Is yours a classic body? For some reason I thought you had a 2+2 body?

Fuel line through the tunnel.
There isn't a hard line that I can see in there. There are no access holes cut, and even the hole for the E brake was blocked off before what appears to be an epoxy, possibly a thin coat of bed liner was applied. It looks pretty sharp and clean. I understand running the hard line through there is a royal PITA? Even with access holes.

Worst case scenario I have to buy the kit that welds in where the access hole is cut that reinforces the tunnel. Then refinish the floor pan.
I believe within the stack of paper that came with the car are receipts for the coating used.

I have the same car as you, I believe they call it a "Classic".. Yes, i'm using the stock beetle fuel line in the tunnel, their were connections for it in there. You might have to do some light fabrication and make something work.. But, my brake line is routed on the inside of the car next to the tunnel, a common route. All the wiring is ran through the glassed in vacuum hose on the left side of the car.

 

[Gelcoater]

I have the same car as you, I believe they call it a "Classic".. Yes, i'm using the stock beetle fuel line in the tunnel, their were connections for it in there. You might have to do some light fabrication and make something work.. But, my brake line is routed on the inside of the car next to the tunnel, a common route. All the wiring is ran through the glassed in vacuum hose on the left side of the car.

What goes down the hose on the other side? This car has them down both sides?
The brake line, what of it that is there is run how you describe yours. There's a line lock in line around the shifter area.

From there forward it needs everything but the master and brake switch.
Hard lines out back need some love but I think are usable.

Should there be some sort of cap or cover for the front of the tunnel?


Looking deeper at the ass end, it needs bump stop mounts and snubbers.
Complete Volkswagon noob.

 

[wsuwrhr]

The front access is thru a plate bolted on the front of the chassis where the front end bolts on, and the rear access is where the trans nose comes into the car.
Anything with a big motor should have at least a 3/8 fuel line.

Running a fuel line through the tunnel is easy peasy. You also need to check the Bowden tube at the rear to make sure it isn't broke.

What goes down the hose on the other side? This car has them down both sides?
The brake line, what of it that is there is run how you describe yours. There's a line lock in line around the shifter area.

From there forward it needs everything but the master and brake switch.
Hard lines out back need some love but I think are usable.

Should there be some sort of cap or cover for the front of the tunnel?


Looking deeper at the ass end, it needs bump stop mounts and snubbers.
Complete Volkswagon noob.

:eek

The plate is 5-6in wide and prolly 3-4in tall oval and has two 6 or 8MM bolts holding it on. 8 or 10mm hex

 

[UltraLucky]

What goes down the hose on the other side? This car has them down both sides?
The brake line, what of it that is there is run how you describe yours. There's a line lock in line around the shifter area.

From there forward it needs everything but the master and brake switch.
Hard lines out back need some love but I think are usable.

Should there be some sort of cap or cover for the front of the tunnel?


Looking deeper at the ass end, it needs bump stop mounts and snubbers.
Complete Volkswagon noob.

This is the cover plate at the front of the tunnel.

Modified stock fuel Tank,

Reinforced Emergency Brake at tunnel, very common area for the tunnel to get stress cracks.

 

[UltraLucky]

I have the original assembly instructions, Ill post up the sections for mounting the tank and securing the front of the body to the front beam once I find them.

 

[Gelcoater]

A few shots of what I'm working with.

 

[wsuwrhr]

This is the cover plate at the front of the tunnel. View attachment 568514

Yep, that is the one.



Reinforced Emergency Brake at tunnel, very common area for the tunnel to get stress cracks. View attachment 568516

Yep, otherwise with a fiberglass body and no cage, this area will crack like it is it's job.

Brian

 

[wsuwrhr]

A few shots of what I'm working with.

View attachment 568517

Wow, wild, no holes for bolts either. I wonder if your frame horn in the front has been replaced. The hole in front of all the bugs I worked on was way bigger that that.

FYI, that hole needs to be closed up with a cover of some type....

 

[UltraLucky]

Snubber goes over the top of the torsion arm. this is an old picture but you can see it

 

[wsuwrhr]

Snubber goes over the top of the torsion arm. this is an old picture but you can see it

Yep, the "top" bolt and the "front" bolt of the three that hold the swing axle tube to the flat spring plate should go thru the snubber mount. Snubber should like up with the flat pad on the torsion housing at the top of your picture.

Brian

 

[Gelcoater]

Wow, wild, no holes for bolts either. I wonder if your frame horn in the front has been replaced. The hole in front of all the bugs I worked on was way bigger that that.

FYI, that hole needs to be closed up with a cover of some type....

But the cover isn't structural at all, is it?

Acceptable to fab a light weight fiberglass (or carbon fiber :cool ) plate and rivet it on?

 

[wsuwrhr]

But the cover isn't structural at all, is it?

Acceptable to fab a light weight fiberglass (or carbon fiber :cool ) plate and rivet it on?

Correct, just needs some type of a seal to keep mud/dirt/sand/water/strayanimals out of the tunnel.

Brian

 

[wsuwrhr]

Now I see why you said it would be a pain to run a tube thru for a fuel line.

 

[Gelcoater]

Now I see why you said it would be a pain to run a tube thru for a fuel line.

Right?
Not sure what to do?
Needs to be secured in there some how?
The idea of running fuel line down one of the body tubes doesn't appeal at all.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Right?
Not sure what to do?
Needs to be secured in there some how?
The idea of running fuel line down one of the body tubes doesn't appeal at all.

Yes sir, you do not want fuel in the "interior", ever.

Easy. Cut the hole big enough with a plasma or similar to fit an arm in there and get and either get and OE cover for it from a wreckingyard, or make your own. The metal should be plenty thick enough to tap for bolts, otherwise there are other things you can do as well for bolts.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Needs to be secured in there some how?

Mine is not in a sense, it is not that long of a run, and it is "contained."

I used regular coiled alum fuel line, and it is inside a regular rubber hose inside the tunnel for abrasion. The tube is initially secured to the Holley blue pump with a tube nut, the pump is secured to the "pan" under the fuel tank. Been that way for 20 years.

Brian

 

[Gelcoater]

Mine is not in a sense, it is not that long of a run, and it is "contained."

I used regular coiled alum fuel line, and it inside a regular rubber hose inside the tunnel for abrasion. The tube is initially secured to the Holley blue pump with a tube nut, the pump is secured to the "pan" under the fuel tank. Been that way for 20 years.

Brian

That might be the route.
Getting the hole cut with a plasma will be an event.
I don't think I have a power outlet that would support one, so the car would have to go to the cutter. Rent a trailer, arrange an appointment, etc, will end up being a couple hundred bucks and half a days effort.
To cut a hole bigger.

 

[wsuwrhr]

That might be the route.
Getting the hole cut with a plasma will be an event.
I don't think I have a power outlet that would support one, so the car would have to go to the cutter. Rent a trailer, arrange an appointment, etc, will end up being a couple hundred bucks and half a days effort.
To cut a hole bigger.

220 dryer outlet would be fine, I would think.

Ok, I wasn't sure what a GC is workin with.

Holesawcutoffwheelgrinderandfile it is then.

Brian

 

[UltraLucky]

How do plan on using the car once its back together? Street and mild trails or something requiring a little more travel?
The reason I ask is the top part off that tunnel below the gas tank usually needs to be clearanced for the tie rods if you are using the stock steering box.
Might be able to accomplish two issues at once.

 

[Gelcoater]

How do plan on using the car once its back together? Street and mild trails or something requiring a little more travel?
The reason I ask is the top part off that tunnel below the gas tank usually needs to be clearanced for the tie rods if you are using the stock steering box.
Might be able to accomplish two issues at once.

Street and mild trail, maybe a real mild Glamis experience.
I don't intend to beat on it, I have quads for that.:cool

The steering stem needs to be affixed at the cross brace in the car. It has two verticale bungs to locate the column.
It has a stock steering box and Rod ends, the bars the ends are attatched to appear custom made.
There doesn't look to be any clearance issues there.

Advise on (cheap) shocks? It has no shocks connected at the moment, two coil over type shocks hanging out back. They closely resemble stock ATV front shocks, picture a stock Raptor, Banshee, 250R, etc.

Do these cars need a coil shock out back?

I was thinking 4 white KYBs ?

 

[wsuwrhr]

Depends if someone took out the torsion bars. If it has the correct bars, it only needs a regular shock, just like anything else.

That is what mine has always had.

Do these cars need a coil shock out back?

I was thinking 4 white KYBs ?