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Max machine worx

Jmp

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Has any had any experience with these guys? I have a drive I'm going to have them rebuild and am looking for other members feedback. It looks like they have some really innovative parts they put in the bravo housings, and seem to know what they are talking about.
 

Boat 405

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Has any had any experience with these guys? I have a drive I'm going to have them rebuild and am looking for other members feedback. It looks like they have some really innovative parts they put in the bravo housings, and seem to know what they are talking about.

X2. I'm in the same boat. Looks like they do some nice stuff. Not sure I should up to a scx or a really nice mmw drive
 

Jmp

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I contemplated scx's or finding someone to "detune" a 625
 

Bpracing1127

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Go to a scx and don't look back. The problem with Teague or mmw is it's still a bravo and same size gears. A scx is 40 % bigger gears than a bravo
 

Singleton

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Shippingguy picked up a new MMW upper last season - he seems very happy
 

boatnam2

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Heard good things, tough call on drive equipment spend 14k on a budget deal if you can call it that or 20k for a IMCO, 625 horse i think Im going with a TCM or MMW.
 

OldSchoolBoats

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With 625 Horse you will be fine with a TCM Platinum or MMW, shoot even an XR will be fine as long as your easy on it out of the hole.
 

gmnhra

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Aaron and Jason provide great service and quality product
they did my drive behind 1100 hp in my 25 Daytona for years...

625 hp is no problem
 

HALLETT BOY

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Go to a scx and don't look back. The problem with Teague or mmw is it's still a bravo and same size gears. A scx is 40 % bigger gears than a bravo

What he said ...but an SCX will be a little slower
 

Bpracing1127

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I found it not be any slower. I believe that is a myth
 

steak&lobster

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if you must spend the $$$, do it once and go S C X. 625hp shouldn't do shit to a XR. . .
 

boatnam2

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The only thing i think about when getting on it is the drive, i try to baby it, easy on plane roll into throttle smooth on the way up and extra smooth when letting off. 800hp with a TCM that is 14 years old and was replaced at the 7 year mark. I hope it last a few more years, i plan on doing drive oil every 10 hrs.
 

Singleton

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The only thing i think about when getting on it is the drive, i try to baby it, easy on plane roll into throttle smooth on the way up and extra smooth when letting off. 800hp with a TCM that is 14 years old and was replaced at the 7 year mark. I hope it last a few more years, i plan on doing drive oil every 10 hrs.

7-8 years seems to be the number for TCM drives. Everyone I know ends up replacing at that time
 

Motoxxxloak

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I have one behind a GT quad rotor motor. I blew the upper gear set in October but I believe that was my fault and not anything to do with the design or parts, etc. that being said, it's been really strong thus and showed zero wear after many trips
 
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boatnam2

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I had a TCM behind a 620hp carb motor and hammered the shit out of it with zero problems for years and never even thought about it. Im saving my pennys for a drive if and when i need it, not sure which one i will go with.
 

Eggbeatn ur Ass

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For what it's worth here's my story. Boat is a mach 26 with a whipped 500efi 725hp. I am religious when it comes to drive oil and maintenance. I baby it out of the hole, easy on and easy off the throttle. This has been my experience and I'm going SCX and wish I would've from the beginning. I'll give up 10mph for reliability at this point.

Brand New XR - 40hours Upper Broken clutch shaft

New Imco SC - 45 hours Upper Broke a tooth on the forward gear and twisted the input shaft which tore the splines on the engine coupler.

Imco SC built by MMW - 20 hours Upper twisted and broke input shaft probably need another new engine coupler and gearset destroyed. This just happened last weekend.

I have a Imco SC lower that has been through all of these uppers. Aaron at Max Machine Work has been great. He has worked with me thru all of this and has been more than fair. I definitely do not blame him for any of it. I just believe if you are putting more than 600hp and 600ft lbs to these Mercury gears it's a ticking time bomb. The upgrades that they do definitely work because none of their parts or shafts have broken. The gears are and will always be the downfall. The guy behind the throttles has a lot to do with it and maybe that's the case with me but I accept it. It is what it is and if you wanna go 100mph with bigger power you have to be willing to pay the price. I tell everyone Bayliner makes a real reliable boat, if that's what you're into
 

Eggbeatn ur Ass

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If you need a drive rebuilt from normal use and it's just worn out. Aaron at Max Machine Worx will build you a great drive with awesome customer service
 

Jmp

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I have one behind a GT quad rotor motor. I blew the upper gear set in October but I believe that was my fault and not anything to do with the design or parts, etc. that being said, it's been really strong thus and showed zero wear after many trips

You have a teague or a mmw?
 

Eggbeatn ur Ass

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He's got twins and one is still good so that's a lot to bit off.

Depending on the size of the boat and horsepower twins do seem to be easier on the drives since they share the load. Plus you have 2 props spinning to get on plane. All of my drive failures have happened at less than 30 mph
 

shippingguy

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I have there MXS-1 Billet Shifter upper and it is awesome and they are very good to work with.
 
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n2otoofast4u

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Has any had any experience with these guys? I have a drive I'm going to have them rebuild and am looking for other members feedback. It looks like they have some really innovative parts they put in the bravo housings, and seem to know what they are talking about.
Already broke one?
 

22tunnel

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For what it's worth here's my story. Boat is a mach 26 with a whipped 500efi 725hp. I am religious when it comes to drive oil and maintenance. I baby it out of the hole, easy on and easy off the throttle. This has been my experience and I'm going SCX and wish I would've from the beginning. I'll give up 10mph for reliability at this point.

Brand New XR - 40hours Upper Broken clutch shaft

New Imco SC - 45 hours Upper Broke a tooth on the forward gear and twisted the input shaft which tore the splines on the engine coupler.

Imco SC built by MMW - 20 hours Upper twisted and broke input shaft probably need another new engine coupler and gearset destroyed. This just happened last weekend.

I have a Imco SC lower that has been through all of these uppers. Aaron at Max Machine Work has been great. He has worked with me thru all of this and has been more than fair. I definitely do not blame him for any of it. I just believe if you are putting more than 600hp and 600ft lbs to these Mercury gears it's a ticking time bomb. The upgrades that they do definitely work because none of their parts or shafts have broken. The gears are and will always be the downfall. The guy behind the throttles has a lot to do with it and maybe that's the case with me but I accept it. It is what it is and if you wanna go 100mph with bigger power you have to be willing to pay the price. I tell everyone Bayliner makes a real reliable boat, if that's what you're into
You my friend hit the nail right on the head I agree:thumbsup
 

done

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Had a Max Machine drive behind an 850 HP HTM for years with no problems, great guys to work with,
 

KAP

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I owned both so here is what I can tell you...it is first hand experience.
MMX:
Pros,
1. MMX is the fastest drive I ever had on my boat.

2. The 625HP in power is acceptable to this drive.

3. Very low parasitic drag on this drive...meaning you will transfer power to the prop.

Cons.

A. Your driving style is critical and if you fly the boat and fail to throttle properly you will kill it.

B. Avoid 5 blade props as they really load your XR gears.

SCX:

Pros,

1. You will not hurt it with 625HP in a twin config.

2. The drive with a SCX lower is super stout and allows you to use different prop shafts.

Cons,
A. The bigger gears will kill you via parasitic drag...ie loss of HP. Note: It's not a myth my boat was down 6-8MPH on the top end versus a MMX. Anyone tell you...you can turn bigger gears in more oil without parasitic drag needs to retake physics 101.

Oh you will need new helmet and bigger overflow for the SCX drive.

B. In a twin configuration your going to have to do both drives. This opens up a whole other can of worms. The boat may not drive the same. The additional weight on the back with a full SCX setup will change things...[probably for the worse ie...hop etc]. This will require you to spend countless hours trying to figure stuff out on your own.

Conclusion:

Buy a MMX drive and save some money because you have twins if you only had a single I still say buy it because your boat is setup for that drive. Plug and play is always better.

Footnote: You might think Hmmm put a SCX with a SC lower as an option but then I would refer you to section B of the cons. You will still have to swap the other side and still be dealing with handling issues. However, if you do just remember it is only $$$ and time. I ended up with this exact combo but was down in top speed and had a bit of a hop on smooth water...it was a justified sacrifice for the added reliability. Don't forget to do regular lower unit oil changes like every 10 hours of use or every other trip depending on how hard you drove it.
 
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