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Question for the machinists

SOCALCRICKETT

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Anybody have experiencing machining down the face of a wheel? I am swapping to 22" wheels on the dually and I am looking to face the outside of the inner rear wheel to get a better fit to the body line of the truck. My fronts fit fine but I'm looking to pull the rears in 1/4" to 3/8"


The wheels are forged and are 1" thick so I should have plenty of meat to shave off on the rears.

Fronts fit great now it's time to make the bavk match
 

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SOCALCRICKETT

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3/8" is almost half of the material, I wouldn't recommend that at all. Not sure I would do 1/4" either.
That's what I'm struggling with, being a dually I have a second wheel to help with load, but I also don't want to go super thin on the face
 

4Waters

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That's what I'm struggling with, being a dually I have a second wheel to help with load, but I also don't want to go super thin on the face
That outer wheel could crack under under normal conditions, especially if you lose an inner tire.
 

ltbaney1

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depending on what surface, you will either need someone with a CNC lathe with a big swing $$$$$$ or someone willling to program it on a mill again for big money. might be cheaper to get new wheels. and then there is the whole liability of machining wheels.
 

79 HUSTLER

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That's what I'm struggling with, being a dually I have a second wheel to help with load, but I also don't want to go super thin on the face
I’d take a 1/4 inch off that Alcoa no problem on that setup. If you can take 1/8inch off the inner to get to 3/8 I’d do that as well. I’ve faced down a few of the Alcoa’s and turned many down to 22” as well.
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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depending on what surface, you will either need someone with a CNC lathe with a big swing $$$$$$ or someone willling to program it on a mill again for big money. might be cheaper to get new wheels. and then there is the whole liability of machining wheels.
Well and that's what I was wondering, is it an easy job? My thought was put it on a lathe and turn it or machine it like when they deck a set of heads.


I'm genuinely curious as to how it would be done
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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I’d take a 1/4 inch off that Alcoa no problem on that setup. If you can take 1/8inch off the inner to get to 3/8 I’d do that as well. I’ve faced down a few of the Alcoa’s and turned many down to 22” as well.
That is basically what these are, they are SRW forged wheels drilled in factory lug pattern to be a direct bolt. They were milled down to a 22 from a 22.5 on the bead
 

lbhsbz

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Wouldn't take any time at all in a manual mill. I have a big 3 jaw chuck I can clamp in my vise for stuff like this...use the hub mount surface as your datum and no real indicating work necessary, then run a facemill around it a couple times.
 

RiverDave

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depending on what surface, you will either need someone with a CNC lathe with a big swing $$$$$$ or someone willling to program it on a mill again for big money. might be cheaper to get new wheels. and then there is the whole liability of machining wheels.

I’d do it on a manual mill..
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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Wouldn't take any time at all in a manual mill. I have a big 3 jaw chuck I can clamp in my vise for stuff like this...use the hub mount surface as your datum and no real indicating work necessary, then run a facemill around it a couple times.
Sweet, good to know. I've never milled anything before, is there an issue with the cutting tip being that the lug holes are already drilled? I would think that would catch and want to hook on the bit
 

RiverDave

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Sweet, good to know. I've never milled anything before, is there an issue with the cutting tip being that the lug holes are already drilled? I would think that would catch and want to hook on the bit

Short answer is no.. It will run right through it. Same as when you approach the edge of material and begin cutting there's no difference.

RD
 

ka0tyk

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3/8" is almost half of the material, I wouldn't recommend that at all. Not sure I would do 1/4" either.

theres 0 problem facing alcoa wheels. we're not a big rig truck carrying 80k lbs...

mine are faced.

118366857_10157937279974833_4956308290775531519_n.jpg


however its not going to be enough for your nbs. they'll still stick out of the fenders a good 2". the outer needs to be an offset steer wheel turned backwards. this moves the outer wheel inwards a good 2" or so and gets it inside the fenders. then the holes on the offset steers are smaller so those get opened up more to match the rest. the place I got them from then takes the inner faced wheels and opens the holes more so that they're not visible from the outside.

difference between the offset outer rear and the front regular alcoa wheel

118580612_10157937279924833_9117186894716083405_n.jpg


you can see how close my rear wheels are to each other. unfortunately it limits you to like a 265 wide tire.

410646271_10160355698664833_2924294474130814695_n.jpg


get them from a place that knows what they're doing or its gonna look and fit like shit. I got mine from wheels a million. lowboy and theres also dually king. DO NOT BUY FROM JK MOTORSPORTS IN SOCAL.

149696416_10158323216054833_8716668527279634832_n.jpg


also lastly... i recently switched from rear hub covers to a front cover on the rear. looks way better.

410633771_10160355698649833_6036146069456225859_n.jpg



*** oof just zoomed in on your fronts... those arent alcoas judging by your wheels flat rim... where'd you get those? bummer.
 
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ltbaney1

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I’d do it on a manual mill..
depending on which face he wants reduced, absolutely. im still not clear if he wants the "flat" surface where the lug holes are, the angled surface or the bead surface.
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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theres 0 problem facing alcoa wheels. we're not a big rig truck carrying 80k lbs...

mine are faced.

118366857_10157937279974833_4956308290775531519_n.jpg


however its not going to be enough for your nbs. they'll still stick out of the fenders a good 2". the outer needs to be an offset steer wheel turned backwards. this moves the outer wheel inwards a good 2" or so and gets it inside the fenders. then the holes on the offset steers are smaller so those get opened up more to match the rest. the place I got them from then takes the inner faced wheels and opens the holes more so that they're not visible from the outside.

difference between the offset outer rear and the front regular alcoa wheel

118580612_10157937279924833_9117186894716083405_n.jpg


you can see how close my rear wheels are to each other. unfortunately it limits you to like a 265 wide tire.

410646271_10160355698664833_2924294474130814695_n.jpg


get them from a place that knows what they're doing or its gonna look and fit like shit. I got mine from wheels a million. lowboy and theres also dually king. DO NOT BUY FROM JK MOTORSPORTS IN SOCAL.

149696416_10158323216054833_8716668527279634832_n.jpg


also lastly... i recently switched from rear hub covers to a front cover on the rear. looks way better.

410633771_10160355698649833_6036146069456225859_n.jpg



*** oof just zoomed in on your fronts... those arent alcoas judging by your wheels flat rim... where'd you get those? bummer.
My wheels are SRW. I went with them since they could be drilled to the 8x165 for factory pattern. The reason for the milling is because I wanted more tire than the 265/40, I actually have 265/50/22 uniroyal, but by doing that I'm having to run the higher offset then machine down to get the rears closer. From what I can tell I should be able to get away with just 1/2" on the inner and outer rear sidewalls
 

RIVERBORN

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depending on which face he wants reduced, absolutely. im still not clear if he wants the "flat" surface where the lug holes are, the angled surface or the bead surface.
Pretty sure the flat surface where the two wheels meet.
Job can be lathe or mill.
I’d just run a fly cutter on the face w/ it clamped to the bed.
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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depending on which face he wants reduced, absolutely. im still not clear if he wants the "flat" surface where the lug holes are, the angled surface or the bead surface.
Face of the inner rear, so trimming down the flat surface on the face of the inner where the out makes contact to bring in my track width
 

ltbaney1

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Pretty sure the flat surface where the two wheels meet.
Job can be lathe or mill.
I’d just run a fly cutter on the face w/ it clamped to the bed.
if thats the case, yes. clamp it the bed of the manual and run a fly cutter. do able on a lathe if you have one big enough, but easier on the mill.
 

ka0tyk

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My wheels are SRW. I went with them since they could be drilled to the 8x165 for factory pattern. The reason for the milling is because I wanted more tire than the 265/40, I actually have 265/50/22 uniroyal, but by doing that I'm having to run the higher offset then machine down to get the rears closer. From what I can tell I should be able to get away with just 1/2" on the inner and outer rear sidewalls

theres no width difference between a 265/40 and a 265/50... unless you meant a 275 or 285. your tires do look wide on the front. i want more sidewall as well... but buying 6 tires just so i can have 1/2" more for a look aint in the cards right now.
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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theres no width difference between a 265/40 and a 265/50... unless you meant a 275 or 285. your tires do look wide on the front. i want more sidewall as well... but buying 6 tires just so i can have 1/2" more for a look aint in the cards right now.
I know the footprint is the same, im talking sidewall bulge/squish when under load.

What kind of spacing are you running between your rears?




(I really don't ever want to have to ask another man that question again in my life!!)
 

ka0tyk

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I know the footprint is the same, im talking sidewall bulge/squish when under load.

What kind of spacing are you running between your rears?




(I really don't ever want to have to ask another man that question again in my life!!)

its probably 1/2". if i wanted a wider tire, id need a 10 lug 1/4" spacer. 265 to 275, 10mm, half is 5mm, 1/4" is 6.25mm, would be okay. I could get away with 1/4" more towards the fender no problem.
 

lenmann

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theres 0 problem facing alcoa wheels. we're not a big rig truck carrying 80k lbs...

mine are faced.

118366857_10157937279974833_4956308290775531519_n.jpg


however its not going to be enough for your nbs. they'll still stick out of the fenders a good 2". the outer needs to be an offset steer wheel turned backwards. this moves the outer wheel inwards a good 2" or so and gets it inside the fenders. then the holes on the offset steers are smaller so those get opened up more to match the rest. the place I got them from then takes the inner faced wheels and opens the holes more so that they're not visible from the outside.

difference between the offset outer rear and the front regular alcoa wheel

118580612_10157937279924833_9117186894716083405_n.jpg


you can see how close my rear wheels are to each other. unfortunately it limits you to like a 265 wide tire.

410646271_10160355698664833_2924294474130814695_n.jpg


get them from a place that knows what they're doing or its gonna look and fit like shit. I got mine from wheels a million. lowboy and theres also dually king. DO NOT BUY FROM JK MOTORSPORTS IN SOCAL.

149696416_10158323216054833_8716668527279634832_n.jpg


also lastly... i recently switched from rear hub covers to a front cover on the rear. looks way better.

410633771_10160355698649833_6036146069456225859_n.jpg



*** oof just zoomed in on your fronts... those arent alcoas judging by your wheels flat rim... where'd you get those? bummer.
Any chance we could get a full side pic of that truck with the front covers on the rear? Damn thing looks great.
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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I figured this was the setup. Guess I could be wrong
I have 6 matched aluminum wheels.


I was going to go steel on the innerspring but looking through the wheel holes and seeing the inner steel bugged me
 

CoolCruzin

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Well and that's what I was wondering, is it an easy job? My thought was put it on a lathe and turn it or machine it like when they deck a set of heads.


I'm genuinely curious as to how it would be done
I had milled a set before for my hot rod .
1/4 “ you should be fine .
 
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