Questions for a new boat owner when it comes to docking/loading/launching the boat

[McGruff38]

So I made my third trip to the lake this past weekend in my Chaparral 216ssi. This last trip left me with some questions.

1) When loading or unloading, where should I have my trim set at? I have had the trim all the way up the last 3 times since I was worried about hitting the prop when getting it on and off the trailer. However, manuevering the boat in the docking area is a pain with the trim up. So, where should it be set? Am I right to be worried about the depth? Or should I leave it down and not worry?

2)The first 2 trips to Lake Perris, the water was pretty calm when we were loading and unloading. This last time, the wind had kicked up in the afternoon, and the current was making it tough to get lined up with the trailer when it was time to load it. Any advice for compensating for the current pushing you sideways? (Trim was raised upon my approach, so I am thinking that was part of my problem).

3)Same situation this past weekend. Current was pushing me away from the dock (so I fighting the current). My original plan was to use the opposite dock, and let the current push me into the dock. However that dock was full. I tried coming up to the dock slowly, but with the current pushing me away, I was having a hard time getting close without slamming into it.

4)Depth/prop. With an I/O, at what depth should I be concerned about the prop? In Perris, anytime I got in anything less than 12 feet, I was worried. In Elsinore, 12-15 ft, seemed pretty common in a large portion of the lake. So am I just being overly cautious? How shallow can the depth get before I need to be concerned?

5) loading/docking in general. This is clearly the most stressful time for me. While alot of (i assume) veteran boat owners I see out there, seem to have very little trouble. How long did it take to get comfortable doing this? I am heading out to Havasu next month, and plan on spending more time practicing this before that, but Im just curious how this went for everyone else.

 

[shintoooo]

I think you're having issues controlling the boat because you're raising the trim too high. As long as you backup the trailer far enough into the water I wouldn't worry about hitting bottom. I usually lower mine about half way when launching and raise it half way when loading it on the trailer and then once it's on the trailer I raise it all the way. When it's windy I usually feel the current on the way to the trailer and compensate by going a little left or right of the trailer and since my wife backs up the trailer she gets out and waits in the water and hooks the boat to the trailer and then cranks it in.

Practice makes perfect. When we got our boat, we were nervous at the beginning as well. I took the boat midweek to Windsor launch ramp in Havasu and we practiced backing up the trailer several times and also loading and unloading. After the fourth or fifth time we were comfortable.

 

[paradise]

So I made my third trip to the lake this past weekend in my Chaparral 216ssi. This last trip left me with some questions.

1) When loading or unloading, where should I have my trim set at? I have had the trim all the way up the last 3 times since I was worried about hitting the prop when getting it on and off the trailer. However, manuevering the boat in the docking area is a pain with the trim up. So, where should it be set? Am I right to be worried about the depth? Or should I leave it down and not worry?

I set my at about nuetral (half way) on the gauge. You definitely should NOT be 'trailered' all the way up to the highest position the drive will go to. This is hard on u-joints as they are at their max angle and you will have less control.

2)The first 2 trips to Lake Perris, the water was pretty calm when we were loading and unloading. This last time, the wind had kicked up in the afternoon, and the current was making it tough to get lined up with the trailer when it was time to load it. Any advice for compensating for the current pushing you sideways? (Trim was raised upon my approach, so I am thinking that was part of my problem).

I would start on the down river side so you are coming up against the current. Have the trailer a little shallower than usual and turn in to get the nose on the trailer. Keep the drive in gear to keep you straight on the trailer while the truck driver slowly backs down. We usually stop just short of where the boat will float all the way to the front stop and power it up a little. This way the boat is already sitting on the bunks and will stay straight while you do your strap. Then just trim up and have them pull out. To be clear, I am just saying a couple feet short of where you would normally back down so the boat is 'engaged on the bunks and won't spin sideways. I'm also thinking about river launching where there can be a 4-5 MPH current.

Practice makes perfect with trailering

3)Same situation this past weekend. Current was pushing me away from the dock (so I fighting the current). My original plan was to use the opposite dock, and let the current push me into the dock. However that dock was full. I tried coming up to the dock slowly, but with the current pushing me away, I was having a hard time getting close without slamming into it.

By yourself this will always be a hard maneuver. With another person, if the current is really going you can get a bow line on and then swing the ass end around with the drive.

4)Depth/prop. With an I/O, at what depth should I be concerned about the prop? In Perris, anytime I got in anything less than 12 feet, I was worried. In Elsinore, 12-15 ft, seemed pretty common in a large portion of the lake. So am I just being overly cautious? How shallow can the depth get before I need to be concerned?

It depends. Where we boat (lower river) 3-4' is fine. On powell though if I see 20' I start to slow down because there can be 20' ridges that will come out of nowhere. It all depends on the lake/body of water.

5) loading/docking in general. This is clearly the most stressful time for me. While alot of (i assume) veteran boat owners I see out there, seem to have very little trouble. How long did it take to get comfortable doing this? I am heading out to Havasu next month, and plan on spending more time practicing this before that, but Im just curious how this went for everyone else.

It will take time, but if you can get out when there is noone else there, just practice making a aproaches at the dock or even a point that you just pickout on the water (a floating toolie or something). Practice spinning the boat around and see how it reacts in the water. Try this, travel forwards at about 1-2 MPH. Turn to the right and go into nuetral. As the boat starts to rotate, you can turn full left and click it into reverse. Then try it with more or less speed. Just play around with it until you get a feel for how the boat will react to your steering both while under power and not. That's the beauty of an IO, you can steer while in nuetral too

If you can master that move, you can slide right into the dock perfectly sideways

 

[McGruff38]

I think you're having issues controlling the boat because you're raising the trim too high. As long as you backup the trailer far enough into the water I wouldn't worry about hitting bottom. I usually lower mine about half way when launching and raise it half way when loading it on the trailer and then once it's on the trailer I raise it all the way. When it's windy I usually feel the current on the way to the trailer and compensate by going a little left or right of the trailer and since my wife backs up the trailer she gets out and waits in the water and hooks the boat to the trailer and then cranks it in.

Practice makes perfect. When we got our boat, we were nervous at the beginning as well. I took the boat midweek to Windsor launch ramp in Havasu and we practiced backing up the trailer several times and also loading and unloading. After the fourth or fifth time we were comfortable.

OK, Ill try lowering my trim, I figured that was a part of the problem.

This last time when I was approaching the trailer, I didnt drive far enough onto the the trailer, so the current was pushing the back of the boat sideways. It actually pushed it far enough that it knocked the guide bunk, off the right side of the trailer. It sounds like a weekday on the ramp is in our future.

 

[ductape1000]

As for water depth. If you are using an onboard depth sounder, that is measuring from the bottom of the boat. Your drive is not even 2' lower than that. At slow speeds you can be in 3' on the gauge (which is about 5' of water) and not hit bottom. At speed, things change quickly so you want to be more careful. On a lake, I like to stay in 10' or more, but on the river, I read 5' or less very often without issue. So I guess it just depends on where you are boating.

 

[j-bone]

I have been boating for about 30yrs with all kinds of boats. Bottom line is every type of boat handles differently at no wake speed. Some catch the wind and push you all over, some turn faster or slower, some require different trim levels to prevent the prop from striking the bottom. The taller the boat the more the wind will push it.

It takes practice. With a new boat, I like practice away from the ramp. I pick a target like a no wake buoy and aim for it like it is a trailer. Practicing at the ramp with impatient people is not the place to learn how your boat handles.

You would be surprised how shallow your boat can go when trailering. Usually 2-3 ft is plenty if trimmed up a little. I rarely need trim up more than 1/4 up.

As far as wind or current go, I would prefer to trailer into the wind. It is easier to throttle up if necessary instead of reversing to slow down or stop.

Just remember boats can be very slow to respond to turns at no wake speed. Learn your boat and always anticipate what it will do and make your turns before you actually need to turn.

Practice will make perfect.

Good luck.

 

[RiverDave]

McGruff, welcome to the forum.

I think you are kind of answering some of your own questions here by realizing that you are grossly over trimmed while at idle which is diminishing the effects of steering / reverse / etc.. Now before we get started on the depths etc.. I will tell you that if you are trimming the drive that hard with the motor on (whether it's in gear or not) you're going to be replacing the u-joints pretty quick.

Ok so now onto the depth / trim / over cautious situation. The best advice I can give you is get to know your boat. If it's on the trailer at your house, lower the front of the trailer down as low as it will go. Then have someone jump in the boat and lower the outdrive down (it should clear the ground if the front of the trailer is down). Take note of where the outdrive is when it's all the way in the down position. Have them click the up switch and find where the outdrive is parrallel to the bottom of the boat. Take note of where that is on the gauge. While you are doing all that, note how much deeper the prop is from the bottom of the boat as well.

The next time your boat is in the water, get in the water and take note how deep the bottom of the hull is, and where the prop is. Generally if you are standing in chest high water you are going to see that you probably have a good 2' of clearance from the skeg of the drive to the sand where you are standing. In waist high water you would have about 1'. When the boat is on plane it will actually draft less water because it gets up and is riding on top of the water as opposed to floating "in" the water. Now that you have that kind of figured out, common sense would pretty much say 4'+ of depth you are pretty much good to go on idle, or on plane.

Now that you have some baselines to go off of. When you are driving on plane if the water is smooth you are going to want to be trimmed slightly past neutral so it carries the bow of the boat a bit. This location is going to change depending on load conditions, people sitting in the bow / back etc. But if you are driving and the water is smooth you can simply keep tapping the switch and you will see the mph increase a little at a time until it stops increasing. If the boat starts to porpoise or do anything weird you went too far, and trim down a little. You will start to learn and "feel" what the boat likes and what it doesn't. Generally when the water is rougher or you are approaching wakes, you would want to trim down a little so the bow doesn't "kite" off the waves and the boat stays more level. By adding that pressure on the bow you will help the boat "cut" through the waves. Over time you will again learn the boat and determine that it might ride better in the rough water at something less than all the way down, or maybe it will like being all the way down etc.. For example my boat at slower speeds loves a ton of bow pressure, so I have it trimmed down, and my tabs down a little when I'm cruising at slow speeds in rough water. However if we are moving at a good clip (50+) it doesn't want or need a ton of bow pressure, but just enough to keep the boat "flat" so as it's crossing wakes it will actually ride smoother at a neutral trim setting instead of all the way down because it allows the boat to carry from one peak of a wave to the next without pushing it down into the valleys. For the most part with your boat I'm gonna say that 99% of the time in rougher water you are going to want to be trimmed all the way down..

It's going to be impossible to teach someone how to drive a boat around the docks in text.. So I just looked up a few youtube videos for you. Just remember a boat is like a forklift and on idle you are steering from the back. Steering is greatly diminished when in reverse because the drive is blowing water against a large flat surface (back of the boat). Generally if you need to "pivot" the boat in reverse, you will want to turn the wheel BEFORE putting it in gear. That initial blast of water when you put it in gear is going to have the most effect, and after that the boat will just kinda drag in whatever direction the drive is pointing without actually rotating the boat.

Most people that drive boats (in my experience, including a lot of the veterans on this site) are flat ass terrible at docking. I don't know if that's because they boat on lakes where there isn't a current or ?? People that say "boats don't have brakes" are idiots. They absolutely have a brake when you are idling around a dock. It's called reverse. Don't be that guy that comes idling up to a dock and just turns the boat off as it's still moving forward. Use reverse, stop the boat. Don't look at wind, current, waves, etc.. as "obstacles" or "problems." Those are all things that can make your life easier! You can use them to your advantage once you get the "feel" of driving your boat on idle.


[video=youtube;nFeJgGQVvcM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFeJgGQVvcM[/video]

[video=youtube;DKc7ApaJCzQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKc7ApaJCzQ[/video]

 

[j-bone]

OK, Ill try lowering my trim, I figured that was a part of the problem.

This last time when I was approaching the trailer, I didnt drive far enough onto the the trailer, so the current was pushing the back of the boat sideways. It actually pushed it far enough that it knocked the guide bunk, off the right side of the trailer. It sounds like a weekday on the ramp is in our future.

Having the trailer too deep will make trailering the boat difficult, especially with wind or current. You want to be able to drive the boat onto the bunks and stop about a foot short of the stops. This will put weight on the bunks and prevent it from drifting off the trailer. Then you can either throttle up a little to push on the rest of the way or winch it up.

Once you have determined a depth that works perfect for your boat, make note of something on your trailer to use as a reference for future loading/unloading. For example, when my spare tire is at the water line I know I'm good. Be aware though that every ramp is different. They have different angles that can throw things off.

 

[RiverDave]

Just a weird old general rule of thumb that works on most boat trailers (there are exceptions obviously..) Back the trailer in to the water right up until the front (top) of the fenders go underwater. If there's any ripples in the water you should see the fender in the valleys of the ripples / waves etc. and then underwater when the waves cross over the tops.

Generally speaking that's the right depth for 9 out of 10 boat trailers.

RD

 

[Uncle Dave]

Once you find the magic trailer depth where the rig slides on and off with an inch of rub - take note of the water level at the fenders or guide bar. If you have a guide bar put a piece of tape at the approximate level.

These are the only real reference points you have from the side view mirror.

Of course you'll have to adjust for ramp angle somewhat but once you know where to put a fender it become a lot easier back er down till you cover the fenders - and load er on/off.

It takes most guys between 1-3 full seasons at a few different lakes to get any good at all.

I started at 7 so when I was 10/11 I did all the loading while the old man or his buddies handled the backing etc.

UD

 

[GRADS]

Here's my tip....don't do this.

[video=youtube;pg8lFzeKgEM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pg8lFzeKgEM[/video]

 

[RCDave]

As an add-on to other's suggestions here is be careful using the engine to power the boat up on the bunks. Try and only use the winch under modest force to get the boat all the way on the trailer/bunks. To much powering up on the bunks is hard on the bunks/carpet.

 

[Deja_Vu]

I would recommend that you always stow the bimini prior to approaching the dock or ramp in windy conditions.
It's like having a sail out there and you will get blown around.

I would also suggest that you add side guides to your trailer to prevent further damage. There are a few different styles. This helps you stay straight on the trailer.

 

[OCMerrill]

Practice. That's all you need.

 

[McGruff38]

Having the trailer too deep will make trailering the boat difficult, especially with wind or current. You want to be able to drive the boat onto the bunks and stop about a foot short of the stops. This will put weight on the bunks and prevent it from drifting off the trailer. Then you can either throttle up a little to push on the rest of the way or winch it up.

Once you have determined a depth that works perfect for your boat, make note of something on your trailer to use as a reference for future loading/unloading. For example, when my spare tire is at the water line I know I'm good. Be aware though that every ramp is different. They have different angles that can throw things off.

OK I think im backing the trailer too far into the water then. Usually When backing the trailer up (to launch), Ill back up until I the boat is floating. That usually has my fenders almost completely submerged. I use the fenders to judge how far to back up later when loading the boat. Ill try not backing in as far next time and see if that helps.

 

[DaytonaBabe]

Lots of good information here for you :thumbup:

I'll add in that sometimes watching others with boats similar to yours is a good way to learn, especially if it is windy. Hang back and take note of how others approach their trailers and what the wind does to their boat. Take a look at where they are running their trim and it might make you feel a bit more comfortable to know how it actually looks in the depth of the water.


I wish more people would watch others for clues of how to be the most efficient in the dock/ramp area. Where we boat, the dock area where everyone retrieves their truck driver is very cramped. You can always tell who the rookies are because the circle right in front of the dock and "DOCK BLOCK" everyone else from being able to pick up their passenger. Those who know, hang back, away from the dock until their person arrives for pickup. They can then swoop in for a quick pickup, and get the hell outta the way. Sorry about the rant, but I just wanted to make a point that being observant of others behaviors and actions while boating is a great learning tool.


Welcome to RDP!!

 

[McGruff38]

I would recommend that you always stow the bimini prior to approaching the dock or ramp in windy conditions.
It's like having a sail out there and you will get blown around.

I would also suggest that you add side guides to your trailer to prevent further damage. There are a few different styles. This helps you stay straight on the trailer.

View attachment 412533

View attachment 412534

Ah, the bimini. That makes sense. I have been leaving it up. Ill bring it down next time.

I do have side guides on my trailer. They have a long bunk (about 8 ft) between them. When the back end of the boat was being pushed to the side, it knocked the back off the trailer. I was able to put it back on by backing out the bolt that secures it, sliding it back in and tightening it up.

 

[YoPengo]

Learn on a jet boat...In a current. Then a pontoon with two biminis up. You'll be an expert in no time.

Welcome to RDP

 

[McGruff38]

Dave, Thanks for the detailed response on the trim/depth situation. I think that is going to help me out alot.

 

[Deja_Vu]

Ah, the bimini. That makes sense. I have been leaving it up. Ill bring it down next time.

I do have side guides on my trailer. They have a long bunk (about 8 ft) between them. When the back end of the boat was being pushed to the side, it knocked the back off the trailer. I was able to put it back on by backing out the bolt that secures it, sliding it back in and tightening it up.

Okay, I misread thinking one of your lower bunks came off... glad you got it put back on. :thumbsup

 

[She's Mine]

Everyone here is giving you great advise. One thing I MUST add, Be PATIENT. The best thing for you and to reduce the stress of docking or launching your boat. Don't worry about the guy yelling at you to hurry up or being a jerk. It is better to take your time do it right and not injure someone or damage someone's property.

BTW, welcome to the boating family. A lifetime of memories is starting now!

 

[SoCalZero]

You're welcome.

 

[Ziggy]

Try not to overthink your processes either. Instinct is generally right.

 

[OCMerrill]

Try not to overthink your processes either. Instinct is generally right.

Boats drive like a forklift. A little seat time would help a great deal.


Come into the dock with a little speed at an angle, hit neutral, then turn the prop towards the dock, and reverse. One will end up straight every time and look like a pro.

The BOW DOES NOT STEER, more of a pivot point only. Once all this is understood, pro.

Don't rely on that Power Squadron Video.

 

[HitIt]

The BOW DOES NOT STEER, more of a pivot point only.

This is really difficult for new drivers to remember. I have seen more times than I can count someone get too close to a dock, crank the wheel, and nail the throttle to try to get the boat away from the dock. 9 times out of 10 the back of the boat ends up smacking the dock.

And on that note, blipping the throttle near another object (dock, boat, or trailer) in an attempt to miss it or correct your course will most likely result in hitting the object harder than you would have if you had done nothing. Stay calm and make slow corrections. Hitting something slowly is better than accidentally plowing into it.

 

[RCDave]

https://search.yahoo.com/mobile/s?p...p-hrmob-900&fr2=p:fp,m:sb&.tsrc=yfp-hrmob-900

Just don't do this... Lol

 

[Advantage 1]

And for the most part, if there are people around the docks, they generally will come over and lend a hand as you approach. Just have your fenders out and lines ready to toss up :thumbsup

 

[bocco]

Don't approach the dock going faster than you want to hit it.

 

[Mandelon]

I watch Shintoo and copy what he does. :thumbsup

Seriously, hang around the docks and ramp for a while and just watch people dock, tie up and launch or retrieve. You will see what is effective and what is a miserable fail.

Being cool, staying calm, going slow and going easy on the throttle is key. Nervous people screw up. Practice and watch others. You can see which way the wind blows the other boats, and what effect the current has on them just from basic awareness and observation.

Prepare a mental checklist of all the things you need to do and run through it in your head before you start.

 

[Mandelon]

You're welcome.

No bow eye connection?

 

[mjc]

Go to site six while in Havasu on a sat evening to learn what not to do.

 

[rivermobster]

RD gave you some Great advice. Follow it to the letter.

One thing i want to add is...

When you are pulling the boat onto the trailer, the trailer it's self can be your friend. The rule about the fender depth is a real good one. But what you Really want to do is pull onto the trailer under a little power. This way, the boat will center it's self on the bunks, but NOT go ALL the way forward. Once you have the boat all lined up on the bunks properly (and hopefully with someone watching at the front for this), you can look at the fenders while your in the boat, to see that the back is centered. At that point, hit the gas, and actually drive the boat the rest of the way up on the trailer.

This will save you a world of hurt in the long run. I'd rather have the trailer a tad too shallow, than a tad too deep every time. :thumbsup

 

[RVR SWPR]

You're welcome.[/QUOTE

The best of people.Jim built my engines on our SleekCraft @ his Saticoy shop.:thumbup:

 

[OCMerrill]

No bow eye connection?

I bet there is some auto snap feature. Tournament ski boats can have this feature.

 

[Mandelon]

[video=youtube;FwaETCl_ElM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=25&v=FwaETCl_ElM[/video]

 

[Advantage 1]

[video=youtube;FwaETCl_ElM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=25&v=FwaETCl_ElM[/video]

Try and get that through the Quagga Mussel inspection...

 

[454Rocket]

If you're in Havasu when I'm in Havasu I'll be happy to meet you at the ramp and show you a few tricks. It'll take 15 minutes to have someone show you the basics and you'll be on your way. The number one thing I see at the docks is people trying to steer a boat like a car: gas and crank the wheel. In reality it should be in-and-out of gear, using the outdrive more like a rudder than a steering rack (or whatever), waiting for the boat to respond in the given conditions, and correcting as needed. It's not unusual to make another pass and try something over rather than getting in a bad situation and "making it work."

 

[McGruff38]

If you're in Havasu when I'm in Havasu I'll be happy to meet you at the ramp and show you a few tricks. It'll take 15 minutes to have someone show you the basics and you'll be on your way. The number one thing I see at the docks is people trying to steer a boat like a car: gas and crank the wheel. In reality it should be in-and-out of gear, using the outdrive more like a rudder than a steering rack (or whatever), waiting for the boat to respond in the given conditions, and correcting as needed. It's not unusual to make another pass and try something over rather than getting in a bad situation and "making it work."

Thanks for the offer. We have a trip planned for the 4th of july weekend (thurs-sun). Making a second attempt has been my go to manuever when it looks like things arent going right.

 

[FreeBird236]

This is rather obvious, but taking your bimini down even when is just breezy helps, and having a good guy at your trailer strap can save your butt. You don't need to be in full trailer trim when putting the boat on the trailer, but I believe Mercury say 1200 rpms max in full trailer trim.