Relay switch

[94essex]

Workin on hooking up a relay for engine hatch motor. Forgive my ignorance as I've never wired much. Do I need to run wire off alternator to the relay? I got typical 5 post relay. I have 2 wires off the switch on the dash a positive and a ground I assume and two off the engine hatch motor. Thanks in advance

 

[Shlbyntro]

Nope, there's a way to use standard relays. Or there is also a relay box that's already setup for you. I would recommend hooking directly to the battery thru a fuse if your battery switch isn't accessible from the outside of the engine bay. I'll try and find you a link for the presassembled relay box

Here you go. Pricey little bastard but makes it real easy

Hardin Marine - Actuator Accelerator Relay

Actuator Accelerator Relay

www.hardin-marine.com

Also lenco actuators have low enough current load to operate thru the dash fairly decently without a relay box if you choose that route just make sure you use 14ga+ wiring

 

[SBMech]

Power from the battery goes to terminal 30.

(Feed all accessories through the fuse panel as much as possible, fuse the power to the device from the relay.)

87 goes to the device (hatch ram).

85 is the power from the switch.

86 is ground. The extra terminal is to run more than one thing off the relay as long as it is within the rating of the relay, most are 30A, make sure you have a relay that is up to the task (the ram should have an amperage rating on it).

In your case, run one side of the switch to power (fused), the other to the relay (85). Ground the hatch motor locally. Ground the relay locally.

In this case you would probably want it live through the accessory part of the starting circuit (think stereo). The only problem is if the battery fails, some do not have an external unlatching system, so unless you can get current to your battery through a tender circuit etc, you will have issues with a dead battery.

Like ibhsbz mentioned, you would need two relays to make it go up and down, with a three way switch.

 

[4Waters]

Use a fuse where it says optional

 

[Taboma]

Here's a link to an older thread on RDP covering this topic and providing a wiring diagram if you scroll down the page.

electric hatch relay

spent two hours trying to get my friggin dual elec ram hatch to go down the other day before launching.. checked all wiring at the dash switch... checked all wiring at "black box" with relays in the engine bay.. swapped wiring, checked grounds...said "f" it and put it all back together for...

www.riverdavesplace.com

In addition if you google "marine engine hatch relay wiring diagram" this you will find not only the RDP link, but several others with additional information.

Here's the wiring diagram from the 2008 RDP thread

 

[lbhsbz]

Workin on hooking up a relay for engine hatch motor. Forgive my ignorance as I've never wired much. Do I need to run wire off alternator to the relay? I got typical 5 post relay. I have 2 wires off the switch on the dash a positive and a ground I assume and two off the engine hatch motor. Thanks in advance

I’m confused as to how a single pole (on-off) switch can make the hatch go up and down...you should a single supply, and a separate output for each direction.

as far as relay wiring goes...

The switch just connects the wire. Run 12V (fused) to one side of the switch, and the other side of the switch goes to the “exciter” terminal on your relay....terminal 85 or 86. The other one of those goes to ground. Terminal 30 should get fused power directly from a battery or distribution block, and terminal 87 (not 87a) should go to your actuator.

you’ll need one relay for up and another one for down.

 

[hallett21]

Power from the battery goes to terminal 30.

(Feed all accessories through the fuse panel as much as possible, fuse the power to the device from the relay.)

87 goes to the device (hatch ram).

85 is the power from the switch.

86 is ground. The extra terminal is to run more than one thing off the relay as long as it is within the rating of the relay, most are 30A, make sure you have a relay that is up to the task (the ram should have an amperage rating on it).

In your case, run one side of the switch to power (fused), the other to the relay (85). Ground the hatch motor locally. Ground the relay locally.

In this case you would probably want it live through the accessory part of the starting circuit (think stereo). The only problem is if the battery fails, some do not have an external unlatching system, so unless you can get current to your battery through a tender circuit etc, you will have issues with a dead battery.

I’m sure it’s a dumb question but why are the terminals labeled 87 85 86 etc. vs 1,2,3,4....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SBMech]

I’m sure it’s a dumb question but why are the terminals labeled 87 85 86 etc. vs 1,2,3,4....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are part of the German standard for wiring and electronics, they match all electronic circuits to standardize everything.

Term 30 is always battery power.

87 is always the device being activated.

85 and 86 are always the control circuit.

50 is always starter activation, etc etc.

The wire colors always match as well, brown is always a ground, red is always power etc.

Following diagrams and reading flow charts is easy once you learn it.

 

[Taboma]

I’m sure it’s a dumb question but why are the terminals labeled 87 85 86 etc. vs 1,2,3,4....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm just going to send you the Hagerty link --- but blame it on the Germans

Understanding Relays, part 2: DIN numbers and different types of relay - Hagerty Media

Last week, we talked about the relay, and we did our best to keep it simple. That’s still the plan, although you’re about to learn a bit of German. (Don’t worry.) First, let’s review. The relay is a remote-controlled switch that works on the principle that a tiny amount of current can be used to […]

www.hagerty.com

 

[mjc]

I have this in havasu if you want it. Reversing winch relay

 

[SBMech]

I have this in havasu if you want it. Reversing winch relay View attachment 857097

That's bad ass, I love overkill! Great idea for a hatch motor!

 

[mjc]

That's bad ass, I love overkill! Great idea for a hatch motor!

It is a ATV winch relay so not really that big

 

[94essex]

Ok so I have 2 relays, makes sense for the two wires from dash and 2 wire off the actuator to be for up and down. So essentially there was no ground. The diagrams helped a lot. So I basically need two seperate in line fuse lines that will come off the battery for up and down. And then also need wire to connect a ground? I may not be visualizing it correctly for 10 gauge where off the battery it seems they wouldnt make a connection end to fit on the wing nut terminal on my battery

 

[Shlbyntro]

You can run both relay positives off the same fuse. A 15a minimum depending on your actuator possibly bigger. I would also switch to positive rather than negative as shown in that diagram

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I have the same winch relay if someone needs it.

I went with another setup. And didn’t use it.

 

[coolchange]

I would put a Fail-Safe hatch up pigtail easily accessible.

 

[ToMorrow44]

You can run both relay positives off the same fuse. A 15a minimum depending on your actuator possibly bigger. I would also switch to positive rather than negative as shown in that diagram

I was gonna say the same thing after looking at that diagram. I’m sure it works, but just seems backwards to me from how I always wire relays.

 

[LOBOATOMY]

.

 

[Taboma]

When it comes to electrical wiring methods, there's of course absolute "Rights and Wrongs", as well as simply "Different Ways", with various Pros and Cons, usually depending on application, existing conditions and well, just personal preferences. We could of course spend days debating and arguing these preferences and who's "Right" is more so than another's "Right" --- No Thanks.

The couple of wiring diagrams I posed up yesterday weren't mine, they were from a post on another forum and from a previous post from RDP. Seems folks weren't digging the switched negatives ---- again, some feel it's intrinsically more safe, but another debatable topic. So in a effort to please a larger percentage of RDPers, I've taken the time out of my otherwise boring day three of incarceration to modify the wiring diagrams to appease those whom prefer the age ole tradition of "Positive Switching".

The two diagrams I've modified support TWO distinct methods, one using a single fused circuit, the other using a separate pilot duty circuit ---- again, pros and cons, but many of those relate to your particular application AND as an example, if you'd rather the hatch ram be controlled on the ACC side of your ignition AND/OR from a smaller fuse block located near your helm control station --- in both of those cases, using the two circuit example is a better choice. This method also allows for the use of a much smaller gauge wiring to the helm and back, sized by the fuse, which can be easily under 5 amps. Also if you have an existing ACC fuse block at the helm, no need to run an extra 12V from a battery fuse. This method keeps all the larger gauge wiring close to the battery source (In most applications).

If you prefer a single circuit, the hatch ram actuators I've viewed on CP Performance (As an example) all draw 28 amps, so a 30 amp minimum fuse AND a minimum of # 10 gauge wire ( Numerous online wiring charts available, depending on required wire length ---- Anchor Marine being a good one)

There was a question regarding something to do with a wing nut --- fuck if I know for sure, but if it's as an example pertaining to a 1/4-20 battery stud with a wing nut, then for sure appropriate crimp-on ring terminals are available in that size.

And this gentlemen, is all I'm going to say about THIS. Have fun and be safe out there --- OH, also I'm old, please save a life (Mine) , so back off

 

[Shlbyntro]

When it comes to electrical wiring methods, there's of course absolute "Rights and Wrongs", as well as simply "Different Ways", with various Pros and Cons, usually depending on application, existing conditions and well, just personal preferences. We could of course spend days debating and arguing these preferences and who's "Right" is more so than another's "Right" --- No Thanks.

The couple of wiring diagrams I posed up yesterday weren't mine, they were from a post on another forum and from a previous post from RDP. Seems folks weren't digging the switched negatives ---- again, some feel it's intrinsically more safe, but another debatable topic. So in a effort to please a larger percentage of RDPers, I've taken the time out of my otherwise boring day three of incarceration to modify the wiring diagrams to appease those whom prefer the age ole tradition of "Positive Switching".

The two diagrams I've modified support TWO distinct methods, one using a single fused circuit, the other using a separate pilot duty circuit ---- again, pros and cons, but many of those relate to your particular application AND as an example, if you'd rather the hatch ram be controlled on the ACC side of your ignition AND/OR from a smaller fuse block located near your helm control station --- in both of those cases, using the two circuit example is a better choice. This method also allows for the use of a much smaller gauge wiring to the helm and back, sized by the fuse, which can be easily under 5 amps. Also if you have an existing ACC fuse block at the helm, no need to run an extra 12V from a battery fuse. This method keeps all the larger gauge wiring close to the battery source (In most applications).

If you prefer a single circuit, the hatch ram actuators I've viewed on CP Performance (As an example) all draw 28 amps, so a 30 amp minimum fuse AND a minimum of # 10 gauge wire ( Numerous online wiring charts available, depending on required wire length ---- Anchor Marine being a good one)

There was a question regarding something to do with a wing nut --- fuck if I know for sure, but if it's as an example pertaining to a 1/4-20 battery stud with a wing nut, then for sure appropriate crimp-on ring terminals are available in that size.

And this gentlemen, is all I'm going to say about THIS. Have fun and be safe out there --- OH, also I'm old, please save a life (Mine) , so back off

View attachment 857281
View attachment 857284

There's no right or wrong but being that almost all boat systems are wired switch to positive from the start I believe it is best to maintain a level of cohesiveness between all the systems. That's the only reason I said that. I knew it wasn't your diagram. Were all going bored out of our minds right now

 

[mjc]

When it comes to electrical wiring methods, there's of course absolute "Rights and Wrongs", as well as simply "Different Ways", with various Pros and Cons, usually depending on application, existing conditions and well, just personal preferences. We could of course spend days debating and arguing these preferences and who's "Right" is more so than another's "Right" --- No Thanks.

The couple of wiring diagrams I posed up yesterday weren't mine, they were from a post on another forum and from a previous post from RDP. Seems folks weren't digging the switched negatives ---- again, some feel it's intrinsically more safe, but another debatable topic. So in a effort to please a larger percentage of RDPers, I've taken the time out of my otherwise boring day three of incarceration to modify the wiring diagrams to appease those whom prefer the age ole tradition of "Positive Switching".

The two diagrams I've modified support TWO distinct methods, one using a single fused circuit, the other using a separate pilot duty circuit ---- again, pros and cons, but many of those relate to your particular application AND as an example, if you'd rather the hatch ram be controlled on the ACC side of your ignition AND/OR from a smaller fuse block located near your helm control station --- in both of those cases, using the two circuit example is a better choice. This method also allows for the use of a much smaller gauge wiring to the helm and back, sized by the fuse, which can be easily under 5 amps. Also if you have an existing ACC fuse block at the helm, no need to run an extra 12V from a battery fuse. This method keeps all the larger gauge wiring close to the battery source (In most applications).

If you prefer a single circuit, the hatch ram actuators I've viewed on CP Performance (As an example) all draw 28 amps, so a 30 amp minimum fuse AND a minimum of # 10 gauge wire ( Numerous online wiring charts available, depending on required wire length ---- Anchor Marine being a good one)

There was a question regarding something to do with a wing nut --- fuck if I know for sure, but if it's as an example pertaining to a 1/4-20 battery stud with a wing nut, then for sure appropriate crimp-on ring terminals are available in that size.

And this gentlemen, is all I'm going to say about THIS. Have fun and be safe out there --- OH, also I'm old, please save a life (Mine) , so back off

View attachment 857281
View attachment 857284

all that work and the atv winch relay I posted above is $14 on amazon and a simple wire in with all points labeled.

 

[Shlbyntro]

all that work and the atv winch relay I posted above is $14 on amazon and a simple wire in with all points labeled.

It only looks scary. It's actually not all that much work

 

[bocco]

I have this in havasu if you want it. Reversing winch relay View attachment 857097

This is the deal right here. I used one for electric cavitation plates and it works great. Designed for a winch so it will handle way more current than your hatch rams will draw. Run a fat wire direct from the battery with a fuse. The two wires from the dash that currently power the rams will go to the push tabs and only provide the directional signal.

 

[DaveH]

another nice option for doing this......

as everyone has pointed out.......it takes two relays.

you can however use two switches, or buttons......separate up/down control.....or use a traditional rocker switch.

 

[highvoltagehands]

BMP(Best methods practice) is to avoid switching any grounds. Grounds should always remain common and continuous. You’ll be glad you did, and so will the guy that might have to service your boat one day and the guy that buys your boat......

 

[Taboma]

all that work and the atv winch relay I posted above is $14 on amazon and a simple wire in with all points labeled.

Have you actually used one of these ATV winch relays to control an engine hatch actuator ? Although both the winch and actuator share a basic similarity in function, that is, up and down and in and out (Two directions), there is a rather important difference in how they are wired. That being, the lack of a motor negative ( 3rd wire) on the hatch actuators that the winches do have.

The relay wiring diagrams I posted AND the wiring diagram for an Eddie Marine 302-33 winch and hatch actuator relay box, provide for this missing motor negative.

Another difference and one some may consider important is if this relay is going to be mounted in your bilge and consideration for blowing your ass up.
I know the Eddie Marine version is fully potted, is the ATV relay ?

Not trying to pick a scab here or beat this horse to mush, but on occasion minor details when it comes to electrical and marine installations are important.

If it were me and it may be going forward (Hence my interest in the subject), I'd be spending a few additional dollars and purchasing the part I know will work.

 

[lbhsbz]

BMP(Best methods practice) is to avoid switching any grounds. Grounds should always remain common and continuous.

So every EFI system in existence is designed wrong?

 

[Taboma]

So every EFI system in existence is designed wrong?

Have you ever engaged in a 'Details' discussion with HVH (Hud) before ? Asking for a friend, lol

But I did agree with the point of being consistent with existing boat wiring methods (For ease of trouble shooting etc.) and like you, I've seen negative switching used in various modern vehicle applications.

 

[mjc]

Have you actually used one of these ATV winch relays to control an engine hatch actuator ? Although both the winch and actuator share a basic similarity in function, that is, up and down and in and out (Two directions), there is a rather important difference in how they are wired. That being, the lack of a motor negative ( 3rd wire) on the hatch actuators that the winches do have.

The relay wiring diagrams I posted AND the wiring diagram for an Eddie Marine 302-33 winch and hatch actuator relay box, provide for this missing motor negative.

Another difference and one some may consider important is if this relay is going to be mounted in your bilge and consideration for blowing your ass up.
I know the Eddie Marine version is fully potted, is the ATV relay ?

Not trying to pick a scab here or beat this horse to mush, but on occasion minor details when it comes to electrical and marine installations are important.

If it were me and it may be going forward (Hence my interest in the subject), I'd be spending a few additional dollars and purchasing the part I know will work.

View attachment 857543

View attachment 857544

yes I have one in my boat.

 

[Taboma]

yes I have one in my boat.

Then how did you provide a negative to the actuator motor ? Winch motors are three wire, in, out and negative. All the hatch actuator motors I'm familiar with, only have two, which switch between being positive and negative. With the Eddie Marine and the diagrams I posted, the relay accomplishes that negative using a DPDT switch and the normally closed contact on each relay half provides that negative as it changes from up or down. In the wiring diagrams I've been able to find on the winch relays, this NC contact is not provided for ---- got a wiring diagram ??


EDIT --- I found that Polaris uses a winch with two wires similar to our hatch rams, unlike many winches which are three wire. So now I see looking closer, the relay you're showing does have a negative terminal that acts as the normally closed contact ---- cool, assuming the relay is potted for 'go boom' protection.

 

[DaveH]

BMP(Best methods practice) is to avoid switching any grounds. Grounds should always remain common and continuous. You’ll be glad you did, and so will the guy that might have to service your boat one day and the guy that buys your boat......

ground switching is done all the time. sure the practice of switching the positive side of a circuit is more typical....but there is no inherent down side to doing it on the ground side. as pointed out.....many control systems (like EFI in your car) as done almost exclusively on the ground (also called low switching) side.

 

[ka0tyk]

Have you actually used one of these ATV winch relays to control an engine hatch actuator ? Although both the winch and actuator share a basic similarity in function, that is, up and down and in and out (Two directions), there is a rather important difference in how they are wired. That being, the lack of a motor negative ( 3rd wire) on the hatch actuators that the winches do have.

The relay wiring diagrams I posted AND the wiring diagram for an Eddie Marine 302-33 winch and hatch actuator relay box, provide for this missing motor negative.

Another difference and one some may consider important is if this relay is going to be mounted in your bilge and consideration for blowing your ass up.
I know the Eddie Marine version is fully potted, is the ATV relay ?

Not trying to pick a scab here or beat this horse to mush, but on occasion minor details when it comes to electrical and marine installations are important.

If it were me and it may be going forward (Hence my interest in the subject), I'd be spending a few additional dollars and purchasing the part I know will work.

View attachment 857543

View attachment 857544

good lord $69 for a pcb with two relays on it that’s exactly the same components as the diagrams above that should cost under $20 for the parts.

what a joke. (Sold separately I’m sure that switch is another $69).

 

[Taboma]

good lord $69 for a pcb with two relays on it that’s exactly the same components as the diagrams above that should cost under $20 for the parts.

what a joke. (Sold separately I’m sure that switch is another $69).

I don't disagree at all, but for many RDPers, it's an easy solution for hopping up your lazy actuator and let's face it, is $ 69 a lot when we're talking those holes in the water known as BOATS ? I mean really, we've got members spending buckets loads adding a 3rd axle for a less than 4K lb boat.

In other news, I tend to be extremely careful when I'm placing electrical components in my bilge capable of creating an Spark or Arc ---- unless I were to own a jet or V-drive with an open engine compartment, where non-marine rated automotive components are the rule rather than the exception.
For the price of two cases of light beer, I'd err on the side of safety. But that's just me.

By the way, I need to edit my reply to mjc, I think I found the wiring diagram for a Polaris ATV winch which like our hatch actuators is a two wire, not three as many winches require.

 

[lbhsbz]

Have you ever engaged in a 'Details' discussion with HVH (Hud) before ? Asking for a friend, lol

Maybe once, can't remember. I imagine it's like waiting for an answer from my dog after I asked why he peed on that

 

[94essex]

Have you actually used one of these ATV winch relays to control an engine hatch actuator ? Although both the winch and actuator share a basic similarity in function, that is, up and down and in and out (Two directions), there is a rather important difference in how they are wired. That being, the lack of a motor negative ( 3rd wire) on the hatch actuators that the winches do have.

The relay wiring diagrams I posted AND the wiring diagram for an Eddie Marine 302-33 winch and hatch actuator relay box, provide for this missing motor negative.

Another difference and one some may consider important is if this relay is going to be mounted in your bilge and consideration for blowing your ass up.
I know the Eddie Marine version is fully potted, is the ATV relay ?

Not trying to pick a scab here or beat this horse to mush, but on occasion minor details when it comes to electrical and marine installations are important.

If it were me and it may be going forward (Hence my interest in the subject), I'd be spending a few additional dollars and purchasing the part I know will work.

View attachment 857543

View attachment 857544

I think this is the route I'm going to go.

 

[rush1]

Here's a link to an older thread on RDP covering this topic and providing a wiring diagram if you scroll down the page.

electric hatch relay

spent two hours trying to get my friggin dual elec ram hatch to go down the other day before launching.. checked all wiring at the dash switch... checked all wiring at "black box" with relays in the engine bay.. swapped wiring, checked grounds...said "f" it and put it all back together for...

www.riverdavesplace.com

In addition if you google "marine engine hatch relay wiring diagram" this you will find not only the RDP link, but several others with additional information.

Here's the wiring diagram from the 2008 RDP thread

View attachment 857096

This is exactly how I wired mine on my Essexs used the origanal switch and just disconnected one side of the switch wiring

 

[Shlbyntro]

I just used a Lenco....

 

[rrrr]

Have you ever engaged in a 'Details' discussion with HVH (Hud) before ? Asking for a friend, lol

But I did agree with the point of being consistent with existing boat wiring methods (For ease of trouble shooting etc.) and like you, I've seen negative switching used in various modern vehicle applications.

"Back in the day" I worked on many control apparatus that had dozens of relay operated functions. Each circuit had status lights, and because the lights had a "push to test" momentary switch, all of the relays and light circuits were wired to function with a switched ground, with the lights having additional ground connections through the PTT circuit. It's the easiest way to perform a PTT function, doing it by switching the positive would have required diodes on every light.

I've often used switched grounds on circuits in racing and boating applications. It just seems easier when multiple relays are used.

 

[Taboma]

"Back in the day" I worked on many control apparatus that had dozens of relay operated functions. Each circuit had status lights, and because the lights had a "push to test" momentary switch, all of the relays and light circuits were wired to function with a switched ground, with the lights having additional ground connections through the PTT circuit. It's the easiest way to perform a PTT function, doing it by switching the positive would have required diodes on every light.

I've often used switched grounds on circuits in racing and boating applications. It just seems easier when multiple relays are used.

I'm changing my previous marine rated relay recommendation ---- to save a few bucks and to have the fastest opening hatch on the water, I'm now recommending using open contact relays, mounted deep in the bilge, in-lieu of the fully potted "Marine Rate" types.
When you hit the "Up" button, that c*ck sucker will be up and gone in the blink of an eye and you won't even have to worry about banging your head on it.
Remember, when it comes to your boat and family's safety, it's all about saving a couple of bucks

PS: I recommend ear protection, it might be kinda loud when 'Thar She Blows'

 

[lbhsbz]

Maybe once, can't remember. I imagine it's like waiting for an answer from my dog after I asked why he peed on that

BTW...still waiting...lol

 

[racetrash]

When I did the fueling setups on our trophy truck team, which are 220v pumps with a 12v contol circuit, I opted to ground sense the relays. At the end of the fueling hoses, the fueler has a push button to control the pump. Ground out, ground in, controlling the 200/12 volt relay. The feed and return lines are internally grounded, the chase truck is grounded, and we have a team member at the truck manning a spring loaded valve and a "dead man" switch for the electrical side.

 

[Heylam]

I'm changing my previous marine rated relay recommendation ---- to save a few bucks and to have the fastest opening hatch on the water, I'm now recommending using open contact relays, mounted deep in the bilge, in-lieu of the fully potted "Marine Rate" types.
When you hit the "Up" button, that c*ck sucker will be up and gone in the blink of an eye and you won't even have to worry about banging your head on it. [emoji23]
Remember, when it comes to your boat and family's safety, it's all about saving a couple of bucks [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

PS: I recommend ear protection, it might be kinda loud when 'Thar She Blows'

You have to ask someone to hold your beer first. Lol

 

[rivermobster]

Always switch the ground side in automotive circuit. Why? Because it's safer. The less hot wires you have running around a car (or boat) the better. Simple, right?

Also, there are two different five terminal relays commonly used in the automotive world. One will have a black bottom, and one will have a white bottom.

One will have two 87 terminals. Both of these terminals will connect to 30 when 85 and 86 are activated.

The other relay will have an 87 and 87a terminal. 87a will be connected to 30 when 85 and 86 are NOT activated. When 85 and 86 ARE activated, 30 will be connected to 87 (switched).

Make sure you buy the correct relay for this application (the 87/87a relay), or your shit ain't gonna work! LoL

 

[rivermobster]

The other thing I forget to mention...

In a boat you'll want water proof relays. The conventional one's probably won't last a season. These should be the correct ones for this application...

PICO Wiring 5593PT Pico Relay and Connector Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Pico Relay and Connector Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Relays at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

@94essex

 

[Taboma]

The other thing I forget to mention...

In a boat you'll want water proof relays. The conventional one's probably won't last a season. These should be the correct ones for this application...

PICO Wiring 5593PT Pico Relay and Connector Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Pico Relay and Connector Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Relays at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

@94essex

The USCG regulations (Federal Law) require "Ignition Protection" of electrical components unless they're isolated from an enclosed engine compartment (My general wording, the regs are far more specific ) Essentially, you're probably at risk of not having the insurance company replace your boat, should it explode and the cause be determined to be an improperly rated (Not ignition proof) relay you installed under your hatch --- or other common examples, an automotive starter or alternator .

 

[Big Chorizo]

Great! I just re wired my hatch actuator using one of the winch motor reversing solenoids, works great. Now, I’m worried my boat is going to blow up.

 

[rrrr]

The other relay will have an 87 and 87a terminal. 87a will be connected to 30 when 85 and 86 are NOT activated. When 85 and 86 ARE activated, 30 will be connected to 87 (switched).

Make sure you buy the correct relay for this application (the 87/87a relay), or your shit ain't gonna work! LoL

In fewer words, the standard relay has one NO (normally open) contact and one NC (normally closed).



Just funnin' ya...the average do it yerselfer needs the long explanation.

 

[rivermobster]

In fewer words, the standard relay has one NO (normally open) contact and one NC (normally closed).



Just funnin' ya...the average do it yerselfer needs the long explanation.

I didn't know there was a Standard...

When I pick em up from my supplier, I usually buy at least 20 at a time. They have em both in stock, and I usually buy 20 of each. I go through them equally. Different parts for different jobs.

You just have to be aware that they are not all the same, because they will both fit in the same socket!

It's easy to make a mistake, if you're not paying attention!!