1966 Mustang help

[Community]

It is an inline 6......First I thought the battery was dead, put a charge on it and all seemed ok there. Then I thought the starter was going bad, tapped on it with a hammer still nothing but a noise. Got a second set of hands to turn the key so I could see what was going on and the noise sounds like it might be at the solenoid mounted to the passenger side fender well. Any thoughts? Hate to pull the starter and have it rebuilt if it is still good.

 

[Cdog]

Starter solenoid start there

 

[bocco]

Use a jumper cable to bypass the solenoid connect one side to to the main 12V from the battery. Touch the other end of the cable to the starter side of the solenoid. If it cranks the the solenoid may be bad. Also test if the small wire gets 12V when the key is turned to start.

 

[SBMech]

Most likely as mentioned already it's a bad solenoid. Simple test, take a small jumper wire/screw driver and jump the small terminal closest to the battery connection TO the large battery terminal on the solenoid. If it cranks you have lost the Ignition switch/neutral safety switch, in that direction. If it does not crank, but you get a heavy "click" out of it, it's probably the starter motor itself.

Connecting both large terminals (on the solenoid -with something like jumper cables-heavy gauge) will attempt to power the starter and bypass the solenoid entirely.

If it's a auto try starting it in neutral.

 

[johnnyC]

some times the starter will have a bad spot on the armature, its common in the old fords, turn the key you get a click but no start. the ford starters have a divorced solenoid on the fire wall and are usually very reliable

 

[ltbaney1]

i had an old mustang with that same set up. its the solenoid. get 2. one to replace the bad one now, and a spare to keep in the car. i actually just mounted both to the fenderwell and called it good.

 

[Yellowboat]

Most likely the solenoid, if not the starter, is super easy to rebuild.

 

[92 cole]

I have had 3 65-66 mustangs and if the solenoid is rattling it is normally a voltage or ground issue. check the ground all the connections then try another battery. You can charge a battery for days but if its toast its toast.If the starter Relay is rattling it IS low voltage

 

[rrrr]

Most likely as mentioned already it's a bad solenoid. Simple test, take a small jumper wire/screw driver and jump the small terminal closest to the battery connection TO the large battery terminal on the solenoid. If it cranks you have lost the Ignition switch/neutral safety switch, in that direction. If it does not crank, but you get a heavy "click" out of it, it's probably the starter motor itself.

Connecting both large terminals (on the solenoid -with something like jumper cables-heavy gauge) will attempt to power the starter and bypass the solenoid entirely.

If it's a auto try starting it in neutral.

This is the best advice for checking proper operation of the Ford fender mounted solenoid.

It's important to do this test rather than trying to jump the large current carrying terminals of the solenoid. Even on the IL6 the initial starting current of the starter approaches 200 amps. You can't get a good enough connection, and it'll arc like a sumbitch if you try it.

Applying 12 volts to the small terminal of the solenoid that's closest to the B+ terminal carries no more current than that which would flow through an ignition switch when the key is turned to the start position.

 

[rrrr]

Most likely the solenoid, if not the starter, is super easy to rebuild.

How do you rebuild a sealed solenoid? The end plate is riveted to the body. Besides, I've never heard of a rebuild kit for this type of solenoid.

Not only that, a new one can be purchased for $15-$20. Why would you bother?

 

[was thatguy]

It's the solenoid.
Jump across it with a piece of wire and it will start.
I had one that the solenoid would get stuck. After I jumped it it would work for a while.

 

[Sharp Shooter]

If you replace the solenoid go with Motorcraft.

 

[Yellowboat]

How do you rebuild a sealed solenoid? The end plate is riveted to the body. Besides, I've never heard of a rebuild kit for this type of solenoid.

Not only that, a new one can be purchased for $15-$20. Why would you bother?

Starter rebuild, on those old starters as long as the wires are not toast, they normally just take cleaning up the comutator and new brushes.

 

[rrrr]

The syntax of your answer was awkward. After I reread it a few times I understood you were speaking about the starter.