WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

'Carpe Diem' 1995 Hallett 240

85RiverRAT

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Hello RDP'ers,

I've been stewing on this for a while now. With the world in full pandemic lock down, just the general state of things, it seemed like a good time to start this thread. I needed a mental exercise to get my mind off all the SHIT happening outside. With major events and now boating events being canceled and post-poned, RDP is a great place to enjoy the hobby when away from the water. So until we get back out on our boats, I wanted to share what my dad and I have been doing to the 240.

Let's being.....These posts will span a number of years, as we are making updates and repairs as time and budget allow, but slowly improving upon the overall mechanical health and cosmetic appearance of the boat. I wouldn't call this an all out restoration, but a number of things have been done, and there is more to do to keep her on the water and keep her updated it at same time.

Two of these first projects I have already posted in the past, and since then, RDP has grown and created different Forums for different builds, i.e. Engines and Trailers. I plan on posting all of it here to chronicle the updates.

Some History on the Boat. Going to try to keep my dates straight as we go along.
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1995 Hallett 240 OB, Original equipped with a 502 MAG MPI (415hp) Bravo III. Today has over 700hrs on the clock, original gel, and interior (mostly).
Dad bought the boat in/around 2000, and we used it primary out of Echo Bay, until the water went away. Following the last Hallett Regatta ever out of Mead, we went back to Havasu in 2008.

Part 1: January 2013. Engine build at GT Performance.

For years the boat was solid, never a hiccup. Just gas and go. Coming up on 300+hours the heads started going, and Hallett did a rebuild. Coming up 500+hours, the bottom end started going. We had constant blow by, compression loss, hard starting, stalling, etc. Reliability was going out the window fast. Something had to be done.

I'm particularly proud of this engine build because I was much older and had a hand in the specs. of the build. I documented the journey below. The boat was apart, so we added a Livorsi Merc. Replacement shifter, lost a cushion pulling to GT, so new rear cushion was made.

https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/project-240-hallett-engine-rebuild.87874/
 
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85RiverRAT

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Part 2: January 2015, DIY Trailer Resto.

Shortly after the Trailer needed some TLC. We had put god knows how many coats of white paint over the rust on the trailer, and it was just looking shittier every season.
Finally, went after it. Hindsight is 20/20. We did all the labor to prep the metal, and then used unconventional paint. 😁. Behr Premium Enamel Exterior paint, with a roller. It has held up surprisingly well considering the material choice. Really, we would have been smarter to have still done the prep, to save the labor costs, but then put the tires back on and wheeled the trailer down to a shop to get sprayed with automotive primer and enamel.

A prior project too, was to cut the fixed guide posts off. I had made some chrome removable posts with nice bunk carpet. The fixed posts on these HOSS trailers had solid rubber guides, and if you were a little off coming in you would get a nice rubber streak down the side of the boat. Much better with the carpet, and nicer looking with the chrome posts.

Also had Adrenaline, add the swing-away to fit into the garage. Touched up with more Behr Premium. It's good shit! Holding up to boat trailer duties.

https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/diy-trailer-resto.125780/

To be continued. Digging up the photos for the newer projects.
 

85RiverRAT

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Let's call this
Part 3: Feb 2017 Stereo

With the motor and trailer done, everything was going swimmingly for a few seasons. Reliability was back. the boat had more power then ever. The 509 is a fun engine in the 240.

After the trailer, we worked on the stereo. It was severely outdated, and was still the stock automotive head unit and pioneer speakers. A newer head unit was put in with blue tooth and some modern features. I also sourced some super cheap marine speakers, which had some basic plastic covers. Night and day better then the original system, but a far cry from what could really be in the boat. I've got grand expectations for what the stereo should be, just waiting for the right time. Meanwhile this system is doing a good job.

Ideally:
- Front bow speakers
- Additional cockpit speakers,
- New under dash speakers,
- Maybe a single 10"-12" sub, with an amp
- New updated courtesy lights, and cabin lights
- Driver side stereo control, and transom stereo control

Funny thing about this exercise is that some smaller project have blurred into the back ground. I don't think we have all photos for some of these, so I'll just list them out, and post on the bigger ticket jobs.
- Windscreens: I'm pretty sure we went to Primo Martinez for new windows, he is on the FB Hallett Owners Group.
- Carpet Kits: Probably on the 3rd set.
- Transom Trim Switch
- Aqua Performance Boarding ladder (one of the first things added early on)
- Recessed front Nav. light. (flip up nav light)

 

85RiverRAT

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So screwed up the time a bit. But that was bound to happen. :rolleyes:
Just before putting the stereo in we had to go back to GT Performance. During the routine check up coming off the 2016 Season, power was falling, started getting blow by again. WTF?!?

Savage did a compression check and two cylinders had dropped compression. Mark gave us some options and advice. We brought the boat home, and then back to GT, they pulled the motor and went through the bottom end, and few other odds/ends, to get us back out on the water.

Motor has been out twice at this point, but cylinder compression came back up, and it was running better again.
 

85RiverRAT

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Coming into Winter 2018.

Part 4: Dec. 2018 Gel and Interior.

There alot of threads in here of owners going to Saleen Fiberglass Restorations for gel repair. After 23 years, of beaching and use, the bottom was needing touch up. Dropped the boat off at Saleen, they lifted her off the trailer and then re-gelled the bottom up to first stringer. Really pleased with the job they did, but there is a family MOTTO, "Use your good stuff", so right back up on the beach she goes. This repair came out really nice!!

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While the boat was at Saleen, the front bow cushions were dropped off at Group 1 marine, to get patterned and replaced. If I remember correctly they acquired ARKO, which did the original Hallett interiors. Over the years, the sun pad on hatch was replaced, had an incident where it was torn. The front most bow cushion was replace. We lost a rear cushion bring the boat to GT. So this stop at Group 1, included the two bow side cushions, and then the second rear cushion. Now the back bench had two new seat cushions, and the bow has new seat cushions, the rest is still all original. Lots of elbow grease goes into each season to keep it bright white and protected from the elements.
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Another touch up that Dad did, was to re-dye the purple beading along the seat backs in the bow section. The beading was completely sun faded and bleached out. So he had found a dye kit, that included soap, prep-spray, and color. The beading was carefully masked off and then prepped, before spraying with the new purple dye. Really nice results, and against the new bow cushions, the whole front seating looks really refreshed!!
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bagged97taco

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That dye turned out nice. Any chances it will bleed into the white? Never seen that kit before
 

85RiverRAT

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Part 5: March 2019, Savage Marine Cylinder Heads.

In September 18', we went to Powell for the first time since 2008, it had been a long hiatus. This trip was my mom and dad's 35th Wedding anniversary. Left OC, beat feet to Havasu grabbed the boat, hit the Grand Canyon, and then off to Antelope Pt. We rented from the fleet there, which was nicer then our timeshare had ever been in the past.
The boat was running okay, but had some trouble in the altitude, just wasn't happy until warmed up, some odd backfiring, and even that season on Havasu at low altitude just wasn't feeling 100%. We had a great trip regardless, but needed to get things checked out.

Back to Savage for the yearly tune up. Another compression check and leak down was done. This time the top-end was really bad, the valves were going. The decision was made to pull the motor and have the heads done.

The stock iron Merc. heads were rebuilt once by Hallett, they were sent to PFAFF for a rebuild. Then when GT did the original rebuild new Valves, seals, springs, retainers, etc. were put in, and it was supposed to be decked, ported, etc. My personal opinion is all that happened as was planned, the job was done correctly, but having rebuilt these head now twice with over 600hrs on them, it was time for a full replacement, and that was also the suggestion from Mark. Found out too we had a collapsed lifter.

Savage has a pretty sweet head routine put together, and they have advertised it on their Instagram page. 454 mpi, 502 mpi, 500efi, 525's are all prime candidates for these heads. I've not gathered all the specs. but it is a BRODIX head, with all the goodies. They did the same to our motor. Man what difference. Compression is back into spec. and the power is back on and I feel that it is more power then before because I think these heads flow a lot better. The stock modified heads, made 530hp on the dyno, so I know they had to have some work done. The engine is at least back to the original GT Perf. numbers, and maybe just revs better, if not making a few more Ponies.

Hats off to Savage Marine, they have been servicing the ol'Hallett for long time now, and always do a great job.

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Separate Project, but Mark helped make it happen. Some of the issues with this motor being a 95' is trying to find parts for it. Mercury doesn't support these old engines very well, and the aftermarket is getting harder to find stuff. I'm finding that it is New OLD stock, so is just as old as the motor, or its second hand and probably in worse condition then what you are trying to replace. This is in large part, the reason for revamping the fuel system, and simplifying the whole fuel system. The fuel system is completely upgraded, with an electric fuel pump regulator, braided lines, the works. NO VST, etc. During the GT rebuild the oil lines needed repair, the OEM crimps and rubber started going. One of the feed lines was repaired with a hose splice and clamps. We weren't able to fit this in at the time, so I set out on another mission to replace the OEM hard lines, as soon as we could get to it. It wasn't comfortable knowing one of the lines had a band-aid on it.

I researched all fittings and old manuals to figure out what AN fittings and Dash size hoses we needed. I had found everything except for underneath at the Chevy BBC filter adapter. Really, it wasn't until Savage got into it that he could figure out the last fitting. It was really an odd ball, but they got it to work. Thank you again to Savage Marine for getting us back into ship shape. So now the oil system has new lines running from under the motor, to the marine filter adapter, to the cooler at the back, and then back to the block adapter. Everything was purchased black, with exception to the two purple fittings at the filter for a little bling. :cool:

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85RiverRAT

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That dye turned out nice. Any chances it will bleed into the white? Never seen that kit before
Thanks! It hasn't bled or rubbed off yet. It set up pretty good. Prep is important to get all the vinyl conditioner, sunscreen and stuff off before spraying.
 

ToMorrow44

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Awesome thread thanks! I’m more or less doing the same thing with my 01 Advantage. My dad bought it new, I bought it from him 5 years ago and have slowly been doing projects to it. This year is gonna be new dash/helm and probably the hull gelcoat and trailer redo (again).
 

85RiverRAT

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Part 6: Cut and Buff. Feb 2020.

I, like many others, have become increasingly interested in Ceramic coatings. Not just for the boat, but for the truck and cars too. The threads here are extensive, the installers are popping up everywhere. Havasu has a handful of installers. It is also getting harder to discern between premium and knock off brands. Then, there are the skeptics that think ceramic coating is all smoke and mirrors. The oldskool crowd say wax is the still the best. We had always cared for the Hallett like any boat owner would. Speed Gloss wipe down after each day, seasonal wash and wax, interior etc. Even with the best of efforts, time, sun, and fun catches up.

Top side was getting more and more oxidized, micro scratches from years of use, some cover rash, typical stuff. True to fashion, we DIY'd this job. Couldn't justify $1500.00+ to have a detailer do this, and also coordinating the time for pick up and drop off was just not convenient.

Hallett had done a cut and buff, probably 10 or more years ago, when it went in for the original cylinder head work. So it was due for a touch up.

We dove right into the job, so I didn't get good before pictures, but use your imagination, the boat has always been 8/10 with some 7/10 spots, and some love scratches here and there. The swim step was probably the worst and was crazed pretty bad. Saleen had suggested just getting a new one made. So the results we got were great, and brought the life back.

Again, went OCD, researched everything from part store spray on ceramic, to professional 5oz high solids SiO2, and everything in between. Settled on a mixture of products that seemed to be the most IDIOT proof and lessen any chances of burning the gel, or swirling the finish, etc.

Started with Chemical Guys Citrus Wash, to clean everything off, Wipe Out surface prep, then started the cut and buff. After cut and buff, one more pass with the surface prep to remove any residual compound. Then using an applicator used the HydroSlick Ceramic Wax to lock in the polished surface. We topped the ceramic with Meguiar's for an extra layer of protection.

How well this all holds up and performs is TBD because of the Corona-virus, the boat has been parked since then.

I already had DA Porter-cable polisher, so I just bought a Velcro backer plate and foam pads, as well as, an assortment of 3" pads to put in the corded drills for the tight spots.

Performance Boat Candy:
Crystal Cut Extreme Compound
Crystal Cut Compound
Crystal Cut Polish

Chemical Guys:
Wipe Out - Surface Prep
HydroSlick - Ceramic Wax

Meguiar's
Flagship Marine - Carnauba wax as an extra top coat.

DuraCoat Tire Coating.

We did the tires right after the wash. We've always used tire gels and sprays, and it is always messy. One trip to the ramp, and its all brown and dusty. So DuraCoat had been peaking my interest for a long time. The trailer tires are going to be the guinea pig, then maybe I'll do the truck. We scrubbed three times with Comet and Softscrub to get the silicone gels off, and then three more rinses with the cleanser in the DuraCoat kit. After drying we did 2-3 good coats of the DuraCoating. They dried really nice and with no residue, so far I'm impressed with the shine, we shall see if it holds up to trailering and launching the boat this season.
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85RiverRAT

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We set up a little work table and got going. The swim step was a good place to start, and gain some confidence. Turns out that you can get pretty aggressive with the Boat Candy product and not worry about damaging anything. We figured out the pressure, and how quickly it works. The extreme cut was good for the heavier oxidation, there are some micro scratches, like around the cleats, that would need color sanding to get it out. The overall clarity that comes back to the finish is impressive. The extreme cut wasn't needed on the whole boat, probably 20%, the other 80% we started with the Crystal Cut Compound. Like color sanding a hot rod, we stepped up to the polish, anything that got Extreme Cut or Crystal Cut, was worked back up in stages with less coarse pads back to the Polish compound.

The internet is great. I felt really confident watching the Demo videos at the Performance Boat Candy website. They show the compounds and how to work it, and sell the foam pads on the website. It tuned out the noise of just google searching this topic, or reading endless blogs. The Boat Candy was straight forward to, vs. brands like 3M or Meguiar's that has 100's of professional grade compounds, swirl removers, polishes etc. Really to confusing.

The better part of the first day was spent above the rubrail and on the transom. After compounding and polishing, I used Chemical Guys Wipe Out again, which is a wax and grease remover, to remove any compound residue, and to inspect our progress. Everything was looking as good as we could get it, so we topped with Chemical Guys HydroSlick Ceramic wax. Chemical Guys told me not to, but the kid that replied to my email, I'm not sure he knew what I was asking. The chemicals in their HydroSlick are the same in all these Ceramics, it is a hydrogel suspended SiO2, so it is the same shit everyone has, just in a unique fluid suspension. It is a little different then the pure SiO2 were you see these guys using quetips and gloves putting this stuff on, or the parts store sprays that you use like windex. It is in between. So I said WTH, try it. If we mess up, then have a pro clean and redo our work. Chemical Guys also advertise that this stuff goes on everything from glass to plastic and is clear coat safe, so naturally they haven't explored Gel Coat, I may give them feedback after the season to share how it holds up. The wax application turned out to be really easy and helpful to track were you have applied it. It doesn't haze up like wax, but you can keep to small sections and track your progress.

This is the swim step, and top side after the first day!! :cool:. Lots of elbow grease and sore arms. The Black gel, on Carpe Diem was turning gray and this work, had it bright black again, really happy, and all the burnt in water spots came out too.
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85RiverRAT

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Next day was all on the sides. Everything above the rub rail, also got a top coat of Meguiar's Flagship wax, as an extra layer. We are really happy with the results. The whole boat was much brighter, the yellowing in the White gel was gone, and really POPPED more then it had in a long time. The big save was the swim step, which was looking really sad. It was a ton of work, but it really took a few years off her. Can't wait to get back out on the water, this quarantine is causing big time cabin fever.
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85RiverRAT

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Final note on the PROPS. Hill Propellers, aka Hill Marine, did an awesome job, once again on the props. We hadn't polished or tuned them since the Lake Powell trip. A week in the water at Powell had them all corroded. Normal day use at Havasu wasn't really an issue. These guys are bright and shinny again.
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85RiverRAT

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New Canvas on the Bimini. I'd though we'd have done more boating last season, but we stayed away from the COVID rush to the lake that happened last summer and only went out a few times, and to HIH.

Last month we had the Bimini recovered.

Shout out to Custom Covers Lake Havasu City (Michelle). I had wanted to bring the bimini home to Custom Canvas Montclair CA. and have them make a new cover, by the time we got around to it they had closed up shop, via. Instagram, it seems though they are taking limited appointments out of there home, so I could have still brought the bimini home and had them do it. Weighing the options, we drove over to Michelle's place, which is 5mins from us in LHC.

She's great to work with and was really helpful accommodating our drop off and pick up for when we were going to be in town. Really like the way it matches the OG Custom Canvas, we specifically asked her to pattern as close as possible the original cover, to keep the signature Hallett looks. She also made us a new boot, out of purple to keep the dirt from showing as much. All material is sunbrella attached to our original frame. There are subtle differences in her seams and hems compared to custom canvas but the overall result is really close, we're pretty pleased with the out come and re-freshed top. The original was 20 years old and getting kind of ratty.
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85RiverRAT

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FEB 2023: Annual detail and new fuel sending unit.

The aforementioned DIY Ceramic didn't hold up. While bright, the gel, was "dried out". The top coat of wax failed early on in the season. 21' and 22' we went back to the regular wax routine. The polish job held up, so we are just wax on top of the polished boat, which is nice.

The DuraCoat Tire coating is working okay, just needs to be reapplied once in awhile. Marina dust and dirt doesn't cling to the tires because they are dry, not all silicone'd up with tire dressing.

For this season we tried POXY 3D, plugged by @OldSchoolBoats I believe out in the lounge. The higher melt temp, and gloss were a compelling sell, over the steadfast Meguiar's Flagship.

Pretty impressed with the results. The wet, high gloss, depth, and smooth finish were really good. The season will tell if it holds up. SHAMELESS DRIVE-WAY PHOTOS.

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FUEL SENDER. For longer than we can remember, the sending unit has been un-reliable. The swing arm, for whatever reasons was never accurate, even after adjustments etc. etc. For years we gauged our fuel capacity/range based on GPH, and engine run-time, because the fuel gauge was so inconsistent. Topped off sometimes would read full, but then based on burn, the gauge was always off. Finally, pulled the trigger and upgraded to a this shaft style float. Swapped it out while working on things. Sunday while running the boat, floating in neutral, was reading the same as dead level in the garage, something we never had before with the old sender. Check that up to an improvement.
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OldSchoolBoats

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FEB 2023: Annual detail and new fuel sending unit.

The aforementioned DIY Ceramic didn't hold up. While bright, the gel, was "dried out". The top coat of wax failed early on in the season. 21' and 22' we went back to the regular wax routine. The polish job held up, so we are just wax on top of the polished boat, which is nice.

The DuraCoat Tire coating is working okay, just needs to be reapplied once in awhile. Marina dust and dirt doesn't cling to the tires because they are dry, not all silicone'd up with tire dressing.

For this season we tried POXY 3D, plugged by @OldSchoolBoats I believe out in the lounge. The higher melt temp, and gloss were a compelling sell, over the steadfast Meguiar's Flagship.

Pretty impressed with the results. The wet, high gloss, depth, and smooth finish were really good. The season will tell if it holds up. SHAMELESS DRIVE-WAY PHOTOS.

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FUEL SENDER. For longer than we can remember, the sending unit has been un-reliable. The swing arm, for whatever reasons was never accurate, even after adjustments etc. etc. For years we gauged our fuel capacity/range based on GPH, and engine run-time, because the fuel gauge was so inconsistent. Topped off sometimes would read full, but then based on burn, the gauge was always off. Finally, pulled the trigger and upgraded to a this shaft style float. Swapped it out while working on things. Sunday while running the boat, floating in neutral, was reading the same as dead level in the garage, something we never had before with the old sender. Check that up to an improvement. View attachment 1204959


I think you will like the wax. I used it for years on my Howard and it held up well. The key is to not spray down with Hot Sauce or anything like that until the surface has cooled down. I usually just wiped the water off with a towel or 2 and then sprayed down in the garage the next morning before going out.
 

BUDMAN

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Beautiful Float, We just got a 270 with almost the same colors and SAME NAME!
Now it all makes since. I had seen your post with the boat name and thought no way in hell Eric sold the boat 🤦🏻‍♂️. 🤣🤣
 

Nanu/Nanu

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FEB 2023: Annual detail and new fuel sending unit.

The aforementioned DIY Ceramic didn't hold up. While bright, the gel, was "dried out". The top coat of wax failed early on in the season. 21' and 22' we went back to the regular wax routine. The polish job held up, so we are just wax on top of the polished boat, which is nice.

The DuraCoat Tire coating is working okay, just needs to be reapplied once in awhile. Marina dust and dirt doesn't cling to the tires because they are dry, not all silicone'd up with tire dressing.

For this season we tried POXY 3D, plugged by @OldSchoolBoats I believe out in the lounge. The higher melt temp, and gloss were a compelling sell, over the steadfast Meguiar's Flagship.

Pretty impressed with the results. The wet, high gloss, depth, and smooth finish were really good. The season will tell if it holds up. SHAMELESS DRIVE-WAY PHOTOS.

View attachment 1204954
View attachment 1204956 View attachment 1204957

FUEL SENDER. For longer than we can remember, the sending unit has been un-reliable. The swing arm, for whatever reasons was never accurate, even after adjustments etc. etc. For years we gauged our fuel capacity/range based on GPH, and engine run-time, because the fuel gauge was so inconsistent. Topped off sometimes would read full, but then based on burn, the gauge was always off. Finally, pulled the trigger and upgraded to a this shaft style float. Swapped it out while working on things. Sunday while running the boat, floating in neutral, was reading the same as dead level in the garage, something we never had before with the old sender. Check that up to an improvement. View attachment 1204959
Do you have a link to the specific float/sender you purchased. I have found a few on Amazon but im not sure if thats what you used.

You have an awesome boat and thank you for your thread!
 

85RiverRAT

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Do you have a link to the specific float/sender you purchased. I have found a few on Amazon but im not sure if thats what you used.

You have an awesome boat and thank you for your thread!
This was a CP Performance part.

https://www.cpperformance.com/p-74416-sfw-fuelwater-level-senders.aspx

You will need to know the depth of the tank at the pick up. We had to take everything out, measure, put it back together, and then place an order. Not too complicated just a pain.

Only issue was needing to re-cinch the new cork gasket after install. We were seeping gas into the bilge. Caught it before there was a problem. Has been working great otherwise much more accurate.
 
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Nanu/Nanu

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This was CP Performance part.

https://www.cpperformance.com/p-74416-sfw-fuelwater-level-senders.aspx

You will need to know the depth of the tank at the pick up. We had to take everything out, measure, put it back together, and then place an order. Not too complicated just a pain.

Only issue was needing to re-cinch the new cork gasket after install. We were seeping gas into the bilge. Caught it before there was a problem. Has been working great otherwise much more accurate.
Thanks man!
 

ArizonaKevin

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have you done anything on the BIII? My FIL has a BIII that is due for an engine rebuild, and the drive is causing some concern.
 

85RiverRAT

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have you done anything on the BIII? My FIL has a BIII that is due for an engine rebuild, and the drive is causing some concern.
Yes, the whole drive was rebuilt, during the original engine rebuild. New upper/lower gear set, all the guts, new lower prop shaft, I think we did bellows too. The vertical shaft was already an IMCO piece from way, way back.
 
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