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Residential incoming voltage min/max

SoCalDave

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What’s the limits on overvoltage for incoming power to the panel.
Currently experiencing 278-280vac on two phase and 138-140vac on the single phase side.
 

grumpy88

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I'm not a expert on home power but I would say that's extremely high . I would make a phone call to the power provider and take a picture of your meter showing that
 

highvoltagehands

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That voltage is high for residential service. I'd contact utility asap, the service transformer or a voltage regulator in the area is probably going bad.


Nationally Residential & Commercial service voltage should be within -+5% of designed rated service voltage.

Normal Residential service voltage should be 120/240 volts, so at -+5% can be the following:
Phase to ground 120 voltage can be -+114-126 volts, Phase to phase 240 voltage can be -+228-252 volts.

Normal 3 phase Commercial service voltage are normally either 120/208 volts or 277/480 volts, so -+5% can be:
Phase to ground 120 voltage can be -+114-126 volts, Phase to phase 208 voltage can be -+197-218 volts.
Phase to ground 277 voltage can be -+267-290 volts, Phase to phase 480 voltage can be -+456-504 volts.
 

Taboma

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What’s the limits on overvoltage for incoming power to the panel.
Currently experiencing 278-280vac on two phase and 138-140vac on the single phase side.

Yeah, that's way to high, unless it's your meter. I'd sure make the call and report it and I wouldn't want to be running anything sensitive I cared much about.
 

SoCalDave

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What made you check the voltage?
Curiosity as I’m doing some lighting upgrades and had some issues. Went back to square one and noticed the high voltage readings.

Thought it was on the high side as welll and calling SCE in the morning.

Actually experienced this some 30+ years ago but I was down in the 91-94vac range. SCE made some adjustments and we were good to go after that.
 

braindead

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Curiosity as I’m doing some lighting upgrades and had some issues. Went back to square one and noticed the high voltage readings.

Thought it was on the high side as welll and calling SCE in the morning.

Actually experienced this some 30+ years ago but I was down in the 91-94vac range. SCE made some adjustments and we were good to go after that.

SCE will probly be out in an hour and a half for quote/unquote routine maintanence. I say that because a customer of mine has a rental property where they were experiencing dimming lights when they used the new microwave on the new designated circuit my electricians just installed. I shit u not, at 12:15 the night before my electrician was going to stop by to check out the problem the renter hears some commotion in the alley and goes to investigate, he opens his back gate to see an SCE truck and a guy in a boom basket working on the power lines. The renter then tells the workers that he's experiencing some electrical trouble and asks if what there fixing could be the problem, there reply was "no, were just doing some routine maintanence". When my electrician shows up that morning the renter cannot duplicate the dimming experience they were experiencing before.

This isn't the first time that SCE wiring has fucked up this house, which cost my customer over $10K in damages because of edisons connections, but it will be the last. The electricians installed a ground rod so all the excess power can be sent away from the house and not through the electronics
 

rrrr

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This isn't the first time that SCE wiring has fucked up this house, which cost my customer over $10K in damages because of edisons connections, but it will be the last. The electricians installed a ground rod so all the excess power can be sent away from the house and not through the electronics

Sounds like the house electrical installation having a neutral issue and an improper ground had more to do with it than SCE.
 

SoCalDave

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Just called SCE and they're sending someone out to take a look at it.

Capture.JPG
 

Taboma

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This isn't the first time that SCE wiring has fucked up this house, which cost my customer over $10K in damages because of edisons connections, but it will be the last. The electricians installed a ground rod so all the excess power can be sent away from the house and not through the electronics

Perhaps this So-Called electrician should have just installed a battery bank to absorb all this "EXCESS POWER" and the poor owner could have recycled it back into his system during periods when his lights were dimming :confused::confused::confused: :rolleyes::rolleyes: ---- I realize you're not an electrician and I don't mean to ridicule, but quite honestly I think my head's going to explode after reading some of this shit :eek::eek:

Once while helping a fishing buddy when he asked I look into a long term problem his parents had been suffering and I encountered a real head scratcher electrical mystery.
I'd been in the business for 40 years at the time and kinda thought I'd seen everything --- nope, not close.
They'd had numerous electricians charge them $$$$, they jerry rigged this and that, came up with fascinating explanations (Complete bullshit) and of course they demanded payment, yet the problem persisted.
SDG&E had been called several times and always claimed it was the customer's side problem. After exhausting efforts on the customer side, I went about writing up a report proving it was on SDG&E's side. Because I spoke from experience, good credentials and had written up a logical report they couldn't refute, they came out, spent the time and discovered it was their problem --- but not really their fault. Seems a neighbor had hired a guy to dig and set a new mailbox, he'd damaged the direct burial underground cable :mad:

In truth, electricity is not some magical force, although at times might seem as such. The best service electricians are the ones who are in fact, the best detectives. They are the ones who possess not only the technical knowledge, but the ability to visualize and understand the chain of logic of cause and effect surrounding these various electrical anomalies.
Just as the best mechanics have the ability too follow the logic to correct a mechanical problem, while others are simply parts swappers hoping to get lucky.

Unfortunately there's a vast number of hacks out there masquerading as qualified electricians, it's not what they know that makes them dangerous, it what they think they know and don't. This of course isn't limited to electricians, I'm sure Riverbound could write a book on the shit he and his crews encounter in the HVAC business.

I recently had an "Appliance Repair" specialist over to cover a warranty repair for my combo-oven control panel. We pulled the oven out, he inspected it and immediately proclaimed that the part his company had already pre-shipped to me was wrong and he was leaving. I not only had to prove it was the correct part, but take over the screwdriver and show him how to remove the control panel and replace the board, which fit and worked perfectly.
This was warranty work, but I couldn't help but think about all the poor paying customers this guy fucks out of their hard earned money daily.

I'm so curious about SoCalDave's strange voltages and flickering LEDs I almost find myself wanting to help solve the mystery --- well ALMOST, LOL :D:D:D
 

SoCalDave

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Well unfortunately my nephew nor myself won't be there when they come out to inspect/resolve (hopefully) the issue today so I have some doubt that we may ever know what the cause was. His wife will be home but doubt they would convey any information to her as well...stay tuned...
 

braindead

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Sounds like the house electrical installation having a neutral issue and an improper ground had more to do with it than SCE.
Perhaps this So-Called electrician should have just installed a battery bank to absorb all this "EXCESS POWER" and the poor owner could have recycled it back into his system during periods when his lights were dimming :confused::confused::confused: :rolleyes::rolleyes: ---- I realize you're not an electrician and I don't mean to ridicule, but quite honestly I think my head's going to explode after reading some of this shit :eek::eek:

Once while helping a fishing buddy when he asked I look into a long term problem his parents had been suffering and I encountered a real head scratcher electrical mystery.
I'd been in the business for 40 years at the time and kinda thought I'd seen everything --- nope, not close.
They'd had numerous electricians charge them $$$$, they jerry rigged this and that, came up with fascinating explanations (Complete bullshit) and of course they demanded payment, yet the problem persisted.
SDG&E had been called several times and always claimed it was the customer's side problem. After exhausting efforts on the customer side, I went about writing up a report proving it was on SDG&E's side. Because I spoke from experience, good credentials and had written up a logical report they couldn't refute, they came out, spent the time and discovered it was their problem --- but not really their fault. Seems a neighbor had hired a guy to dig and set a new mailbox, he'd damaged the direct burial underground cable :mad:

In truth, electricity is not some magical force, although at times might seem as such. The best service electricians are the ones who are in fact, the best detectives. They are the ones who possess not only the technical knowledge, but the ability to visualize and understand the chain of logic of cause and effect surrounding these various electrical anomalies.
Just as the best mechanics have the ability too follow the logic to correct a mechanical problem, while others are simply parts swappers hoping to get lucky.

Unfortunately there's a vast number of hacks out there masquerading as qualified electricians, it's not what they know that makes them dangerous, it what they think they know and don't. This of course isn't limited to electricians, I'm sure Riverbound could write a book on the shit he and his crews encounter in the HVAC business.

I recently had an "Appliance Repair" specialist over to cover a warranty repair for my combo-oven control panel. We pulled the oven out, he inspected it and immediately proclaimed that the part his company had already pre-shipped to me was wrong and he was leaving. I not only had to prove it was the correct part, but take over the screwdriver and show him how to remove the control panel and replace the board, which fit and worked perfectly.
This was warranty work, but I couldn't help but think about all the poor paying customers this guy fucks out of their hard earned money daily.

I'm so curious about SoCalDave's strange voltages and flickering LEDs I almost find myself wanting to help solve the mystery --- well ALMOST, LOL :D:D:D

first RRR, the house was built in the 50's so grounding wasnt required/ standard practice back then.

The way it was explained to me by the electrician, Edison had a loose neutral off there lines in the street to the house weatherhead, meaning the flow of electricity was interrupted every time the wind blew the lines. So when the flow got interrupted it went through the electronics and overloaded them rather than following the path back through the neutral or through the non existent ground.

You're right Taboma I'm not an electrician, but am trying to learn a little more everyday, so if what I was told isn't correct feel free to enlighten me so I can further my education
 

buck35

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We had this problem a couple years back with a hot leg off the pole. When the wind blew the lights would flicker, then one Sunday half the house went dark and no 220. Wife called and they were out in an hour checking the panel, meter head and I said this only has occurred when the wind blows it has to be on the pole. Sure enough the connection off the line to the transformer was loose as a goose .
 

Taboma

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first RRR, the house was built in the 50's so grounding wasnt required/ standard practice back then.

The way it was explained to me by the electrician, Edison had a loose neutral off there lines in the street to the house weatherhead, meaning the flow of electricity was interrupted every time the wind blew the lines. So when the flow got interrupted it went through the electronics and overloaded them rather than following the path back through the neutral or through the non existent ground.

You're right Taboma I'm not an electrician, but am trying to learn a little more everyday, so if what I was told isn't correct feel free to enlighten me so I can further my education

A neutral somehow compromised, bad connection, corrosion, broken, etc ---- creates some very odd and often hard to diagnose symptoms, depending on where that interruption occurs in the circuit. When it occurs on the incoming utility feed and as the power seeks a return path to its source, your normally parallel wired circuits essentially become series/parallel connected across the two hot phases. Essentially the more devices that get turned on, the resistance in the return decreases and voltage continues to rise. One example, the more incandescent lights you turn on around the house that are connected to both phase A and Phase B, the brighter they all become as the voltage continues to increase. Same thing occurs with your electronics, often frying the equipment.

It's not excess power, it's power seeking a return in order to complete the circuit, traveling any path of conductance available, which as you turn on various devices, means through them.

In theory, the addition of a ground rod, which is grounded to the neutral at the main service, can act as the conductor for this return path. How well it can accomplish this depends on many factors, such as resistance to and through earth back to the source transformer. At best, it might mitigate some damage.
The couple of times I've personally ran into this, I never tested the theory. I knew one couple who lived with this for several years, as if they thought it was normal ???

I think it's great you want to learn --- search google for "Open Neutral" or "Floating Neutral" --- there's a lot of info, but often it's a bit heady. Electricity can get pretty pissy when it's deprived of an adequate way home, some times people die when they get in the middle of that path :eek::(

OK here's a really crude diagram, an extremely elementary example of what I've described above. You will see, how a broken utility side neutral can place normally parallel circuits in series and the current flow is altered. This can also happen anytime you've got two hot phases sharing the same neutral.
Good luck !!!

OH and for the record, I wasn't in any way slighting you --- any negative in my commentary was directed at electricians who make a living intentionally fucking folks, using fear tactics and selling them things just to increase their profit. Rest assured, they are out there. Some service companies offer bonuses to their electricians to encourage them to "Up Sell", that's not limited to the electrical side either. In this case, perhaps a new ground was warranted, perhaps not, I wasn't there. Certainly not a fix for this particular "Floating Neutral" problem, at best a band-aide.

Here's something to ponder -------- Oh, and what's really fun about Floating Utility Neutrals, depending on where the neutral is compromised, it can not only affect your house, but
your neighbors as well, as it flows through ground and water pipes, current is a tenacious bitch for sure :eek:
Open neutral.jpg
 

Bigbore500r

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A neutral somehow compromised, bad connection, corrosion, broken, etc ---- creates some very odd and often hard to diagnose symptoms, depending on where that interruption occurs in the circuit. When it occurs on the incoming utility feed and as the power seeks a return path to its source, your normally parallel wired circuits essentially become series/parallel connected across the two hot phases. Essentially the more devices that get turned on, the resistance in the return decreases and voltage continues to rise. One example, the more incandescent lights you turn on around the house that are connected to both phase A and Phase B, the brighter they all become as the voltage continues to increase. Same thing occurs with your electronics, often frying the equipment.

It's not excess power, it's power seeking a return in order to complete the circuit, traveling any path of conductance available, which as you turn on various devices, means through them.

In theory, the addition of a ground rod, which is grounded to the neutral at the main service, can act as the conductor for this return path. How well it can accomplish this depends on many factors, such as resistance to and through earth back to the source transformer. At best, it might mitigate some damage.
The couple of times I've personally ran into this, I never tested the theory. I knew one couple who lived with this for several years, as if they thought it was normal ???

I think it's great you want to learn --- search google for "Open Neutral" or "Floating Neutral" --- there's a lot of info, but often it's a bit heady. Electricity can get pretty pissy when it's deprived of an adequate way home, some times people die when they get in the middle of that path :eek::(

OK here's a really crude diagram, an extremely elementary example of what I've described above. You will see, how a broken utility side neutral can place normally parallel circuits in series and the current flow is altered. This can also happen anytime you've got two hot phases sharing the same neutral.
Good luck !!!

OH and for the record, I wasn't in any way slighting you --- any negative in my commentary was directed at electricians who make a living intentionally fucking folks, using fear tactics and selling them things just to increase their profit. Rest assured, they are out there. Some service companies offer bonuses to their electricians to encourage them to "Up Sell", that's not limited to the electrical side either. In this case, perhaps a new ground was warranted, perhaps not, I wasn't there. Certainly not a fix for this particular "Floating Neutral" problem, at best a band-aide.

Here's something to ponder -------- Oh, and what's really fun about Floating Utility Neutrals, depending on where the neutral is compromised, it can not only affect your house, but
your neighbors as well, as it flows through ground and water pipes, current is a tenacious bitch for sure :eek:
View attachment 701855
I have exactly this happening in my home. When we hit the garbage disposal, the lights in the kitchen get brighter (nothing extreme but its there). I haven't come across any "smoking gun" as to where the neutral issue is in the home, and it is an older home built in the 50's.
 

Taboma

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I have exactly this happening in my home. When we hit the garbage disposal, the lights in the kitchen get brighter (nothing extreme but its there). I haven't come across any "smoking gun" as to where the neutral issue is in the home, and it is an older home built in the 50's.

It was common practice in Kitchens to run a "Home Run" (Circuit(s) to panel) with two hots, sharing a common neutral. From the first junction box, each two wire (Hot and neutral) served different devices or lights.
It's quite possible the circuit for your disposer is sharing a neutral with your kitchen lights. The reason your kitchen lights are becoming brighter, is because once the disposer switch is closed, the lights and the disposer are now in series with each other across 220V, rather than parallel on 120V.

See that drawing I made above and imagine the broken neutral in a junction box, rather than on the utility side. You need to find the junction box where the 3 wire home run to the panel terminates, that's probably where the bad connection is. More than likely the connection isn't broken, but it's gotten loose. A loose connection gets hot, resistance rises, the connection degrades further, this can result in a fire. High resistance connections are dangerous --- you need to fix this !!!
 

Bigbore500r

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It was common practice in Kitchens to run a "Home Run" (Circuit(s) to panel) with two hots, sharing a common neutral. From the first junction box, each two wire (Hot and neutral) served different devices or lights.
It's quite possible the circuit for your disposer is sharing a neutral with your kitchen lights. The reason your kitchen lights are becoming brighter, is because once the disposer switch is closed, the lights and the disposer are now in series with each other across 220V, rather than parallel on 120V.

See that drawing I made above and imagine the broken neutral in a junction box, rather than on the utility side. You need to find the junction box where the 3 wire home run to the panel terminates, that's probably where the bad connection is. More than likely the connection isn't broken, but it's gotten loose. A loose connection gets hot, resistance rises, the connection degrades further, this can result in a fire. High resistance connections are dangerous --- you need to fix this !!!
Thanks for the heads up, defiantly going to check this out.
 

Taboma

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Thanks for the heads up, defiantly going to check this out.

Often the kitchen lights and the disposer switches are in the same box, if that's the case, it's highly likely that's where the common neutral point exists.
Be sure to shut off both circuit breakers, neutrals can become very HOT when they're open and you get between them. If the switches do not share a common switch box, then check the individual switch boxes and the disposer outlet box. Also be careful, old homes are usually poorly or not grounded at all to the devices. With this condition you don't want to get between the disposer and a ground --- like a water pipe, you might become that return path.
 

Waterjunky

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My current home was build in 1956. The wiring in it was done by the owner/architect/ builder. He was a great designer and builder, however an electrician he was not. Some of the house is grounded, I have found five sub-panels in the house, not a single junction box has a lid on it and when I bought it there was no main to shut the house off. Oh and the shop, well, and all outbuildings were scabbed into one of the house panels. That 5 sub panel thing doesn't count the subs in the outbuildings and such. I have started the rebuild process by moving the drop and such out of the house and have dedicated circuits to the house, shop, well and such. I am going to have to do something with the wiring in the house as a whole in the near future. I also have lights that change when a higher load appliance come on or off. The issue is that I am going to have to effectively just start over in the house. I am not looking forward to the carnage doing this. Complete rewires of existing structures are never cheap or fun. I should probably do the original galvanized plumbing at the same time..........
 

Bigbore500r

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Often the kitchen lights and the disposer switches are in the same box, if that's the case, it's highly likely that's where the common neutral point exists.
Be sure to shut off both circuit breakers, neutrals can become very HOT when they're open and you get between them. If the switches do not share a common switch box, then check the individual switch boxes and the disposer outlet box. Also be careful, old homes are usually poorly or not grounded at all to the devices. With this condition you don't want to get between the disposer and a ground --- like a water pipe, you might become that return path.
Sounds like an electrician is the way to go! Lol
 

Taboma

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My current home was build in 1956. The wiring in it was done by the owner/architect/ builder. He was a great designer and builder, however an electrician he was not. Some of the house is grounded, I have found five sub-panels in the house, not a single junction box has a lid on it and when I bought it there was no main to shut the house off. Oh and the shop, well, and all outbuildings were scabbed into one of the house panels. That 5 sub panel thing doesn't count the subs in the outbuildings and such. I have started the rebuild process by moving the drop and such out of the house and have dedicated circuits to the house, shop, well and such. I am going to have to do something with the wiring in the house as a whole in the near future. I also have lights that change when a higher load appliance come on or off. The issue is that I am going to have to effectively just start over in the house. I am not looking forward to the carnage doing this. Complete rewires of existing structures are never cheap or fun. I should probably do the original galvanized plumbing at the same time..........

With homes of this era, the code allowed for no main if there were 6 or less sub-divisions of load. Meaning 6 or less circuit breakers. In your case, with 5 sub-panels, that would be my guess. Lights growing dimmer when higher loads come on, is more than likely due to voltage drop as the higher current is demanded on old wiring and connections. In the 50's they didn't have 1800 Watt hair blowers or counter micro-waves, or AC units, so they weren't wired to accommodate those heavy loads. If the lights grow brighter, then see my posts above.

Also when you re-wire, pay particular attention to the code "Grounding" requirements for outbuildings, we're not in the 50's anymore Toto, lol :p
Good luck and have fun --- Chances are you've got ample attic and a raised foundation, both make re-wiring a bit easier, but still not fun.
 

DrunkenSailor

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My current home was build in 1956. The wiring in it was done by the owner/architect/ builder. He was a great designer and builder, however an electrician he was not. Some of the house is grounded, I have found five sub-panels in the house, not a single junction box has a lid on it and when I bought it there was no main to shut the house off. Oh and the shop, well, and all outbuildings were scabbed into one of the house panels. That 5 sub panel thing doesn't count the subs in the outbuildings and such. I have started the rebuild process by moving the drop and such out of the house and have dedicated circuits to the house, shop, well and such. I am going to have to do something with the wiring in the house as a whole in the near future. I also have lights that change when a higher load appliance come on or off. The issue is that I am going to have to effectively just start over in the house. I am not looking forward to the carnage doing this. Complete rewires of existing structures are never cheap or fun. I should probably do the original galvanized plumbing at the same time..........

Sounds like a mess. I want to do this as well. Our house was built in the early 80's but I think a series of home depot special owners combined with piss poor construction has left me with a jumble of wires that only resemble a properly wired home. It's on the ever expanding list.
 

Joe mama

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Just curious what the voltage reading was with all loads off....that will send you in the right direction. I would say definitely a neutral issue. I guess we are getting closer to figuring out the lighting issue. Lol

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Taboma

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Just curious what the voltage reading was with all loads off....that will send you in the right direction. I would say definitely a neutral issue. I guess we are getting closer to figuring out the lighting issue. Lol

If you don't mind me asking --- which of the above electrical posts above is this in reference too ? We've got all kinds-o-fun-shit going on, lol :confused::p
 

rrrr

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first RRR, the house was built in the 50's so grounding wasnt required/ standard practice back then.

The way it was explained to me by the electrician, Edison had a loose neutral off there lines in the street to the house weatherhead, meaning the flow of electricity was interrupted every time the wind blew the lines. So when the flow got interrupted it went through the electronics and overloaded them rather than following the path back through the neutral or through the non existent ground.



Based on the minimal information you posted, I correctly guessed the system had a neutral issue, but I assumed it was on the house side, not SCE's.The improper ground was a safety issue and code violation in the house's wiring in the 1950s, just as it would be today. There has always been a bond between the neutral and ground at the panel, and a sufficient grounding electrode (like a ground rod or the house water piping system) should have been properly connected to the grounding conductor at the panelboard. It sounds like that wasn't the case in the house we are talking about.

Proper bonding and grounding of the neutral at the homeowner's panelboard was required, even in the 1950s. What wasn't part of the electrical code back then was that the whole house grounding scheme be constructed in the manner required today. It's accomplished by an equipment grounding terminal connected to the third prong on each receptacle and the metallic parts of the switch, lamp, box, conduits, etc. of the system devices, and an equipment grounding conductor (wire) connecting these metallic parts to the ground bar in the house's main electrical distribution panel. The ground bar is then connected to the grounding electrode.

Since the equipment grounding terminal is connected to the metal parts of the receptacles, switches and lamps, and then tied to the separate equipment grounding conductor run in common with the hot and neutral conductors of the circuit, it provides a low impedance path for fault current from the remote locations of the system back to the main panel and the overcurrent device protecting the circuit.

The low impedance and integrity of the fault current path assures that in the event of a short circuit, the current carried through the fault circuit path will be sufficient to trip the circuit breaker and open the circuit.

The 1950s version of a grounding system didn't have the dedicated grounding conductor running with each branch circuit, and the system devices (the receptacles, switches and lamps, etc.) didn't have their metal parts connected to ground. This meant a short circuit or fault in those branch circuits might not trip a overcurrent device at the panel, allowing current to flow through the path of least resistance. That could result in a the body of a metal table lamp being energized for example, which would obviously be a safety hazard that could be deadly.

I don't know the history of how and when the current grounding requirements were added to the NEC. It was decades ago.
 

braindead

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A neutral somehow compromised, bad connection, corrosion, broken, etc ---- creates some very odd and often hard to diagnose symptoms, depending on where that interruption occurs in the circuit. When it occurs on the incoming utility feed and as the power seeks a return path to its source, your normally parallel wired circuits essentially become series/parallel connected across the two hot phases. Essentially the more devices that get turned on, the resistance in the return decreases and voltage continues to rise. One example, the more incandescent lights you turn on around the house that are connected to both phase A and Phase B, the brighter they all become as the voltage continues to increase. Same thing occurs with your electronics, often frying the equipment.

It's not excess power, it's power seeking a return in order to complete the circuit, traveling any path of conductance available, which as you turn on various devices, means through them.

In theory, the addition of a ground rod, which is grounded to the neutral at the main service, can act as the conductor for this return path. How well it can accomplish this depends on many factors, such as resistance to and through earth back to the source transformer. At best, it might mitigate some damage.
The couple of times I've personally ran into this, I never tested the theory. I knew one couple who lived with this for several years, as if they thought it was normal ???

I think it's great you want to learn --- search google for "Open Neutral" or "Floating Neutral" --- there's a lot of info, but often it's a bit heady. Electricity can get pretty pissy when it's deprived of an adequate way home, some times people die when they get in the middle of that path :eek::(

OK here's a really crude diagram, an extremely elementary example of what I've described above. You will see, how a broken utility side neutral can place normally parallel circuits in series and the current flow is altered. This can also happen anytime you've got two hot phases sharing the same neutral.
Good luck !!!

OH and for the record, I wasn't in any way slighting you --- any negative in my commentary was directed at electricians who make a living intentionally fucking folks, using fear tactics and selling them things just to increase their profit. Rest assured, they are out there. Some service companies offer bonuses to their electricians to encourage them to "Up Sell", that's not limited to the electrical side either. In this case, perhaps a new ground was warranted, perhaps not, I wasn't there. Certainly not a fix for this particular "Floating Neutral" problem, at best a band-aide.

Here's something to ponder -------- Oh, and what's really fun about Floating Utility Neutrals, depending on where the neutral is compromised, it can not only affect your house, but
your neighbors as well, as it flows through ground and water pipes, current is a tenacious bitch for sure :eek:
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No worries, I appreciate you looking out and informing me on the visciousness of electricity. Our electrician used to work at most malls throughout the US running wire for some pretty big department stores and has now decided to slow down and stay local. He's got some stories to tell about schiesty electricians and the crap they try to pull on innocent people.

And my plumber can attest to the passage way of electricity, he was changing a water heater and had 220 running thru him and the copper pipes he was holding when he disconnected the supply line to the tank. Almost Fried his ass and most of the electronics in the house, but he managed to live through it. The electrician explained what happened, but I don't remember 100%.
 
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