overtime
Boobs we all love um
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- Aug 30, 2008
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Do you have the model number in this relay? Or the Amazon link
Do you have the model number in this relay? Or the Amazon link
Did you guys install a circuit breaker or fuse? I was told I was supposed to so I did
Shit I probably do need one. Now is this pick with a two ram set up or do I need two relays?
Did you guys install a circuit breaker or fuse? I was told I was supposed to so I did
Yea you will want a breaker or fuse on the main power wire to the relay.
Ok added it to my cart. Can someone really dumb it down for me? There are a positive and negative that come from each ram.
So you run a new ground and a new positive off the battery to the relay? Then from the relay those four wires to the Rams are plugged in? Where would a fuse breaker go?
Thanks for taking the time. That's some professional RDP work!
So on the bottom there will be four wires getting plugged in, two for each ram going to the switch?
And on the top there will be four also? That's a lot of wiring! Lol
So I bought the relay from the Amazon link. Service guy said I'm already getting full power to the Rams, they just are installed in such a way causing them to bottom out when closed ,which makes them stick.
I have a brand new relay if anyone is interested and I'm headed to havasu. View attachment 490354 View attachment 490355
I'd be curious as to what "full power" means. If he is testing for 12v but not under load, you will still have an issue. Mine used to stick when shut also.....
The relay fixed that 100%
Maybe I should buy a meter myself and see. A voltmeter is what I need? Then read it as the hatch is moving?
That will work
To test voltage you simply touch positive lead of tester to positive wire and same with negative.
To test amps you much put the tester in series (inline).
You will likely see significant voltage drop when you run the actuator under load. This is a sign that the wiring is not capable of moving enough amps in that size wiring over that distance. You will likely find also if you ran the actuator for extended ups and downs the wiring would get very warm to hot. Another sign of not adequate wire size for distance. Wiring and connections should never be anywhere near hot if of adequate size for the load.
Imagine a plumbing pipe capable of passing 1 gpm at given pressure and a device requiring 3 gpm on the end, of liquid. Analogy is that you would be starving the hatch ram for juice (amps). Amps is volume of current in the analogy.
ps your tester only has a 10 amp setting so unless you KNOW that the ram requires less than 10A I'd advise not trying that test with that meter.
Rex I really appreciate the response. So I tested the voltage first by putting the tester on the positive and negative terminal. It read 15. Then I did it under load at the ram and it read 11.5.
Btw it doesn't sound like it is suffering a power loss. What are your thoughts?
Ours are just not going to open super fast. I have not seen anyone with rams like ours open in a second or two. The boats that have the small ram on the hinge open in a couple seconds. Is yours sticking anywhere? Mine does not stick, but one closes about 1/2" before the other side. It takes maybe 5-7 seconds to open or close.
Is from 13.8 to 11.1 a significant loss?
You will get differing opinons. I don't think it is too bad of a loss...but you are getting close to 10 volts at which point I'd replace the battery. The thing is that it is a temporary drop. It sounds like the battery recovers. When you start the boat, I bet the voltage drops way lower than 11 volts.
It's not ideal...but it is workable.
Great idea with cables!
Thank you. I'll keep looking at this. I'm gonna hit the water and drink some beer.
Are you getting the 11.1 at the battery or at the ram? in my opinion if you're getting a reading of 11.1 at the ram and anything higher at the battery when you first hit the up switch, your wiring is too small.
It just sticks in the closed position. I have to toggle back and fourth to get it to start opening.
11.1 at the ram while it's moving.
What is the battery voltage, off the charger while it is moving?
That I don't know. I guess that's a better gauge of loss...
So I bought the relay from the Amazon link. Service guy said I'm already getting full power to the Rams, they just are installed in such a way causing them to bottom out when closed ,which makes them stick.
I have a brand new relay if anyone is interested and I'm headed to havasu. View attachment 490354 View attachment 490355
I tried to follow the thread but couldn't figure out if you ended up installing this or not, I need one, if its still available I will take it![]()
You should try this relay. Way easy to install.
http://www.leashelectronics.com/Dual-70-Amp-Relay-Board-D70RB.htm
View attachment 504407
I tried to follow the thread but couldn't figure out if you ended up installing this or not, I need one, if its still available I will take it![]()
either relay will do the job. The one on amazon is like $20 bucks! 70 amp rating.
A well rigged boat has a removable cushion or panel where you can access a pin to release ram. Or a remote charge point to get your batteries back up.
So i got a question, say one were to show up to get boat, upon opening hatch you realize your batteries are dead, how do you get hatch up?
My boat has two access holes under the back seat where I can pull the pin and lift the hatch up manually. I keep a piece of PVC pipe to prop it up with and then do whatever I have to do.