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Hatch ram wiring

Racey

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So i got a question, say one were to show up to get boat, upon opening hatch you realize your batteries are dead, how do you get hatch up?

If your hatch doesn't have an accessible pin on the actuator there are a couple things you can do, if you have a cigarette lighter you can use a cigarette lighter charger. You can also make up a jumper cord that you can connect a regular charger to and run it lower than 10a

If you have easy access to your dash wiring you can clip a jump to any main hot and ground and back feed power into the system with a jumper box, or battery charger.

You can install actual jumper posts into your rear seat base (Halletts that the batteries under the seat base have these standard)


Many times the hatch pins can be difficult and it's just easier to jumper power into the system.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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My boat has two access holes under the back seat where I can pull the pin and lift the hatch up manually. I keep a piece of PVC pipe to prop it up with and then do whatever I have to do.

Mine has this as well. I store my boat in the garage, but usually store it with the hatch up enough to reach in for battery access.

But jumper posts in the back seat is a great idea.
 

boatnam2

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If your hatch doesn't have an accessible pin on the actuator there are a couple things you can do, if you have a cigarette lighter you can use a cigarette lighter charger. You can also make up a jumper cord that you can connect a regular charger to and run it lower than 10a

If you have easy access to your dash wiring you can clip a jump to any main hot and ground and back feed power into the system with a jumper box, or battery charger.

You can install actual jumper posts into your rear seat base (Halletts that the batteries under the seat base have these standard)


Many times the hatch pins can be difficult and it's just easier to jumper power into the system.

I have a hallett so i will take a look, only looked in seat bases a few times messing with life jackets and don't remember seeing anything, I was thinking more about when i leave my boat in storage all winter, plan was to hook up a battery charger on last trip of summer and run cord outside of hatch.
 

No Butt No Putt

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I wired in my hatch ram relay b IMG_3579.jpg
 

AzGeo

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do you brain surgeons have this fucking 3 to 5 wire 'brain buster' figured out yet ?

Even without all the outside BS, this is a 'no brainer', and should have been gone long ago .

Does RDP need to have an 'electrical wiring school' for those who need help ?
 

HALLETT BOY

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If you have access to the hatch pin through the seat , don't close your hatch so tight that it makes it almost impossible to pull the pin , stop it about 1/4 inch of fully closed
 

Big B Hova

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do you brain surgeons have this fucking 3 to 5 wire 'brain buster' figured out yet ?

Even without all the outside BS, this is a 'no brainer', and should have been gone long ago .

Does RDP need to have an 'electrical wiring school' for those who need help ?

4424514.jpg
 

AzGeo

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HA HA HA

Is this problem solved or not ?

I'd be happy to offer a wiring class for those who don't get what is going on here .

No one knows EVERYTHING, that's why we share info here .

I just can't understand why a 20/25 amp draw motor needs so much 'electrical engineering' in a fucking boat .
 

Big B Hova

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HA HA HA

Is this problem solved or not ?

I'd be happy to offer a wiring class for those who don't get what is going on here .

No one knows EVERYTHING, that's why we share info here .

I just can't understand why a 20/25 amp draw motor needs so much 'electrical engineering' in a fucking boat .

Mine works just fine :)
 

Bobby V

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HA HA HA

Is this problem solved or not ?

I'd be happy to offer a wiring class for those who don't get what is going on here .

No one knows EVERYTHING, that's why we share info here .


I just can't understand why a 20/25 amp draw motor needs so much 'electrical engineering' in a fucking boat .

Make up your mind. A few months ago you were bitching about everyone asking questions looking for free advice on here instead of going to a certified shop. :rolleyes
 

Rexone

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This is one reason I almost NEVER bother post on forums any longer. Most threads end up like this with someone bitching or being an asshole. I'm available at [email protected] if anyone needs help. Over n out.
 

Bigbore500r

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What size fuse did you do between the battery and battery post on the relay?
I'm pretty sure I ran #12 stranded wire, and a 30 amp blade-style fuse. I used it all year and the fuse held fine, it may be a bit larger than I needed to go amp wise but i coudn't find the amp draw listed online and was too lazy to measure it before ordering the parts :D. I figured the the #12 stranded wire I used was rated over 30amps, so it was safe to use.
 

28Eliminator

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I'm pretty sure I ran #12 stranded wire, and a 30 amp blade-style fuse. I used it all year and the fuse held fine, it may be a bit larger than I needed to go amp wise but i coudn't find the amp draw listed online and was too lazy to measure it before ordering the parts :D. I figured the the #12 stranded wire I used was rated over 30amps, so it was safe to use.

Perfect, thanks [emoji106]
 

28Eliminator

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Holy mother of god... that works awesome[emoji106][emoji106]. My hatch goes up at least twice as fast as it ever did.

Anyone contemplating doing this, it's well worth it, and simple to do.
 

Big B Hova

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Holy mother of god... that works awesome[emoji106][emoji106]. My hatch goes up at least twice as fast as it ever did.

Anyone contemplating doing this, it's well worth it, and simple to do.

Big difference. No noticeable draw in power. Rams work at full speed.
 

Big B Hova

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Mine was painfully slow and sometimes wouldn't work when it was 115 degrees. Keep in mind my boat is a 1991!

[video=youtube;N9W7eJg804k]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9W7eJg804k[/video]
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Cool. That is about as fast as mine.

Is there a "travel" adjustment on these rams? I have 2 and one closes 1/2 in before the other one.
 

Big B Hova

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The rams are a screw type deal. I wonder if you can disconnect one from the hatch and spin it as few times to even it out?
 

rrrr

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.

Anyone considering replacement of circuit wiring to minimize voltage drop in a DC circuit should consult a wire sizing chart. The chart will indicate the proper wire size, taking circuit current and voltage drop Into consideration.

When calculating voltage drop, remember to double the length of the circuit from point A to point B, because the length of the positive and negative wires together make up the circuit distance. I use Ancor marine wire exclusively for installing circuits in my boats. The wire is drawn to a finer diameter for better flexibility and endurance. Each strand is also tin plated to practically eliminate corrosion. The service heat rating of the wire insulation is 105 degrees F, twice that of Walmart or Auto zone primary wire.

I always use Ancor compression connectors that have an extended insulation sleeve made from heat shrink materiel and lined with a heat activated adhesive. Don't overstrip the insulation. It must not allow bare wire to be outside the coverage area of the connector insulation.

Buy a good calibrated crimper with machined steel dies. Throw away the piece of crap you've owned since you began fixing the wiring problems on your first jet boat. They're worthless.

.

45501.jpg

.

Here's a wire sizing chart. When you look at it you'll think "these people are crazy, that's way too big.

But it's sized for a 3% voltage drop. Excessive voltage drop caused this thread to be generated. Just shut up and pull the recommended size. Another place where wire size is almost always incorrect is the power circuit for MSD ignition boxes. MSD recommends a negative and positive #12 AWG from the box directly to the battery. If your box is mounted more than 10' from the battery, upside the wire to #10.

.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
 

Big B Hova

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.

Anyone considering replacement of circuit wiring to minimize voltage drop in a DC circuit should consult a wire sizing chart. The chart will indicate the proper wire size, taking circuit current and voltage drop Into consideration.

When calculating voltage drop, remember to double the length of the circuit from point A to point B, because the length of the positive and negative wires together make up the circuit distance. I use Ancor marine wire exclusively for installing circuits in my boats. The wire is drawn to a finer diameter for better flexibility and endurance. Each strand is also tin plated to practically eliminate corrosion. The service heat rating of the wire insulation is 105 degrees F, twice that of Walmart or Auto zone primary wire.

I always use Ancor compression connectors that have an extended insulation sleeve made from heat shrink materiel and lined with a heat activated adhesive. Don't overstrip the insulation. It must not allow bare wire to be outside the coverage area of the connector insulation.

Buy a good calibrated crimper with machined steel dies. Throw away the piece of crap you've owned since you began fixing the wiring problems on your first jet boat. They're worthless.

.

View attachment 555328

.

Here's a wire sizing chart. When you look at it you'll think "these people are crazy, that's way too big.

But it's sized for a 3% voltage drop. Excessive voltage drop caused this thread to be generated. Just shut up and pull the recommended size. Another place where wire size is almost always incorrect is the power circuit for MSD ignition boxes. MSD recommends a negative and positive #12 AWG from the box directly to the battery. If your box is mounted more than 10' from the battery, upside the wire to #10.

.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html

This would mean re-wiring my whole boat. Which one of these days I will probably do!
 

Rexone

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That's the value of the relay. It keeps you from having to rewire the whole boat. The stock wiring is adequate to run a relay but not to run the hatch ram. And check the dash switch they do fail from trying to pass too many amps over time. All problem areas. I've only seen a couple cases that couldn't be solved with a relay. Unless the motor's toast from operating at low voltage and amperage for years.
 

stokerwhore

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I don't have time to read this whole thread but it appears to be a good one. Has anyone posted the marine wiring color code chart? I have on my wall in the garage a print out of a thread on hotboat forums that has the whole color code. more usefull stuff. It's been on the wall since 2003 lol
 

bajaleo

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Just added the Rex Marine relay to my Renagade and the difference in hatch opening and closing is like night and day. Highly recommend.
 
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Motoxxxloak

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Wanted to bump this to the top because I’m absolutely stumped. I know I am overthinking it but I’m at a loss on where to start.

I have this Cole Hershee relay that’s been on the shelf. Boat is at my house so figured let me see if I can wire it up. The 4 wires from the hatch ram appear to splice into one set of two wires, and then go back to the switch. The switch is a 6 pole and seems to be rigged all weird. I’ve had issues where sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t and usually will cut power from the radio when hot. Is there any real easy way to install this using the existing wires?
 

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mjc

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What are all those wires in the first picture
 

Motoxxxloak

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What are all those wires in the first picture
Those are all the wires going into the hatch switch. The large blue and white wires come from the hatch themselves. The rest……still need to chase them to see exactly where they are coming from/going

Edit, one black from the bottom left of the switch jumps to the top right of the switch. The red from the bottom right of the switch jumps to the top left of the switch. Then, a black wire from the top right of the switch then jumps to the switch above, which is the fuel selector. It appears all of the grounds are daisy chained on each switch

One red from the bottom right and two blacks from the bottom left go into the main harness and disappear. Those are the ones I need to chase
 
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lbhsbz

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You definitely need more scotch locks…it ain’t proper boat wiring until there’s at least 9, but you’re headed in the right direction with the non sealed crimp connectors.
 

Happy Smitty

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Sorcery... Wiring that shit is an act of sorcery. Better off selling it and starting over.
 

Motoxxxloak

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You definitely need more scotch locks…it ain’t proper boat wiring until there’s at least 9, but you’re headed in the right direction with the non sealed crimp connectors.
Boat will be getting rewired possibly same time. I have some parts trickling in and deciding if I want to tackle it now or at the end of the season. It’s a mess under here. Not sure if it came from the factory this way but I’m over it for sure
 

mjc

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Those are all the wires going into the hatch switch. The large blue and white wires come from the hatch themselves. The rest……still need to chase them to see exactly where they are coming from/going

Edit, one black from the bottom left of the switch jumps to the top right of the switch. The red from the bottom right of the switch jumps to the top left of the switch. Then, a black wire from the top right of the switch then jumps to the switch above, which is the fuel selector. It appears all of the grounds are daisy chained on each switch

One red from the bottom right and two blacks from the bottom left go into the main harness and disappear. Those are the ones I need to chase
Looks like a bunch of stuff needs to go away. You only need a couple off the switch and all the power is new back by batteries and hatch ram.
 

Motoxxxloak

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Looks like a bunch of stuff needs to go away. You only need a couple off the switch and all the power is new back by batteries and hatch ram.
That’s my thought. Two wires from the 6 pole switch, to the relay, ground and power from battery to relay. Where I’m lost is, what two wires/positions from the switch go to the relay and I assume I can pull the white and blue wire since they’re spliced already, and tie them directly into the relay


usually @02HoWaRd26 is my go to but I hate bugging him all the time 😂
 

mjc

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That’s my thought. Two wires from the 6 pole switch, to the relay, ground and power from battery to relay. Where I’m lost is, what two wires/positions from the switch go to the relay and I assume I can pull the white and blue wire since they’re spliced already, and tie them directly into the relay


usually @02HoWaRd26 is my go to but I hate bugging him all the time 😂
Get a new more correct switch may be easier than working with that one.
 

Taboma

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Here's a wiring diagram that although it states Non-Cole Hersee, it appears the terminals and wiring scheme is exactly the same.
Although I don't have the time right now to explain it fully, you will moving the motor leads to the appropriate terminals on the reversing module and routing new wires between ONE SIDE of the current switch as control wires to the module. The reversing module essentially duplicates the phase shifting of the switch that will now only be used to cause the module to reverse.

Have fun

Reversing Module wiring diagram.jpg
 

rrrr

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Although I don't have the time right now to explain it fully, you will moving the motor leads to the appropriate terminals on the reversing module and routing new wires between ONE SIDE of the current switch as control wires to the module.
You don't wanna explain a DPDT momentary switch?

😁
 

Taboma

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You don't wanna explain a DPDT momentary switch?

😁

Years ago I learned that simple drawings resulted in far better results and a lot less bewilderment when explaining motor control. 😁
Have you ever tried to explain "Three and four way" light switching wiring and watched a person's eyes roll back in their sockets ?? 🤣

So had I not run out of "RDP Time" last evening, I'd have posted something like these which could explain it far more simply than words.

DPDT DC reversing.jpg
DPDT Reversing Explained.jpg
 

Eliminator21vdrive

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You only need three to the switch and you can trigger the relay with power or ground it doesn't care (all three on switch)
 

Motoxxxloak

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Here's a wiring diagram that although it states Non-Cole Hersee, it appears the terminals and wiring scheme is exactly the same.
Although I don't have the time right now to explain it fully, you will moving the motor leads to the appropriate terminals on the reversing module and routing new wires between ONE SIDE of the current switch as control wires to the module. The reversing module essentially duplicates the phase shifting of the switch that will now only be used to cause the module to reverse.

Have fun

View attachment 1382379
Thank you for this. I’ll need to grab a circuit breaker but plan on giving this a shot this morning.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Part of your confusion is that you need power on that switch for up and down, so it reverses polarity in the 6 pin switch, so when you push up the switch powers UP wire and grounds down, then when you hit down it powers the DOWN wire and grounds the up wire.
Other issue is your boat hates you because you never take her for dates in the water just on the trailer.
 
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