oldman
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NOActually im pretty sure they are stainless.
NOActually im pretty sure they are stainless.
The actual ring is cheap ass steel. It has a stainless ball bearing inside the barrel. Attacking the barrel just causes you more trouble.
If they are gold they are carbon steelAll the ones they install here are stainless![]()
I did good on that side, I was scared shitless I was going to screw up everything for the neighborhood. I can tell you insulated gloves probably would have been a good idea though. Kids and wife were heading out, and I'd spent the night on the boat...it was F'n miserable in the place.i tryed this once and one of the wire hit the back of the bar that the breaker hooks on whole street went out and probly at least 4 edison trucks were there 10 minutes after that had to eat a little crow with them but at least they let me finnish changing the breaker
Needs black socks.Classic RDP style in the flip fops
I cut 16 meter rings on 1 job. HOA near the beach, sprinkler peds had rusted away and were falling over. PG&E said their tech was afraid to walk in the bushes couldn’t find them. I just cut them and used the seal rings that came with the new peds. I never heard nothing about it.sawzall wont cut it. torch will melt the plastic meter a piece of sheet metal by the meter and grinder small cuts only way
mehhhh older home likely 100amp, like playing real life operation easy peasyI mean in litterally every way pulling the meter is safer than changing a 200 or 400amp main breaker live that’s bolted down with 2/0+ aluminum conductors fed into it lol.
I’ve worn out at least 6 sawzalls in my career. Sawzall is the wrong tool for the job. The ring slides around the meter socket. Sawzalls jump.If you couldn't get that off with a sawzall you're not very good at doing bad things![]()
I’ve worn out at least 6 sawzalls in my career. Sawzall is the wrong tool for the job. The ring slides around the meter socket. Sawzalls jump.
if all I had was a sawzall to cut a meter ring, I would drive to Home Depot and buy an angle grinder. I’m not going to scratch up someone’s service or break a meter because I didn’t have the correct tool with me.
They, the three that i mentioned, are all the wrong tool for the job. But they will all get you in. If you are wanting to use the correct tool you would need the key![]()
Have you ever even used a sawzall? A cutoff wheel is absolutely the correct tool for cutting that metal ring. How, exactly, do you plan on getting the sawzall blade on the ring? FYI, an actual sawzall has an orbital stroke, how are you going to keep the tip from bouncing off the material?
Have you ever even used a sawzall? A cutoff wheel is absolutely the correct tool for cutting that metal ring. How, exactly, do you plan on getting the sawzall blade on the ring? FYI, an actual sawzall has an orbital stroke, how are you going to keep the tip from bouncing off the material?
Could I cut a meter rings with a sawzall? Absolutely 100%.
Would I cut a meter ring with a sawzall? No fucking way.
View attachment 1505604
Have you ever even used a sawzall? A cutoff wheel is absolutely the correct tool for cutting that metal ring. How, exactly, do you plan on getting the sawzall blade on the ring? FYI, an actual sawzall has an orbital stroke, how are you going to keep the tip from bouncing off the material?
Could I cut a meter rings with a sawzall? Absolutely 100%.
Would I cut a meter ring with a sawzall? No fucking way.
View attachment 1505604
Its a Sawz-all, not a Sawz-some.Have you ever even used a sawzall? A cutoff wheel is absolutely the correct tool for cutting that metal ring. How, exactly, do you plan on getting the sawzall blade on the ring? FYI, an actual sawzall has an orbital stroke, how are you going to keep the tip from bouncing off the material?
Could I cut a meter rings with a sawzall? Absolutely 100%.
Would I cut a meter ring with a sawzall? No fucking way.
View attachment 1505604
Tell me you don’t know how to use a sawzall without saying: “I don’t know how to use a sawzall”Its a Sawz-all, not a Sawz-some.
Just remove the foot and flip the blade or use a longer blade or whatever.
So the blade orbits on the down stroke? SMFH You still won’t get all the way the through the lock before bottoming out the saw and damaging the crap out of their stucco and the service high likelihood of damaging the meter. I will say this, I am impressed with your commitment to stupidity.Nice red line. I'd start with turning the blade around genius![]()
So the blade orbits on the down stroke? SMFH You still won’t get all the way the through the lock before bottoming out the saw and damaging the crap out of their stucco and the service high likelihood of damaging the meter. I will say this, I am impressed with your commitment to stupidity.
600V rated....so long as they aren't wetClassic RDP style in the flip fops
Just because you can doesn’t mean you should. Generally sawzall is for cutting rough building materials and seldom is it for finish materials. It is designed for fast rough cuts. I don’t know if you have ever cut one of these locking rings but they slide around the collar. You would need some way of securing the ring to the service to keep it from moving. Without the shoe engage, it’s pure mussel to keep the blade from pulling the saw toward the service or stucco on the up stroke and bouncing off. I can plunge cut into CDX with ease and probably could get the ring off with a sawzall. But I wouldn’t.If you've used a sawsall over many years, you can practically do surgery with it.. Not sure why I'm still reading this thread..![]()
“Sorry, I dropped a few screws. Not sure what I did with the blank. It didn’t have a hole for the breaker.”
Tweakers?The amount of anger and force this took vs just removing it lol. View attachment 1505768 View attachment 1505769
Yep looks pretty tweaked to meTweakers?
It’s on a horse property pretty far from the street. I only found it because the excavator installing drains hit a different line in the same cabinet.Tweakers?
Don't be so sure, It's still all the same old buss work behind those new breakers.
Don't be so sure, It's still all the same old buss work behind those new breakers.![]()
dielectric grease is not conductive; it is an electrical insulator designed to protect connections from moisture and corrosion. It should be applied to the outside of electrical connections, not between them, to ensure good conductivity.Dude...
Scotch-Brite and dialectic grease for the win.
Did I mention that I had a friend who's a lineman?![]()
dielectric grease is not conductive; it is an electrical insulator designed to protect connections from moisture and corrosion. It should be applied to the outside of electrical connections, not between them, to ensure good conductivity.
You should have used conductive grease.
your Lineman friend should know better
40 years experience.
Isn't that the whole point, to keep this from happening again? No corrosion, no issues.
Like I said, this will definitely last longer than me.
Seriously you should be fine. I'm horrible about worst case scenariosHe wasn't here when I replaced em all.
The 100amp one went in dry, and it's staying that way!![]()
Dieelectric grease or Nolox that is or was typically used for aluminum connections ? Nolox is what's commonly used and is conductive and protective.Dude...
Scotch-Brite and dialectic grease for the win.
Did I mention that I had a friend who's a lineman?![]()
Seriously you should be fine. I'm horrible about worst case scenarios
Dieelectric grease or Nolox that is or was typically used for aluminum connections ? Nolox is what's commonly used and is conductive and protective.
The call for DG was to seal the boot to the plug or cap for water intrusion under the hood, We use DG in under ground components as a sealant not for conductivity. All of The conductive lugs are filled with a gritty NOLOX type grease, same with overhead conductors. The utility also buys wheel bearing grease in 5 gallon buckets, the guys carry in little jars with a brush.Back when cars had plug wires...
The manufacturer Required DG in both end of the wires, for all the obvious reasons.
Never saw any issues steming from that, so I made an executive decision to put a touch at the buss bar connections.
I'm pretty I'll be fine.
Post that shit on MikeHolt.com and that could generate 50 pages of sparkys expounding on why mechanics should stay in their own lane.Back when cars had plug wires...
The manufacturer Required DG in both end of the wires, for all the obvious reasons.
Never saw any issues steming from that, so I made an executive decision to put a touch at the buss bar connections.
I'm pretty I'll be fine.
Post that shit on MikeHolt.com and that could generate 50 pages of sparkys expounding on why mechanics should stay in their own lane.![]()
Now you've got an ole lineman schooling yo-ass, so my job here is done.Next time use Nolox, that's what it's made for as it serves both purposes --- but DO NOT use it on spark plug boots because where it goes, so does electricity.
I'm pretty sure you'll be fine too.![]()
If you think us RDP boaters argue, step into the Wide World of Sparky forums, which makes various religious faiths and denominations arguing over holy manuscripts seem like a big kumbaya love festival.It's definitely two different worlds.
I know enough to get myself in trouble when it comes to AC. But I'm also not afraid to ask (Stoopid) questions.
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What happened to the lock ring???
Legend has it, a sawzall took care of it.What happened to the lock ring???And where is the screw that holds the panel breaker cover on ???