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RDP'S "What are you working on?"

braindead

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Their is a hydraulic control valve on the top of one of the front landing gear. It controls both fronts in progression.
If any debris gets in it - it kills it. Dirt, left over, assembly scraps from not flushing the system out before final hookup.

First sign is it'll bleed down slowly but noticeable.
Then after a few strokes it fails entirely. Drops like a bowling ball.
Can drop the trailer on the bed of the pickup as you pull away if you don't notice it's acting up.

The mechanical front jacks are way better.

So for a precaution:
Two 12 ton Harbor freight bottle jacks on 6X8X22 cribbing may be enough to lift the 10 ton trailer. The frame is exposed up front maybe able to pull this off..
When I get it back on the driveway I'll experiment and try and demonstrate the signs that it's failing before a catastrophe hits somebody.

When we were dropping it off at the dealer service for warranty fix, another guy came in, his failed and landed on his tailgate - ruined it and the back of the bed.
Why not have a set of jackstands maids that way they’re always on the stands and never on the hydraulics for too long?Not to mention, if they do fail, the frame will be sitting on the jackstands, not the ground.
 

TPC

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Why not have a set of jackstands maids that way they’re always on the stands and never on the hydraulics for too long?Not to mention, if they do fail, the frame will be sitting on the jackstands, not the ground.

Jack stands don’t compensate for truck squat and the HF bottle jacks do the same function while lifting the rig a few critical inches as well.

As we put pull away the truck rises as it un hooks if the TH isn’t lifted.

Trying to avoid the resulting damage and have the right height to hook back up.

I’ll do a thread on how I solved this.
 

TPC

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Mine is around 18-19 loaded, if just picking up of the frame near the front, and resting on the tires in the back the 5 ton step jacks work good. Obviously a bottle jack is the cheaper route to go if you don't have step jacks laying around.
My plan is to lift the trailer and use cribbing under the retracted front landing gear at a height that’ll prevent damage and allow to hook back up.
 

Your ad here

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More progress on the saw I'm building. Finally made a belt guard for the engine. Its aluminum. Also install Murphy switch gauges. As it makes money it will get nicer.
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lenmann

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Taboma

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View attachment 1216260 View attachment 1216260 I know it’s just a Honda but this is my sons car and I wanted both my kids to learn a manual, for general purpose . It’s a swapped 95 motor in a 97 shell
I see a lot of cars using a K&N style intake such as this one, but without any engine compartment heat isolation (Box) and a means of cold air (Or outside air) supply. In this case heat exacerbated by headers.
I mention this based on experience when I ran a similar intake on my truck years ago.
Pulled into a gas station in Palm Springs, filled up and as I went to leave, the truck barely had enough power to accelerate at all while I was running up the freeway on-ramp. Fortunately by the time I'd reached the end of the long on-ramp, the latent engine compartment heat had been cleared sufficiently so power kept improving more rapidly.

I contacted K&N and they were adamant they'd encountered no similar problem during their testing, but admitted, they had not tested in the more extreme (108 degrees) temps.

Once again around San Diego, no similar problems. So now curious if I'd just experienced a fluke glitch, that next Saturday my wife and I drove it down to Borrego Springs where it was a similarly hot day. Pulled over by a park and sat there for a bit with the engine off. Maybe 10 minutes max. Then re-started and sure enough as I went to drive it away, I'd lost almost all power. Again as I continued to drive, it slowly cleared.

I called K&N, they offered a full refund, they paid for the return shipping and I got my refund, having learned a lesson.

My Whippled 5.0 Ford powered Miata had a similar open K&N setup, BUT, I'd had the hood louvered and cold air was ducted directly at the filter.
 

Yldboyz

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Finishing up converting the laundry room/storage into a stacked washer and dryer and full bath. Going to use a stainless steel kitchen sink so that it will be like a laundry tray with pull out faucet. Looking forward to getting this done. Still have to order up glass doors for all the bathrooms. 👍 Then going to rip out the windows and kitchen sometime this year as well. That is a bout it. :oops::oops::oops::oops:

View attachment 1211143 View attachment 1211144
Damn, that turned out nice, we're in the process of demoing our main bathroom and rid the bath tub. Do you have aby other pics of the shower?
 

HNL2LHC

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Damn, that turned out nice, we're in the process of demoing our main bathroom and rid the bath tub. Do you have aby other pics of the shower?

I can take any photos you like. What are you looking for?
 

Yldboyz

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We're looking for ideas for the shower, and what you have is pretty much what we've envisioned. i.e. larger tiles, black trim, etc... I wanting to see picture from a few steps back, shower trim, and shower niche. What type of drain did you use and what are your shower dimensions?
 

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This has been a pretty cool story, you sir are a crafty dude.

As an added bonus I learned what a Murphy SwichGage is! RDP never disappoints.
Thanks. The Murphy gauges are pretty slick. They also have that timeless look. I learned about them from working on these saws.
It's a work in progress. Normally the gauges are wired into a box that will kill the ignition or in this case the injection pump and turn the engine off. I'll wire the oil pressure like that but if you look at the right of the dash there is a red light/buzzer I'll wire the coolant gauge into. I don't want a hot shutdown if its overheating, just a warning.
 

wrighton

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I see a lot of cars using a K&N style intake such as this one, but without any engine compartment heat isolation (Box) and a means of cold air (Or outside air) supply. In this case heat exacerbated by headers.
I mention this based on experience when I ran a similar intake on my truck years ago.
Pulled into a gas station in Palm Springs, filled up and as I went to leave, the truck barely had enough power to accelerate at all while I was running up the freeway on-ramp. Fortunately by the time I'd reached the end of the long on-ramp, the latent engine compartment heat had been cleared sufficiently so power kept improving more rapidly.

I contacted K&N and they were adamant they'd encountered no similar problem during their testing, but admitted, they had not tested in the more extreme (108 degrees) temps.

Once again around San Diego, no similar problems. So now curious if I'd just experienced a fluke glitch, that next Saturday my wife and I drove it down to Borrego Springs where it was a similarly hot day. Pulled over by a park and sat there for a bit with the engine off. Maybe 10 minutes max. Then re-started and sure enough as I went to drive it away, I'd lost almost all power. Again as I continued to drive, it slowly cleared.

I called K&N, they offered a full refund, they paid for the return shipping and I got my refund, having learned a lesson.

My Whippled 5.0 Ford powered Miata had a similar open K&N setup, BUT, I'd had the hood louvered and cold air was ducted directly at the filter.
It absolutely is not doing it any favors , but a while 125 hp , it doesn’t have much to loose. Washington state West side of the mountains don’t have too many hot days to contend with
 

Boatymcboatface

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For some reason the guy before me took the stock taillight of ad replaced it with this mess!
6DE57615-7A09-42DC-AA4F-C67A872DDCCF.jpeg

It’s got part of a cutting board and some weird rubber grommets and small turn signals and had a different taillight attached to it but that’s in the middle of the Mojave desert now.




What it looked like after about 300 miles in the desert.

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So once the trip was over and got all the bike prep done oil, filter, chain lube and wash I got to work on the wiring that was shredded.
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Back to stock taillight and will be working on the turn signals this afternoon.
 

nameisbond

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I was working on our annual audit and very busy. Now working on drill permits so we can drill late spring or early summer.

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spectras only

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Friend of mine got this new simulator. We can crash our Radicals without fear, haha.
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Radicals ready to roll, but the weather doesn't cooperate, raining right now, possibly all weekend.
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:(
The F1000 is also eager to get out on the track
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TPC

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Buggs and Strap On carburetor.
Easy to clean and adjust,, a MFSOB to get to in a universal mount set-up.

5 minutes to service but awkward and hard to get at so an hour to get the fucker off and back on.

Then the Honda lawn mower, remove the transmission and emery cloth/polish the shafts so it can be pulled backwards. Yeah,,,, that's the fix otherwise the shafts hang up on the support bushings and the real wheels lock up.

I was waiting for the sun to rise watching You Tube cooking shorts before starting.

Blindsided me suddenly and ruined my day when I clicked the arrow expecting another food prep video and a distressing video pops up instead.

Parents actually post the last moments of their dieing child’s life in the hospital.

20 seconds into a one minute video before I realized what it was and I switched it off.
I’ve been shook up and not myself all day.
Going to bother me for a long time.
 
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Your ad here

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Replacing a broken pillow block bearing. Its behind the wheel. Typically I just cut the wheels off and install new ones. These ones are in good shape so I'm gonna reuse. Its held in by a taper lock. Made a pulley and modified it as I removed the wheel.
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wrighton

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Nice...should have dropped a B16 or B18 DOHC in it while you were doing a swap...
I agree , we bought it with the swap and I was trying to keep it simple, but with a lot of learning along the way , time , and money , I probably could of k swapped it
 

lbhsbz

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I see a lot of cars using a K&N style intake such as this one, but without any engine compartment heat isolation (Box) and a means of cold air (Or outside air) supply. In this case heat exacerbated by headers.
I mention this based on experience when I ran a similar intake on my truck years ago.
Pulled into a gas station in Palm Springs, filled up and as I went to leave, the truck barely had enough power to accelerate at all while I was running up the freeway on-ramp. Fortunately by the time I'd reached the end of the long on-ramp, the latent engine compartment heat had been cleared sufficiently so power kept improving more rapidly.

I contacted K&N and they were adamant they'd encountered no similar problem during their testing, but admitted, they had not tested in the more extreme (108 degrees) temps.

Once again around San Diego, no similar problems. So now curious if I'd just experienced a fluke glitch, that next Saturday my wife and I drove it down to Borrego Springs where it was a similarly hot day. Pulled over by a park and sat there for a bit with the engine off. Maybe 10 minutes max. Then re-started and sure enough as I went to drive it away, I'd lost almost all power. Again as I continued to drive, it slowly cleared.

I called K&N, they offered a full refund, they paid for the return shipping and I got my refund, having learned a lesson.

My Whippled 5.0 Ford powered Miata had a similar open K&N setup, BUT, I'd had the hood louvered and cold air was ducted directly at the filter.
I plug in and monitor stuff quite a bit on the road…while I’m not dumb enough to install any K&N garbage, I’ve seen IATs north of 140 degrees and things still ran just fine. I’d venture to guess you had something else going on.
 

ChrisV

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I agree , we bought it with the swap and I was trying to keep it simple, but with a lot of learning along the way , time , and money , I probably could of k swapped it
K swap Da world
 

Taboma

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I plug in and monitor stuff quite a bit on the road…while I’m not dumb enough to install any K&N garbage, I’ve seen IATs north of 140 degrees and things still ran just fine. I’d venture to guess you had something else going on.
I'm fairly certain, that on a 110 + degree day and engine off with the hood closed while refueling and pee stop, IATs , latent heat both under the hood and within the aluminum intake tube from the air cleaner to the MAS, were rather excessive. I'd imagine easily exceeding 140s.
Once I started to roll, the engine started to rapidly improve, by the time I'd driven a very short distance and started to merge into the freeway lanes, it had cleared.
This event had never previously occurred despite numerous summer trips to Havasu with the stock box and I was only able to repeat it with the K&N setup, in similar 110 degree weather conditions where I was able to duplicate that same issue.
Once I removed the openly exposed K&N and re-installed the stock filter box which had an OSA intake and non-metallic intake tube, I was never able to re-duplicate it on even far hotter Havasu days.
 

4Waters

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Austin Healy with a 350sbc and a muncie 4spd. Shut it off on Friday and won't start today.

Has fuel and 12v to the coil spark out of the coil while cranking but none at the plugs. Cap and rotor look good but the rotor has 150+ ohms of resistance, and the coil post in the cap has 70 ohms of resistance. Customer is going to get a new cap and rotor.

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TPC

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Working at and on the river trailer.

23 years old and the faucets have got so brittle they crumble and detonate when ya turn them on.
So replaced them all.
Kitchen,. bath, shower, outdoor shower,, all changed out. Cheap and fast. Not even $40 for the whole project.

Some of the furniture legs the same thing.
Amazing that I called the chair MFG in the 909 and the chick answering the phone sent me all new chair legs, and spare legs,,,, for free.

This 23 years later.
It's all taken apart and put together with a hammer.

Then went to tackle the roof Air Conditioner to replace the fan motor and capacitor.
I fixed many of these in the past and they are super-easy to fix. Just like a window unit but with more room for your hands to work inside.
The only problem may be removing the cowling/shroud..

The 4 dissimilar metal-to-unit screws holding the shroud on can seize or strip and be very difficult to remove.

Hammer-driver and if that doesn't work,, then its grind them off. Don't want to damage the shroud they are $200 + $40 shipping to replace. Easy to damage the shroud. It's why you replace the stainless screws with a 1 1/4" stainless washer in case you have to grind them off again they'll help protect the shroud.

So I'll have to return to the river to complete the job. Probably Take the TH and fix the river trailer in the EC storage.

I have a new AC unit I could replace it with but figuring how to get the unit on the roof by myself is still rolling through my pea size brain.
The kids don't come down anymore and I can't ask the wife to muscle fuck this job with me.
I'll think of something.

$1400 unit on a $500 trailer. I'll try the fan motor change-out first.
 

ltbaney1

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Finally finished this little relay box. Gonna be getting installed real soon.

View attachment 1222077
looks good, i know you have put a good amount time into this box, but i see 4 places where wires change color? i was always taught thats a nono, is there a reason? not trying to nit pick, just want to learn.
 

Backlash

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Sorry, I got sidetracked in another thread watching a Rookie spin out of control...... Now where were we. 🤣
 

rivermobster

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looks good, i know you have put a good amount time into this box, but i see 4 places where wires change color? i was always taught thats a nono, is there a reason? not trying to nit pick, just want to learn.

I can't control what color wires "came with" the relay plug. They are water proof relays, so I got what I got and that's that!

I could pull the connectors/wires out of each relay and change them, but there really is no point as all the color changes are inside the box.

The wires going to the components are really the ones that matter. And they should be Mercury harness correct.

As asked @Shlbyntro to verify, as I'm not a certified mercury marine mechanic.
 

Shlbyntro

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I can't control what color wires "came with" the relay plug. They are water proof relays, so I got what I got and that's that!

I could pull the connectors/wires out of each relay and change them, but there really is no point as all the color changes are inside the box.

The wires going to the components are really the ones that matter. And they should be Mercury harness correct.

As asked @Shlbyntro to verify, as I'm not a certified mercury marine mechanic.

its common. What you @ltbaney1 see is the standard color code for the base connectors for the common 5pole relay. it is way more feasible to connect to than press the connectors out. Ive done it, but I wouldnt dare in a DCB 🤪

the main thing you dont want is wires changing color mid run wear it might not be seen. 2-3" inches from the end of the run wear it can all clearly be seen is not the end of the world. just have to ask yourself how bad your OCD is 😁 My only hard rule is a ground is never red/orange and a hot(12v) is never black.
 

ltbaney1

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its common. What you @ltbaney1 see is the standard color code for the base connectors for the common 5pole relay. it is way more feasible to connect to than press the connectors out. Ive done it, but I wouldnt dare in a DCB 🤪

the main thing you dont want is wires changing color mid run wear it might not be seen. 2-3" inches from the end of the run wear it can all clearly be seen is not the end of the world. just have to ask yourself how bad your OCD is 😁 My only hard rule is a ground is never red/orange and a hot(12v) is never black.
that makes sense. ive chased wires that change 3-4 colors in a run that drives me nuts. i figured in this situation with a custom box there was a better reason than "thats what color i had".
 

Wheeler

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Austin Healy with a 350sbc and a muncie 4spd. Shut it off on Friday and won't start today.

Has fuel and 12v to the coil spark out of the coil while cranking but none at the plugs. Cap and rotor look good but the rotor has 150+ ohms of resistance, and the coil post in the cap has 70 ohms of resistance. Customer is going to get a new cap and rotor.

View attachment 1222072
Very nice! Here's one a friend built many years ago.


Shelby-Healey1_zps677db599.jpg







Carroll Shelby approached Donald Healey with a plan to install a small block Chevrolet motor into the Healey. The proposal was nixed by British Motor Corporation and Chevrolet and CS turned to Ford and AC to give birth to the Cobra.
According to John Morton's book,"Inside Shelby American: Wrenching and Racing with Carroll Shelby in the 1960s" the Healey played a part in the history of the 427 Cobra as well. According to Morton, Phil Remington gave Ted Sutton the job of installing the 427 into the Cobra because he was impressed with the job Sutton had done installing a small block Ford in his Austin-Healey. Sutton said the task of fitting the 427 into the Cobra was very similar to installing the 289 into the Healey.
Apparently the Sutton Healey still survives.
 

coolchange

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Flashback

I built this same model 27 years ago for my Dad's 60th birthday. Are you going to run it or just keep as a decoration ?
So cool you made that for your dad. It’s a very involved piece. So involved, the thought of putting it in the water alone gives me anxiety lol. Static decor only!
On coat seven of lacquer now. See if I can finish it on this spurt of inspiration!
 

Nanu/Nanu

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Damn, those must be some Super Heavy Duty Tyewraps strapping the snapped pole to that temp support pole :oops:
Zip ties, haha jk there was enough weight from the phone and it was balanced enough couple rope slings seemed to do the trick.
 

rivermobster

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that makes sense. ive chased wires that change 3-4 colors in a run that drives me nuts. i figured in this situation with a custom box there was a better reason than "thats what color i had".

Changing colors is definitely a bozo no-no. In fact...

Even having a splice or connector mid run is also a Very bad idea.

Wires should only be connected/terminated right at the component being connected.

Example: Ages ago (like in the 80's) Lincoln-Mercury put a ground splice connection, against the firewall, behind the engine, in the worst place possible to access.

That was super fun to diagnose/repair/locate when it started to come apart. 😡
 

spectras only

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My buddy and I used to ride together on our brit bikes back in 1989 till 1992, Fast forward today, I still ride my 1958 Matchless 500 single I built from a basket case in 1989. My bike still looks the same today, his needs a total going over, since he parked the bike in 1993, Today he gave me the bike to restore it for myself. I probably won't ride it anytime soon, hence track is open and I will drive till the end of October. Pretty stoked to have the 650CC Matchless , since it has faster top end to keep up with other buddies with their Harleys.;)
The 500cc Single
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The 1961 G12 650 twin, sans mufflers. He had siameze two into one setup and now back to original twin pipes. I'll get the mufflers from Feked Classic Bikes in England. 👍
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BHC Vic

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Everything will look much better once the professional lighting is on it but I’m done. Supposed to look like the flyer. I needed more time but that’s what they got
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Taboma

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My buddy and I used to ride together on our brit bikes back in 1989 till 1992, Fast forward today, I still ride my 1958 Matchless 500 single I built from a basket case in 1989. My bike still looks the same today, his needs a total going over, since he parked the bike in 1993, Today he gave me the bike to restore it for myself. I probably won't ride it anytime soon, hence track is open and I will drive till the end of October. Pretty stoked to have the 650CC Matchless , since it has faster top end to keep up with other buddies with their Harleys.;)
The 500cc Single
View attachment 1224989

The 1961 G12 650 twin, sans mufflers. He had siameze two into one setup and now back to original twin pipes. I'll get the mufflers from Feked Classic Bikes in England. 👍
View attachment 1224990
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So he or somebody drilled holes in the pipe, is the end capped or have a baffle stuck in it ? Very cool bikes !! Brit bikes --- cardboard, check 😁
 
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