Building water ski's

[whiteworks]

As some of you know I am a wood worker by trade, When I am lucky I land projects that I am passionate about other times not so much (just work) Any ways I would like to do some experimental projects and building a ski sounds like a cool project. I am not looking to build the next best ski but more so something that is absolutely beautiful to look at and potentially rideable. For starters I am thinking just really cool wall pieces and maybe some off shoot furniture for river pads. Now heres the deal I have no doubt that I can build some bitchen looking stuff, it would be cool if it was actually a functional ski. So here is what I am looking for.
1. construction techniques
2. proper glues
3. time tested wood species
4. the proper way to set the ski up for bindings in case it is actually ridden
5. anything else I dont know.
The reality is if I am passionate about something the results always turn out cool, I have a few ideas for some cool furniture but the way I work is one thing always leads to another, so I gotta start somewhere.

 

[obnoxious001]

Hey Dylan

When I was a kid, one of our family friends had some kind of press fixture to laminate the ski and get the proper curve in it. His son may still have some of the knowledge, since he was a rep for Vogue water skis about the time I was learning to ski.

Bob Maha would be a wealth of information if he wanted to pass any of it on to you. I will give some thought to who else knows.

If you could make something similar to the Maha 360 at an affordable price, I would think you could sell some, but probably not smart to talk that direction with Bob if you want him to help you.

 

[Riverbound]

I think I might still have some old wooden blanks at my place. I know we used a couple as decor in the house. but if I can find one I wouldnt mind lending it to you to get a starting point (they are all old skis fromt he 60's that my Grandfather rode).

 

[Yellowboat]

your standard "bent wood lamination" using epoxy is your best bet for making the blank.

unless you have access to hot press/ sonic press.

 

[obnoxious001]

Another thought crossed my mind. You might be able to talk to Mike Bemis, not sure if he would have a problem sharing or not. He is up in Arrowhead, might be able to go up there for a couple of hours and see if you approach him right. You can drop my name if you think it would get you anywhere.

 

[Retired Member]

I visited Fred William's ski shop, in Australia, a couple years ago. He had a press and mold, that was, if I remember correctly 60k lbs. Thats how they made the bend and kept the ridgedness of the ski. The ski's were then flush cut from a template for the shape. Then, they were run through a planer, with speacil cutters, that put the concave in the bottom. Next they were routed for the the edge details, sanded and prepped for resin/epoxy.

 

[whiteworks]

I talked with Bemis at Puddingstone, he was pretty cool guy. I am not looking to get into the business of building race skis, gotta enough stuff on my plate already. More so interested in pursuing a passion (wood work/art) rideable art would be ideal. As far as knocking off a Maha thats not the way I operate, the thing that has gotten me furthest in life is integrity. I have way to much respect for the time these guys have spent mastering there craft and product to be some dick wad that comes along and try's to weasel into something these fellows have spent years working at. The idea of making something that is more than just something to look at has a certain apeal for me. Just thinking out loud on this one but how cool would it be to make a ski and then take it for a ride.

 

[RiverDave]

60k. Seems a bit excessive? Shit man I can squash pennies with my press and it's only 5k?

RD

 

[Oz Dude]

Check your PM's :thumbsup

Oz

 

[obnoxious001]

I talked with Bemis at Puddingstone, he was pretty cool guy. I am not looking to get into the business of building race skis, gotta enough stuff on my plate already. More so interested in pursuing a passion (wood work/art) rideable art would be ideal. As far as knocking off a Maha thats not the way I operate, the thing that has gotten me furthest in life is integrity. I have way to much respect for the time these guys have spent mastering there craft and product to be some dick wad that comes along and try's to weasel into something these fellows have spent years working at. The idea of making something that is more than just something to look at has a certain apeal for me. Just thinking out loud on this one but how cool would it be to make a ski and then take it for a ride.

Not a copy, but something that would be similarly usable. He does the "art" thing too. I am saying a you could do a squareback wakejumper deal that someone could actually ski on.

Bemis makes a wood squareback, Brad used to also when they were in business (as far as I know they are done).

 

[Yellowboat]

60k. Seems a bit excessive? Shit man I can squash pennies with my press and it's only 5k?

RD

for the wood working indusrty 60k lbs is actually about the starting point. its not uncommon to see a press in the 100 ton range.

 

[Oz Dude]

Hi All,

I sent the info below to Whiteworks in a PM cause I wasn't sure if he was thinking about turning this into a side business. No real proprietry secrets here but my father used to build waterskis so I have some experience in it.

I will preface this with the fact that the last skis that were built was when I was about 12 and I'm a lot bloody older than that now so much of this is by memory.

It should provide a solid starting point though. The skis always worked well and were quite solid. I know there would still be quite a few around in the back of sheds and garages even today. Mine actually has a nice inlaid stripe in it and my name in it which is cool

Oh, and I just remembered what he called them - Starline Tunnel. Wow, my memory really is kickin ass today :thumbsup

How to build waterskis:

The jig:

You need to make a jig. Basically an upper and a lower. Each piece will be made using a boxed outer frame with the curve you want cut into the leading edge, with a series of cross ribs along the length of the box. The running surface should be made of 3mm board and glued on. Use a series of flat head tack nails to secure to each rib and the frame. The outer running surface of each jig should be made of 18mm MDF or HMR (I hope you use the same terms).

The curve can be anything you want but probably easiest to start with an existing ski and make your jigs off that. Remember - the ski isn't flat along it's length, rather a very slight curve.

When all the material is laid into the lower part of the jig, you put the upper on and use several long cramps and tighten down so as to apply equal and constant pressure. 48 -72 hours drying time and you have a blank.

The ski:

The ski will initially be about 1/2" wider than the finished piece (at the widest point of the body) and an inch or so longer at each end. This will give you sufficient material to shape with.

Sheets of single layer marine ply are used and laid in a cross hatch pattern on top of each other as you build up the ski. I'll have to look at my ski at home but from memory it is 9 layers in all. The single layer of ply will conform to the shape of your jigs as well.

Here's where my memory gets a little fuzzy but I believe you soak each layer in water. Then, lay the first sheet into the jig, then you use a glue called urea formaldahide (I'm pretty sure that's what it was called - there is probably a modern less-toxic equivalent) applied with a brush to completely coat the upper surface of the ply. Then you lay a layer of newspaper (sounds wierd but that's how he did it) and make sure the glue soaks into the paper. Then another application of the glue, and then the next layer of ply (this time laid "sideways"), then more glue, newspaper, glue, and then back to ply laid "lengthways", and so on and so forth until you build up to the top layer of the ski.

I believe the newspaper assisted with the layers binding together. All I can remember is helping tear it off where it stuck out each side of the layers of the ski once the blank was released from the jig.

Once all together, the ski is cramped and left as I said for 48-72 hours. Once dry you now have a curved blank ready to work with.

You have a fair degree of freedom as to how you can shape but a slow taper to the rear of the ski will cut through the water better. Similarly, the nose can be to a point or a curve - up to you...

Now - the concave:

Using a table-mounted circular saw, bring the blade down so that at it's azimuth it is only 4mm above the table. You will need to adjust your fence so that you can run the ski blank at approx 80 degrees to the side of the blade. Work slowly and smoothly and it will cut a nice, neat concave in the ski. Play with blade size and depther to retain strength but also create different width concaves. work from the back of the ski forward. As you get to the curve in the nose, let the blade tail off until there is no more contact.

Now you have a rough-worked blank. Bevel each edge (play with size and shape here too as it will make a huge difference to the performance of the ski). Get out your sanding block and work it into a finished blank. 4 coats of water-resistant urethane and it's done...

Interesting and curious things can be done with timber skis. One I have at home was made by a friend of my father's (my father built him a set of jigs and showed him how to do it). It has 2 narrow tunnels that run side by side and it's the only ski I've ever seen with it. I used it for a few years and it worked quite well...

My father also once told me about a race ski he made for a guy. It was a longer than the social skis (his jig was also longer-he just never used all of it) and it was noticably thicker for added rigidity. He told me he used a round file and cut a series of scallops into each side of the ski down the full length as he had a theory about it. Apparently it was a bitch up till about 40mph and then it smoothed out. If I remember correctly, the guy who wore it won the Sydney Bridge to Bridge race one year in the mid to late 70's and said it was the best ski he'd ever been on).

Oz

 

[coz]

Dylan, another good thing you have going for you is the internet :thumbsup you can find step by step plans for just about anything on the internet these days :thumbsup can't wait to see the build pics :thumbsup hurry up and get it done by october, RD needs a ski for the big race

 

[randyjet]

I HAVE BUILT SEVERAL USED AN OLD WATERHEATER TO STEAM THE WOOD USED A HEAT SET EPOXY TO GLUE THE LMAINATES TOGETHER AND PUT IN A PRESS FOR SHAPE USED BIG CLAMPS THATS ALL. HAD STEEL PINS TO ALIGN THE TWO HALFS. AS FAR AS THE CONCAVE IN THE BOTTOM USE A 2X4 CLAMPED AT ANGEL ON TABLE SAW AND GRADUALLY RAISE BLADE TILL YOU GET WHAT YOU WANT WITH DEPTH AND RUN OUT IT WORKS REALLY GOOD THEN TRIM THE OUTSIDE TO THE SHAPE YOU WANT( ADD WINGS ETC.) YOU CAN BUY A FIN FROM ANY SKI MANUFACTURER AND THE SKI WILL WORK WELL.

 

[whiteworks]

1.Any one have a picture of a jig?

2.How much rocker?

3.Length of Ski?

4.Can someone explain basic ski shapes to me?

 

[coz]

4.Can someone explain basic ski shapes to me?

Depends on what you're going after, racing, slolom, or free skiing like us

 

[Halvecto]

Bemis makes a wood squareback, Brad used to also when they were in business (as far as I know they are done).

I think Bemo may have the old Brad mold. Some of those Brad skis have beautiful exotic wood in them and are heavy. They are built like a tank.

 

[boat527]

These are pretty cool too.. Arrowhead guy, I haven't ridden one but would like to.

 

[obnoxious001]

I think Bemo may have the old Brad mold. Some of those Brad skis have beautiful exotic wood in them and are heavy. They are built like a tank.

I always assumed he had his own, since he has been making skis so long.

 

[hawkes24]

howardflat is the grandson of vogue and he still has all of the old stuff talk to him he still knows quite a bit about making skis

 

[obnoxious001]

howardflat is the grandson of vogue and he still has all of the old stuff talk to him he still knows quite a bit about making skis

Good call, I had PM'ed the same info to Dylan.

I still have my first Vogue concave made my Sam Romano tucked away in my garage.

 

[River Lynchmob]

These are pretty cool too.. Arrowhead guy, I haven't ridden one but would like to.

Are these the skis that Billy Johnson is building?

howardflat is the grandson of vogue and he still has all of the old stuff talk to him he still knows quite a bit about making skis

Vague Orbitor was / is my favorite ski I would love to get a hold of one.

 

[whiteworks]

Howardflat jump in and help a brotha out.

Another thing I am wondering is what material to use for a finish? lacquer?

 

[boat527]

Yes,

I guess he will make them up to 70 in ( I have heard)

http://johnson-customs.com/

D

 

[Retired Member]

Howardflat jump in and help a brotha out.

Another thing I am wondering is what material to use for a finish? lacquer?

I think most use epoxies. I'd bet a LP would work also. You should try and make one out of Sitka Spruce, the same shape a Vertical Air (just move the bindings forward about 1 1/2"). HO no longer makes them, so it wouldn't be stealing anyone's design.

 

[whiteworks]

I think most use epoxies. I'd bet a LP would work also. You should try and make one out of Sitka Spruce, the same shape a Vertical Air (just move the bindings forward about 1 1/2"). HO no longer makes them, so it wouldn't be stealing anyone's design.

What is LP? Sitka Spruce, I imagine that would be pretty light weight. Why move the bindings forward? and While were on the subject of bindings, how are they attached? Pretty sure there not just screwed to the wood. I am thinking some sort of insert would be needed. As soon as I figure out WTF a mold looks like I will get started on something.

 

[whiteworks]

Interesting strength info on Sitka Spruce and alternatives wood species for aircraft.

http://www.hainesengineering.com/rhaines/sitka.htm

 

[obnoxious001]

What is LP? Sitka Spruce, I imagine that would be pretty light weight. Why move the bindings forward? and While were on the subject of bindings, how are they attached? Pretty sure there not just screwed to the wood. I am thinking some sort of insert would be needed. As soon as I figure out WTF a mold looks like I will get started on something.

The Sitka Spruce is light weight.

Bindings do get screwed directly into the wood. Most racers use some silicone to help limit vibrations and adhere the plate to the wood.

Binding position has to do with the balance point of the ski, and some skiers may like their bindings positioned somewhat different than others. Skiing wrapped may position your body in a different point over the ski, depending on an individual's particular stance.

 

[whiteworks]

OK boys and girls I now have a jig design, Thanks OZ. So what should I make? After doing a little research I am excited about the Sitka Spruce. Dennis, you suggested something like an old HO, What is it that you like about that ski? As well your going to be the test rider on these things so your input will be used, any one else that wants to throw there 2 cents in is welcome. The jig style I will be using for now is very easy to make and inexpensive so making different ones will not be to much of an issue. the Sitka spruce however isn't cheap so I am thinking about laying up the first ones out of something more economical, no sense is waisting good lumber if the shape/rocker/size isn't right. Once some of the kinks are worked out we will break out the good wood and I have some really bitchin cosmetic ideas for the for the top layer.

What glue should be used in the lamination process?

 

[Retired Member]

OK boys and girls I now have a jig design, Thanks OZ. So what should I make? After doing a little research I am excited about the Sitka Spruce. Dennis, you suggested something like an old HO, What is it that you like about that ski? As well your going to be the test rider on these things so your input will be used, any one else that wants to throw there 2 cents in is welcome. The jig style I will be using for now is very easy to make and inexpensive so making different ones will not be to much of an issue. the Sitka spruce however isn't cheap so I am thinking about laying up the first ones out of something more economical, no sense is waisting good lumber if the shape/rocker/size isn't right. Once some of the kinks are worked out we will break out the good wood and I have some really bitchin cosmetic ideas for the for the top layer.

What glue should be used in the lamination process?

I have a Sitka Spruce Maha 360, it weight 6.5lbs without bindings. Maha stopped making the Sitka-lite do to people breaking them, I personally broke one after clearing the wake, what a painfull landing that was.. I would laminate the top and bottom with Sitka and have the middle layer with a stronger heavier wood (just for strength).

The HO Vertical Air is a hot dog ski. I have one, but a wood one would be awesome. They are wider and shorter then most skis. I can get mine back to make the shape template. Do to their size, you don't have to ski quite as fast to get the ski to release from the water during jumping. Less speed, less chance of injury upon re-entry.

As far as glue, we used a 2 part glue that was like molases when we were bending stair rail. Not sure if that stuf was water proof or not as it was water based, but once it got one your hands and dried, it would have to just wear off, no cleaning it off.

 

[Riverbound]

If you are gonna make a Vert air clone...... I want one!

 

[whiteworks]

I have a Sitka Spruce Maha 360, it weight 6.5lbs without bindings. Maha stopped making the Sitka-lite do to people breaking them, I personally broke one after clearing the wake, what a painfull landing that was.. I would laminate the top and bottom with Sitka and have the middle layer with a stronger heavier wood (just for strength).

The HO Vertical Air is a hot dog ski. I have one, but a wood one would be awesome. They are wider and shorter then most skis. I can get mine back to make the shape template. Do to their size, you don't have to ski quite as fast to get the ski to release from the water during jumping. Less speed, less chance of injury upon re-entry.

As far as glue, we used a 2 part glue that was like molases when we were bending stair rail. Not sure if that stuf was water proof or not as it was water based, but once it got one your hands and dried, it would have to just wear off, no cleaning it off.

Sounds like a good starting point, you tell me exactly what you want and we'll have a go at it. What are you thoughts on carbon fiber?

 

[Retired Member]

Sounds like a good starting point, you tell me exactly what you want and we'll have a go at it. What are you thoughts on carbon fiber?

Carbon fiber has a lot of flex, unless it is laid up to have strength (if that makes sense). I have never been a fan of CF ski's they ride very high in the water. Carbon fiber works well in boats and is very light, but walk across the deck of one of those and watch the deck flex. Sure you can design cf to be strong for a ski but there would be much added weight do to internal bracing.

I know you're not looking to start a business doing this, but I if you pull this off, you could sell fair number of a Vert Air style ski. They are highly sought after.

 

[RiverDave]

Dumb Question here.. (keep in mind I know shit about skis)

Why nut run a thin billet plate up the center of the ski and use it to attach the bindings etc? The edges of the plate could be a little thicker to act as "ribs" for strength? I would think the whole plate could come in at less then a pd if done right. With the plate you could have multiple locations as well to put the bindings etc.. flip flop for right foot forward of vice versa?

Wakeboards are done this way.. Pat over at Cutting Edge used to make a ton of em.

RD

 

[River Lynchmob]

Carbon fiber has a lot of flex, unless it is laid up to have strength (if that makes sense). I have never been a fan of CF ski's they ride very high in the water. Carbon fiber works well in boats and is very light, but walk across the deck of one of those and watch the deck flex. Sure you can design cf to be strong for a ski but there would be much added weight do to internal bracing.

I know you're not looking to start a business doing this, but I if you pull this off, you could sell fair number of a Vert Air style ski. They are highly sought after.

I too would LOVE a Vert Air or a copy of a Vogue Orbitor :thumbsup

 

[obnoxious001]

I too would LOVE a Vert Air or a copy of a Vogue Orbitor :thumbsup

What did this "Orbitor" look like John? It's something special, different than their squareback?

 

[River Lynchmob]

What did this "Orbitor" look like John? It's something special, different than their squareback?

Very similar to a Vert Air in length and the tail was similar but it had the Vogue tripple fluted bottom and was wood. The last one I skied on was years ago at lake mead behind a 27 hallett and it was a blast.

 

[whiteworks]

If you are gonna make a Vert air clone...... I want one!

If I can get this figured out, we will make it happen

Carbon fiber has a lot of flex, unless it is laid up to have strength (if that makes sense). I have never been a fan of CF ski's they ride very high in the water. Carbon fiber works well in boats and is very light, but walk across the deck of one of those and watch the deck flex. Sure you can design cf to be strong for a ski but there would be much added weight do to internal bracing.

I know you're not looking to start a business doing this, but I if you pull this off, you could sell fair number of a Vert Air style ski. They are highly sought after.

I have a buddy that has a carbon fiber business, does mitlitary stuff. was thinking mabe a layer or 2 of carbon fiber in a sitka spruce ski might add some tensil stregth. As far as selling these things, I really would lke to keep it on the fun side and play around with it.

Dumb Question here.. (keep in mind I know shit about skis)

Why nut run a thin billet plate up the center of the ski and use it to attach the bindings etc? The edges of the plate could be a little thicker to act as "ribs" for strength? I would think the whole plate could come in at less then a pd if done right. With the plate you could have multiple locations as well to put the bindings etc.. flip flop for right foot forward of vice versa?

Wakeboards are done this way.. Pat over at Cutting Edge used to make a ton of em.

RD

Interesting take, once again this is all expiermental fun so I would be into messing around with the concept (if you are). deffinately gonna need some skegs made.

I too would LOVE a Vert Air or a copy of a Vogue Orbitor :thumbsup

Sounds like the vert air clone is gonna be a starting point, so you may end up with one.

Now lets stay on track here, gotta figure out the glue and wood species. Dont want these things coming apart.

 

[Retired Member]

Dumb Question here.. (keep in mind I know shit about skis)

Why nut run a thin billet plate up the center of the ski and use it to attach the bindings etc? The edges of the plate could be a little thicker to act as "ribs" for strength? I would think the whole plate could come in at less then a pd if done right. With the plate you could have multiple locations as well to put the bindings etc.. flip flop for right foot forward of vice versa?

Wakeboards are done this way.. Pat over at Cutting Edge used to make a ton of em.

RD

It's been done before, they had problems laminting the wood to the metal causing the wood to delam at the front of the plate, which inturn caused failure at the front of the plate.

 

[RiverDave]

It's been done before, they had problems laminting the wood to the metal causing the wood to delam at the front of the plate, which inturn caused failure at the front of the plate.

Can't you through bolt it and bondo the heads of the flat head screws? (again dumb questions I know?)

RD

 

[obnoxious001]

This may be a stupid question, but don't these resemble the Vertical Air shape already?

 

[Retired Member]

Can't you through bolt it and bondo the heads of the flat head screws? (again dumb questions I know?)



RD

Sure you could, but why put a hole all the way through the ski instead of 2/3 the way?

This may be a stupid question, but don't these resemble the Vertical Air shape already?

Sort of, but not nearly as light. "Resembles", not the same shape. Although they may be real close. I have never seen one of these in person.

 

[RiverDave]

to through bolt it? That way your not tapping wood, but clamping it kinda deal?

RD

 

[Retired Member]

to through bolt it? That way your not tapping wood, but clamping it kinda deal?

RD

Also weakening the wood? :hmm

 

[Howardflat]

Wow! Where the f*ck have i been in this thread. my knowledge is minimal but i have enough to get me in trouble. i have everything but the ski presses. i have wood, concave jigs, routers, bindings, fins, router jigs for the shape, everything but the press. also have some good ideas on ski design.

 

[River Lynchmob]

Wow! Where the f*ck have i been in this thread. my knowledge is minimal but i have enough to get me in trouble. i have everything but the ski presses. i have wood, concave jigs, routers, bindings, fins, router jigs for the shape, everything but the press. also have some good ideas on ski design.

If you have everything do you have an Orbitor laying around?

 

[Halvecto]

This may be a stupid question, but don't these resemble the Vertical Air shape already?

Yes and no. I have a 70" Airstick (only one season) and a Vert Air. The 70 Airstick is a Cadillac of a ski that is a smooth jumper. It will turn, but much more of a carve than the VA. The Vert Air is a ton of fun, but more work compared to my Airstick. The Airstick has a little more of the parabolic shape to it, similar to a snow ski with a beveled edge. It skis similar to the Maha 360, but most 360's are not 70 inches, so it is a very smooth and an easy ride.

Billy can customize the ski for your taste. His shop is up in Cedar Glen. He just opened a Mountain Bike/Water Sports shop in Cedar Glen. It is called Wake and Wheel. If you have ever seen BJ ski, you know it is a ski made by someone who knows.

 

[whiteworks]

Wow! Where the f*ck have i been in this thread. my knowledge is minimal but i have enough to get me in trouble. i have everything but the ski presses. i have wood, concave jigs, routers, bindings, fins, router jigs for the shape, everything but the press. also have some good ideas on ski design.

At this stage any info would be very helpful. Today I went over to my neighbors and checked out a few of his old race skis (Andy Clarks) the construction design was very impressive to say the least. They appeared to be mahogany or possibly teak. It was hard to tell as only one of the skis did not have a coating on the side. anyways it looked like they were solid for the most part, (not several layers laminated together) If I had to guess I would say that they were steamed and then put in a press. The top layer was Formica and the bottom of the skis had a "speed coat" as he called it. Also there was a stringer 1/4" top layer (red top layer in the pic below) that ran from the tail of the ski to way past the front binding. this appeared to be for strength. I assume that when these things break it happens right in front of the front binding. The tip was sliced with a band saw right down the middle and a piece the same width as the blade was then inserted before lamination. I assume this makes bending the tip up much easier and will also hold the bend better than just a steamed bend. There were some aspects of these skis construction that I would definitely like to incorporate in a play ski. I think that the wood will have some bounce back when released from the mold so that will need to be compensated for in the initial mold shape. Here is a really shitty pic of the skis. BTW these skis are 40+ years old.

 

[Oz Dude]

OK boys and girls I now have a jig design, Thanks OZ. So what should I make? After doing a little research I am excited about the Sitka Spruce. Dennis, you suggested something like an old HO, What is it that you like about that ski? As well your going to be the test rider on these things so your input will be used, any one else that wants to throw there 2 cents in is welcome. The jig style I will be using for now is very easy to make and inexpensive so making different ones will not be to much of an issue. the Sitka spruce however isn't cheap so I am thinking about laying up the first ones out of something more economical, no sense is waisting good lumber if the shape/rocker/size isn't right. Once some of the kinks are worked out we will break out the good wood and I have some really bitchin cosmetic ideas for the for the top layer.

What glue should be used in the lamination process?

Jebus H Chrysler - are you gonna make me do ALL the work on this?? Go back and read my original post - Urea Formaldahide... I spelt it wrong but, it's Formaldehyde.

So, I've gone troddling off across the interknob and found a starting point. The product now has a name and it's called Unibond 800. One site that I found is a supplier that sells the stuff and it's described exactly as I remember:

Unibond 800 is a modified urea resin formaldehyde two part adhesive with a translucent liquid resin and a powdered catalyst. Unibond 800 is designed to provide a rigid, gap filling glue line with faster than usual set times

http://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm <----CLICKY HERE

Note that the applications are headed by "Veneering flat and curved parts"

- Low pressure bonding
- excellent gap filling properties
- highly water resistant
- excellent open assembly time (perfect for multi-layer lamination)
- adjustable set time

Dude - THIS IS THE SHIT!!!!

Now, get to work on them jigs

Oz :thumbsup

PS I see it's now a declared carcinogen. I remember being told I couldn't go in the workshop when it was being mixed or when the lid was off the big tub of it. He never wore a respirator though. Wonder if that contributed to the lung cancer he died of? If I were you, I'd probably wear some good breathing gear!

 

[whiteworks]

Yeah I'll bet that shit will do the trick. Hey Tony you any good with a sanding block? lol